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AMERICAN SHIP WINDLASS CO. 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 

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WHOLESALE 



liiquop jWePchants 

SOLE AGENTS FOR 

RUINART CHAMPAGNE 
OLD PEPPER WHISKEY 

306 TV.ARKET STREET 



SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 



..EPHONE No '♦0' 



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B. CHAPMAN, 



AGENT AND IMPORTER 

123 CALIFORNIA ST., £ 



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J BY 
DANIEL O'CONNELL 




SAN FRANCISCO 
TPIE BANCROFT COMPANY 



Co^\>i'g)l. r^oo, bv The Banciol Company 



1891 



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tl 










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tion of the house makes our guarantee an absolute protection to customers. 

The most Correct and Complete Line of 

LEGAL BLANKS 

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We make a Specialty of SoCiety Statl07iery 

Carrvine: a Complete Line of French , 

English and American Writing Papers 

Vfe have just issued our new Sample Book of Fine Writi^ig Papers show- 
ing the different grades 2ve carry, with samples of Copper Plate Engraving, 
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Guinness' Stout 




THE "BULL DOG" BRAND 

The Best in the 
Market 



N. B.—See that every bottle has the full pic- 
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Alphabetical ivisx ok the naivles 

MENTIONED IN THIS BOOK 



I Page 

Argonaut, "the - - - - - - - 71 

Alaska Canning Co. (Ivouis Sloss & Co.) - - - 34 

Bureau, The (S. L. Pereira) - - - - - 55 

Baker & Hamilton (Agricultural Implements) - - - 162 

Boulevard, ^he (B. B. Dobbas) - - - - - 80 

Buckingham, The (M. J. Balfe) 141 Montgomery Street - - 56 

Butler, Johli - - - - - - - 87 

Beard's Wii[ery ------ 148 

Bergez Restaurant - - - - - - 25 

Carroll & CJirroll ------ 1 

Coates, C. 1 - - - - - - - 99 

Carpy, C. ^Co. ------ 71 

California House ------ 150 

Campi's Itajlian Restaurant (I. Cuenin) - - - - 73 

Clabrough, Golcher & Co. - - - - - 98 

Dunphy, W. ------ 26 

Del Monte/Hotel - - - - - - 32 

El Monte kotel ------ 24 

Erskine (Cigars) - - - - - ' ^« 

Fitschen, John ._---- 56 

Fay, Edw&rd (Grand Hotel Saloon) - - - - 149 

GundlacH& Co. (Native Wines) - - - - 140 

Ghiradelii & Co. (417 Jackson Street) - - - 'A 

Garcia, yrank (N. E. Cor. Geary and Grant Avenue) - - 64 

Goldmai, J. (Cigars) - - - - - - 141 

Gibb,ji ------- 88 

Haraszttiy, Arpad (California Champagne) - - - - 129 

Hotalii/g, A. P. (Cutter's Whiskies) . - - - 54 

Hamm^m Baths - - - - - - 160 

Inglenook Vineyard ------ 38 

JosseHn, G. M, & Co. - - - - - ' ^„\ 

Lick Mouse 



100 

Lukinfj.A. - - - - - - - 81 

Mint, pThe (E. Edwards) . . - - - »U 

Merchant's Exchange Saloon (Jas, Kearney) ' - - - 80 

Mercantile Lunch ' ' ' ' no 

Moore, Hunt & Co. - - - - - ^^ 

Meiutcke, Chas. & Co. - - - - - 17 

Maiscjn Riche (Justin Ladagnousj - - - - " oo 

McMfenomy, J. H. (California Market) - - " i 

Nap^Soda Springs - - - - - iq 

Ocealiic Steamship Co. " ' ' ' ia 

Occiiental Restaurant (P. Klein) - - - - - 16 

Pomhiery Sec (Wm. Wolff & Co.) ' " ' ' i 

Perrierjouet (W. B. Chapman) 123 California Street - - - 1 

Roederer Champagne (Macondray & Co.) 427 Market Street - 108 

RatHen & Co. - - - - " . " ' H^ 

SherWood & Sherwood (Wines, Liquors and Imported Groceries) - IbZ 

Sres(^vich, Luke G. & Co. - - - - " ' -,1? 

TayUr, H. W. (Lumber Merchant) - - - - Ibl 

TortQni (Pierre Carrere) - - - - ■ ' oi 

Wettiore, Chas. A. (The Sauternes of California) - - 88 

Wilnierding, Kellog & Co. ( Peruvian Bitters) - - ' i^o 

Wheeland & Collins (Saloon and Restaurant) - - - 158 



CONTKNTS 



PACK 

Terrier, Jouet ^: Co. (W. B. Chapman, assent, V2.1 California Street) 

luside cover 

G. M. Josselyn & Co Next to inside cover 

Carroll & Carroll 

Introductory ■^> 

Chap. I. The Science of Cooking, etc (> 

Pommery Sec (Wolff t*c Co., importers) 11 

Chap. II. Setting the Table — The Art of Drinking Wines l;) 

Charles Meinecke & Co 17 

Oceanic Steamship Co V,> 

Chap. III. An Incident of the Cuisine— The Cook's Belief in the Efficacy 

of his Art 20 

El Monte Hotel l'4 

Bergez's Restaurant 1:5 

William M. Duuphy 27 

Chap. IV. How Port Wine is Made — The Ca&a dos Lagares of the Jiinla... liS 

Hotel Del Monte.' 32 

Louis Sloss & Co ;^4 

W. W. Erskine P.5 

Chap. V. Eating and Drinking in Egypt — How the Food is Prepared, etc.. 3(1 
The Inglenook Vineyard 38 

Chap. VI. The Cuisine of Other Lands — The Bonne-Boucheof the African 

Epicure 43 

Chap. VII. The Discovery of Champagne — An Old Tradition of Reims, 

etc 50 

A. P. Hotaling & Co 54 

The Bureau 55 

John C. Fitschen 5(1 

Chap. VIII. Old English Inns — One of the Landmarks of London (>0 

Peruvian Bitters (>;> 

Chap. IX. The Wines used by the Egyptians — The Temperance Enforced 

upon Women (iS 

Luke G. Sresovich & Co 70 

■' The Argonaut " 71 

C. Carpy & Co 71 

Mercantile Lunch 72 

Canipi's Italian Restaurant 7.'J 

Chap. X. The Art of Dinner Service and carving — Some Hints About the 

Placing of Fish.. 7,''i 

Moore, Hunt ^S: Co 79 

Merchant's Exchange 80 



The Mint 80 

The Boulevard 80 

" Lukiu's," Maison Tortoni 81 

CuAP. XI. Making and Drinking of Wine — The Red and White Wines of 

the Greeks, etc 83 

Butler's 87 

Gibbs' 88 

The Sauternes of California 89 

CiiAP. XII. Rapid Eating one of the Great Evils of the American Social 

System — The Three Best Digestors, etc 92 

Clabrough, Golcher & Co 98 

"Coates"' 99 

John H. McMenomy 99 

The Lipk House ICO 

Chap. XIII. 1 Champagne Lyrics 102 

Roedeier Champagne 108 

Chap. XIV. An Attack Upon the Waiters of the Old Inn, etc 112 

Rathjeii & Co 119 

Chap. XV. Appetite Hereditary — Prohibited Meats, etc 128 

California Champagne 129 

Chap. XVIj The Diet of Biain Workers — Great Thinkers Usually Liberal 

Raters, etc 184 

J. Gv^hdlach & Co 140 

Ben.,j. Goldman 141 

Chap. XVII. Dietary of British Soldiers in Time of Peace — How Food 

May Be Adulterated 145 

John L. Beard's Winery 148 

Grand Hotel Saloon 149 

Chap. XVIII. Diet Modified by Sexes— Female Boarding Schools 152 

Wheelaud & Collins 158 

Nkpa Soda Springs IGO 

Henry W. Taylor 161 

Sherwood & Sherwood 162 

iker & Hamilton ]62 

tammam Baths 160 

lonclusiou 160 



THOS. JVIAGEE 

Real Estate Agent 

No. 2o Montgomery Street 

SAN FRANCISCO, CAT,. 




^h^ IrineV IR^^^ 



INTRODUCTORY 

^ATE CANNOT HARM ME, I have dined to-day," 
sang the poet of a period when bards were not always 
sure of that important portion of life's necessities. In 
this favored land the percentage of those who are 
compelled to omit this pleasing duty is small indeed. 
The question is not "can he dine?" but "where shall he dine,"- 
so various and inviting are the places where he may take his 
ease, au(/ tickle his appetite according to the extent of his inclin- 
ation, aiid the measure of his purse. Moreover there is a charm 
about tl/e restaurant life of San Francisco possessed by no other 
city on this continent. This is a mosaic, as it were, of the character- 
istics of the European tra/es. If the man, pondering on the dinner 
probleii. sighs for the p/ais of the Genoese, he has a dozen Italian 
restaurants to choose from, where Italian waiters will carry his 
orders to Italian cooks, who will serve him Italian dishes breathing 
those pungeut odors so delightful to the nostrils of the Latin race. 

If he would have the cuisine of France, there is a large field 
before him. Not even in Paris itself is there a greater variety 
of places where, from the minimum to the maximum sum, he may be 
served with those dishes which have made the chefs of that refined 
natioi the monarchs of the kitchen. Nor is Germany without its 
representatives. The emigrant from fatherland, as far as the affairs 
of thd inner man are concerned, has no good cause to feel homesick 
in this city. Spain, Mexico, Portugal, China and Japan — all offer 
to their wandering children those dishes which are associated with" 
the lajid of their birth. 

iii 



Do you Drink ? Then Napa Soda is your Tipple 



iv THE INNER MAN 

The progress in the refinements of the table has been most 
marked during the last decade. The result from a sanitary point 
of view is most gratifying. Dyspepsia, that universal curse of the 
American, that demon which thrives upon poorly cooked food, 
grease-impregnated, and digestion-proof, has comparatively few 
slaves in this capital of the ultimate west. If we have taught the 
Frenchman and Italian lessons in progress and free institutions, he 
has repaid us amply by instructing us how the raw material may be 
improved by art, and filled us with respect for the important science 
of the kitchen. His influence has permeated every household. We 
have been enlightened upon points of preparation of meats before 
their subjection to the fire, and we have been imbued with a whole- 
some reverence for sauces, and a faith in flavors of which we were 
devoid before. He has presided over our Egyptian fleshpots, and 
thus repaid our hospitality a hundred-fold. Figuratively seated at 
his feet we have abjured the fallacy that a man does rot merely 
eat to live, but that the pleasures of the table, when keenly but 
rationally enjoyed, occupy a large space in the sum of human 
comfort. 

Withal we really have no knowledge yet of how well off we 
are in this respect. Occasionally one reads in the newspaper a 
description of some new restaurant or his eye is attracted by the 
announcement of some banquet, the publication of the menu con- 
cluding with a perfunctory compliment to the cooking and the 
service. We will now, to use a hackneyed but useful phrase, supply 
a long felt want, and in "The Inner Man " travel from restaurant to 
restaurant, go into the salon, examine the. cabmet partiailier, visit 
the kitchen, chat with thepairofi, interview monsieur /e ckef, inquire 
from whom he obtains those rough blocks from which he fashions 
the dishes that delight the epicures, and make him the high priest 
of the shrine whose threshold is barred to Dull Care and its 
attendant imps. No place where the good things of life are 
provided shall fail to receive suitable mention in this volume, nor 
shall its merits be presented in aught but veracious phrase, for 
truth is the basis of all history. 




CHAPTER I 

The Science of Cooking — The Gridiron, the Thermometer of Civilization 
— Early Californian Cooking — Do We Over-eat in San Francisco? — 
Fallacious Theories Kegarding Eating and Drinking — Eccentric 
Habits of other Countries. 



ALIFORNIA'S EARLIEST SETTI^ER, the Span- 
iard, and after him the Mexican, had some very 
sound views on the science of cooking. The grid- 
iron is the thermometer of civilization, but the naked 
coals the Californian's grille preceded the gridiron, 
giving the same, if indeed not superior results. In proportion as 
men become cultured, and well to-do, in that proportion do they 
give up frying and substitute broiling. In the wild, ignorant and 
unsettled portions of this country, far away from the refinements 
of the cities, meat is almost always fried ; the gridiron is little 
known, Horace Greeley once declared on his return from a visit 
to Texas that among other civilizing influences, an oxvay of twenty 
thousand cooks was needed in that section. But that is over a 
decade ago, and it is to be hoped that since then the Lone Star State 
has seen the error of its ways, and has abandoned the frying pan. 
The rude art of outdoor cooking of the Californian is to this 
day most acceptable to the epicure. The asado or meat 
broiUd on live coals, is one of the few methods of preparation 
which can make the flesh of an animal killed a few hours before, 
wholesome and palatable. The great heat to which the meat is 
immediately subjected, coagulates the albumen on the surface, and 
prevents the juices from flowing out. 

From time to time we hear of strange and startling theories in 
regat-d to eating and drinking. Some scientists declare that only 
one or two varieties of meats or fish should be taken at a time; 
that there should be no drinking at meals, and that the appetite is 
to be subdued rather than guided. "The Man," saysone, "whogets 
up frbm his meals without feeling he could have eaten more is guilty 
of a sin against himself." This all depends upon his construction 



Ghiradelli's Breakfast Cocoa. The Best 



6 THE INNER WIAM 

of the word satiety. Certainly he who departs from a well-furnished 
table without feeling that he has eaten just as much as his appetite 
calls for, does not deserve to be amply entertained. He who eats 
more than his appetite demands is a glutton and is rarely found 
among those who make a study of the pleasures of the table. 

We have everything to be thankful for in California in regard to 
the inner man. A clever Statistician has said that of the thirteen 
hundred million inhabitants of this globe, only a small portion 
sj^stematically get enough to eat. The majority of the inhabitants 
of the world are underfed. How few in San Francisco arise in 
the morning not knowing where or how they shall get their break- 
fast? In Great Britain, where among the upper classes the art of 
dining has been carried to its highest perfection, hundreds of 
thousands behold the morning sun with this problem unsolved in 
their minds. There is enough wasted in the streets, about the 
markets, at the wharves, and vegetable stands to provide if collected, 
for all the hungry tramps the city could muster. And not tainted 
meats or fish, or poor vegetables, but matter which in the very 
wantonness of our plenty, has been allowed to fall in the dust of the 
streets. 

Do we over-eat in San Francisco ? Has the number, excellence 
and cheapness of our restaurants inculcated this sin ? These are 
questions which may be truthfully answered in the negative. We eat 
well, but excess is the exception, and not the rule. Among the civilized 
portions of all society in these times the number of those who over- 
eat is very limited. In the old civilizations of Persia and Rome, and 
with our forefathers in Great Britain and Northern Europe, gluttony 
was a prominent if not universal vice among those who could obtain 
the materials on which to be gluttonous. The vice is a relic of 
savagery, of a social state when food was scarce, or at least uncertain, 
and men were tempted to gorge themselves in order to compensate 
for the famines of the past, and anticipate those that were to come. 
Then again savages have so little intellectual culture, and so few 
amusements, that the gratification of the appetite has no limited 
restraints. 

Our greatest epicures are among the most moderate eaters. 
Savarin, the most refined of writers on cookerj^ sa5^s that the vice of 
enormous eating is in general too disgusting for him to discu.ss. All 
the Bourbon Kings of France were gourmands. Louis XIV could 
eat for a meal four platefuls of soup, a whole pheasant, a partridge, 
a plateful of salad, mutton hashed with garlic, two good slices of 



THE INNER NIAN 7 

bam, a dish of pastry and plenty of fruit and sweetmeats. Louis 
XVIII invented the famous dish truffles d, la puree d" ortolans. He 
and his maitre (V hotel, the Due d'Escurs composed it themselves for 
the first time, allowing no menial to approach. Then they ate of it to 
excess, and in the night the Due was taken very ill. He sent to rouse 
the King whom he feared might have a similar attack. His Majesty 
\\ as very angry. "What," said he, "what, dying of my />'?^^(f j- « 
la puree? Ah, I was right, I always said I had the better stomach." 
The Due died, but the King continued to enjoy his famous dis- 
covery. 

M. de Semblacy, Bishop of Bourges, who ate six meals a day 
and never rose satisfied, attributed his magnificent appetite to the 
fact that he said grace not only before and after each meal, but at 
the removal of each service. 

A man used to go every Thursday for years to a famous res- 
taurant in Paris, and eat one after another the forty odd soups on 
the menu. After that he had a nieringice glace au cttro?i, and went 
away without having drank a drop of wine. 

A well-known restaurateur, Brebant, had a customer who was 
ashamed of the immense appetite with which nature had gifced him. 
He would go to Brebant, and order a dinner for himself and party 
of eight friends. He told the restaurant keeper that he went in for 
military punctuality. When his guests did not arrive at the 
appointed hour, he ordered the waiters to serve, and ate all the nine 
dinners himself, grumbling audibly all the time about the impolite- 
ness of his friends. He carried out this farce habitually. 

An amateur gourmand wished to enter into an eating match 
with Le Mardelay, proprietor of the Rocher de Cancale. 

' ' Shall we settle the menu at once ? " he a.sked of Cancale, ' ' Of 
what use ?" replied Cancale, " we will eat whatever there is accord- 
ing to the morning's market, beginning with twelve dozen oysters 
apiece, twenty-four cutlets, three capons" — "Each?" asked the 
challenger, "Of course," said Ee Mardelay, "and for the rest we 
will take whatever there is." The rash man went away and did 
not come back. 

Gus Bisson, a friend of Savarin, drank eight bottles of wine to 
breakfast every morning, without seeming to feel any effects from it. 

English men of the last century habitually ate and drank to 
excess. Horace Walpole, writing to a friend who urged him to give 
up his temperate diet, said that he daily saw men who were mountains 
of roast beef, and seemed just roughly hewn out into human out 



A Napa Soda Lemonade is a Luxury 



8 THE INNER NIAN 

lines, like the giant rock at Pratolino. He shuddered when he saw 
them brandish their knives in the act to carve, and looked upon 
them as savages who devoured one another. 

At Dolly's chop-house in Queens Heap Passage, near Ludgate 
Hill in London, the ingenious anatomist and chemist, Dr. George 
Fordyce, dined every day for more than twenty j^ears. He believed 
that since map)^ animals thrived on one meal a day, so could men. 
He entered the chop-house at four in the afternoon. A silver tank- 
ard of strong ale, a bottle of port, and a measure containing a 
quarter of a pint of brandy were placed before him, and a piece of 
rump steak weighing a pound and a half was put on the grille. 
While the steak was preparing he ate a grilled chicken, or other 
similar morsel. Then he drank a glass of brandy, and started in to 
eat his steak, during the consumption of which he drank his ale and 
port. When he had finished his steak he drank the rest of the 
brandy. This meal occupied him just one hour and a half, and then 
he hurried away to his professional engagements, and took no other 
food during the day. 

MAISON RICHE. — Brillat Savarin, whose name shall forever 
remain dear to the epicures of all climes, has said that when every 
other pleasure palls, the delights of the table alone remain to 
smooth man's path through life. Justin Ladagnous, an earnest 
believer in the doctrines of this great apostle of the refinements of the 
table, has quaintly remarked that the elixir vitoe is not found in the 
grim regime of the ascetic — the pulse, and pease of the recluse, but 
in generous food, eaten in moderation and in good compan3^ 

In January 1887 Justin Ladagnous, with his partner John Somali, 
recently decea.sed, opened the Maison Riche, on the northeast corner 
of Geary street and Grant avenue. It occupies three upper floors of 
the large building where it is situated, and has three entrances. Grant 
avenue, Geary street and Morton street. The dining-rooms are on 
the first floor, and on the upper floors are sleeping apartments and 
reception rooms, for the Maison Riche has the dual character of 
hotel and restaurant. Mr. Ladagnous attends to the ofiice and 
main dining-room, and caters and exercises a general supervision; 
over the other departments. Cool, pleasant and artistic is the big 
dining-room, with its tessellated marble floors, its wainscot of porce- 
lain tiles, and the soothing splash of the fountain in the center. 
Here the tranquil diner pays little heed to the busy hum from the 
street beneath, as the sympathetic waiter places before him the most 



THE INNER NIAN 9 

delicate creations of the cook's art, and thrills with the self-conscious- 
ness of the perfection of the service. There is no clatter, no noise, 
no confusion. All is quietly systematic, and Repose, that divinity 
inseparable from the perfect dinner, is here enshrined, the goddess of 
the temple. Through the art-glass windows the light strikes softly 
in, so even the garish rays of the sun are subdued to be in harmon\- 
with the intense peacefulness of the place. The same freedom from 
rush and clatter reigns in the corridors, in the snug tete-a-tete cabi- 
7iets, and even in the kitchen, where monsieur le chef blends and 
tastes, and marshals his skillful assistants to conquer insipidity, and 
minister to the most fastidious appetites. 

The banquet-hall of the Maison Riche has been the scene of 
many a brilliant entertainment. To enumerate the festal dinners 
that have been held in this artisticalty furnished and comfortable 
apartment would exceed the capacity of this volume. It is suffi- 
cient to say that in every instance those gatherings have been a 
success, and the skill of the chef, and the health of the cook, and 
of Justin Ladagnous, have not been the least enthusiastic toasts of 
the evening. 

About a 3^ear ago a discussion arose among epicures in regard 
to expensive menus, and the amount that one might pay for a grand 
dinner, and receive the full value of his money. Mr. Justin 
Ivadagnous was asked as an expert to give his opinion as to the 
resources of civilization in the gastronomic line, and this gen- 
tlemen decided that $60 a plate might be easily expended in a first- 
class dinner at the Maison Riche. As the details of such a banquet 
cannot fail to be interesting to epicures we shall quote from that 
gentleman : 

"In the first place to give a grand dinner with the flowers, 
decorations and table service, and a lot of little things to make the 
surroundings of a really superb repast perfect, which every man 
who is a good liver and not afraid of the cost, understands, will cost 
$25 a plate. Now it is the wines that really make a dinner expen- 
sive. It will be as reasonable to harness a fast horse to a scavenger's 
cart as to ask a gentleman to sit down to a $25 dinner with any but 
the best of wines. We would not teel like furnishing a grand din- 
ner unless the wines were the very best that our cellar affords. Now, 
about the cost. We will suppose a little party of eight sitting down 
to a $25 breakfast or dinner. Of the Sauterne eight glasses would 
go to a bottle, one for each guest. Of Bordeaux, half a bottle to 
each. Burgundy one pint each. Champagne one-half bottle each, 

Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate.. The Best 



10 THE INNER .VIAN 

and this is by no means excessive. It frequently happens that tlie 
guests will consume more than that, particularly of Champagne. 

"With the oysters, of course, should be served Montrochet. 
This is a white Burgundy, and one of the finest of that class of 
wines. It is remarkable for its exquisite delicacy and has a fine body 
combined with a most pleasing dryness. The vintage of 1864 costs 
no more than $15 a bottle, but if the host should select Chateau 
Vquem, of '68, he can have it at $10 a bottle. 

''Now, with the soup comes sherry, and we can serve Amon- 
tillado, the magnificent dry production of Cordova, which every 
connoisseur knows to be the greatest of all dry Spanish wines, at 
$12 a bottle. Next w^e come to the German wines, and will give 
you a genuine Schloss Johannisberger at $25 a bottle, a price which 
I assure you leaves us but a small margin of profit. This is the 
superlative wine of the Rhine, and grows on the estate presented 
by the Emperor of Austria to the late Prince Metternich. No 
German wine is more esteemed; none commands a higher price, and 
but very few people can afford to drink it. Then there are such 
wines as Romance Conti, of '64, and the famous I^achryma Christi, 
from the island of Cyprus, at $15 and $12 a bottle. The L,achryma 
Christi is neither a white nor a red wine. It is remarkably clear 
with a royal flavc^r, and is alwaj^s at big dinners served after the 
Champagne. " 

The Maison Riche has its prices graded for all good livers, and 
the service is the same to all. The difference between it and Del- 
monico's of New York, is in favor of our side of the continent. 
There, the man whose purse is not long, well-filled and bound by 
loose strings, will be apt to find himself out of place in that lux- 
urious and expensive cafe. Not so with the Maison Riche. The 
excellent table (V hote dinner with good viri ordinaire is served in 
the large dining-room at $1.50 a plate, and a still more elaborate 
repast in the private dining-rooms at $2.50 a plate. And what din- 
ners they are to be sure, blossoms culled from all the gardens 
of this State where the good things grow. Meats that have gath- 
ered flavor from rich, luxurious grasses, fruits which seem almost 
too beautiful to be amalgamated with our human clay, fish which 
carry the fresh suggestions of the ocean with them, vegetables deli- 
cious enough to constitute in themselves a repast, and co7ifitures as 
tempting as the rosy lips of sweet sixteen. 

Many of the most distinguished people who have visited San 
Francisco, have enioved the good things served at this admirable 



THE INNER. NIAN U 

restaurant. Sara Bernhardt, the immortal, has feasted here, and 
men and women of high rank in the domain of art, letters and 
politics, have been entertained at the tables of the Maison Riche. 
Could the brilliant scenes which have taken place in the great 
banqueting hall, the good things said, the jests made when the wine 
went round, the songs sung when the champagne bubbled in the 
glass, be reproduced, what a brilliant chapter in the festal life of this 
hospitable city it would make! Here has the man who won the 
laurel crown, received the appreciative applause of his admiring 
friends, and listened with exultant heart to his health drank with 
all the honors. 

This Home of Good Cheer is a credit to San Francisco, and its 
management, and has won a lofty place, which it must ever retain 
in the appreciation of those who delight in the higher art of the 
kitchen — the best ministrations to the wants of the inner man. 

POMMERY SEC— There is a charm in those words which 
thrills every one of epicurean taste who has inhaled the aroma, 
and sipped the sparkles from a goblet of this most delicious wine. 
Its popularity on the Pacific Coast is a credit to the good taste of 
the ultimate West, for it has been of steady and ever increasing 
growth. Heralded as the favorite wine of the best known con- 
noisseurs and royalty of the old world, its merits were at once 
recognized, and its character appreciated by the refined of the 
new. And not among the least of these is the fact that unlike most 
of the pleasures of this life, there is no sorrow, no indisposition 
in the wake of Pommer}' Sec. It stands alone as one of the few 
keen enjoyments in this vale of sorrows where remorse for indul- 
gence has no place in its train. None but pleasant memories, and 
the mc7is sana and corpore sano attend upon the devotees of Pom- 
mer}' Sec. 

The late Madam Pommery was in every respect a most remark- 
able woman. She possessed the faculty of discrimination to the 
extent of selecting the best people to manage her vast interests, 
and finding for each guest that place where his peculiar talents would 
have the widest scope, and conduce most to the prosperity of the 
entire management. The members of the firm now are Louis 
Pommery, Comtesse de Polignacand Henry Vasnier the experienced 
directeur, to whose great adminstrative capacity and unswerving 
fidelity to the interests of the business, the elevated position that 
Pommery Sec now holds, is largely due. The firm has ever held to one 



Napa Soda Water Cures Dyspepsia 



12 THE INMKK. MAN 

steadfast motive, one unswerving purpose, namely, the production of 
a high grade of champagne of uniform quality, regardless of cost. 
Therefore while their champagne stock is the largest in the world 
it also commands the highest price in the market. They paid in 
1SS9 the enormous sum of $3,000,000 for one-sixth of the entire 
fine vintage of that year. The importation of Pommer}- Sec last 
year for the United States was 74,576 cases, out of which the 
Pacific Coast consumed 10,800 cases, a trub^ remarkable .showing for 
its population, and the most convincing proof of the high esteem in 
which this wine is held. In evidence of the extreme care used in 
placing none but a perfect wine upon the market is the circum- 
stance that the house of Pommery has in one season been known 
to destroy several hundred thousand bottles because the wine did 
not, for some slight reason, come up to the high standard they had 
established. In view of such broad, and conscientious principles, it 
is not to be wondered at that the plaudits, and endorsements from all 
sides are hearty and numerous. On one occasion at a banquet at 
which the Prince of Wales sat with some of the leading nobility, a 
witty lady of title produced the following impromptu acrostic; 

Prince of wines, and princes' wine, 

Only thy presence is nectar divine, 

Many have chanted thy praises, Oh draught I 

Many a bumper to thee has been quaffed. 

Endless the joy that was born with thy birth, 

Radiant gem of the wines of the earth; 

Youth cometh with thee to bloom in our hearts, 

Sorrow before thee forever departs, 

Eyes sparkle brightly with ecstatic glee, 

Care flys wherever we touch lips to thee. 

The sole agents for Pommery Sec on the Pacific Coast are Wil- 
liam Wolff & Co., to whom much of the success of this wine upon 
the Pacific Coast is due. Mr. Wolff is also president of the Pommery 
Sec Club, an organization composed of some of the best known bon- 
viviants of San Francisco. 




CHAPTER II 

Setting THE Table — The Art of Drinking Wines— Hints About the Handling 
OF Wines — The Necessity op Flowers as an Ornament. 



O SET A TABLE seems, perhaps, very easy, but to 
vset it properly and tastefully is not such an easy 
matter. Place the table in the center of the dining-room, 
under the chandelier, and see to it that it is perfectly 
steady; that is to say that there is no danger of its being 
shaken while the dinner is in progress. Should it not rest firmly, 
perhaps an old relic, in the shape of a Bland Dollar, could be made 
serviceable by placing it under one of the feet. See to it that there 
is plenty of space between each cover; it is annoying to come in 
contact with every move of your neighbor. A table for six persons 
should be six feet long. Take a woolen cloth and put it over the 
table and then place a linen cloth on top of it, this will deaden the 
noise of plates and glasses. Flowers should never be absent from the 
table when you have guests; they can be procured at all seasons. 
A large basket or bouquet should be placed in the center of the 
table; a large bouquet on the right side for each lady; and a small 
boutomiicre for each gentleman, also on the right side of the cover. 
On each side of the center piece place a fruit stand, nicely arranged 
with the choicest fruits of the season. Next to this place a compo- 
tier with assorted cakes. Place celer>', olives or radishes symmetri- 
cally in the space that is left between the centre and the covers. 
Fish knives, soup spoons and oyster forks must be placed on the 
right side of the plate and the fork on the other side. If desired, 
place fancy pieces on the table (pieces niontees)-, but as the foregoing 
items pertain only to a dinner for six persons it would crowd out 
much available space. Napkins can be arranged in various styles 
and figures; into flowers or any other desired form. The latest 
and most fashionable way is to arrange them folded plainly, so as to 
show the monogram of the family. A small salt-cellar should be 
placed by each cover, to avoid asking the servant for it. Menus, 
either written or printed, should be placed at each cover. It is not a 



Indigestion Dies where Napa Soda Lives 



14 THE IKNER NIAIS: 

breach of etiquette to refuse a course you do not desire; by knowing 
what is coming you can with propriety refuse a course and take the 
next one. A1)0ut ten minutes before the commencing of dinner fill the 
decanters with Sauterne and with Sherry- and place the same on the 
table. Nearly every family of means is in the habit of giving a few 
dinners during the year to its friends. As a matter of course the 
members of the family are in return invited to "dine out." If you 
invite j'our friends to dinner you should not wish them to go awaj- 
dissatisfied. It should not be forgotten that much depends on the 
appearance of the table, and by the manner of serving the courses. In 
fact more success can be attained b}' studied attention to the room, the 
tables and the serving of the courses, than in the preparation of costly 
viands. On entering the dining-room the first object which strikes 
the eye is the table. If the table is void of flowers, and the other 
side decorations, including olives, radishes and celery, tastefully 
arranged wine glasses and napkins, an impression is given of a board- 
ing-house table. On the contrary when you see a beautifully deco- 
rated and artistically arranged table, the heart is immediateh" 
gladdened. A proper regard should be paid to the comfort of the 
guests as regards temperature. Have the room neither too cold nor 
too warm. The temperature should never exceed sixty degrees. 
The dining-room should be well aired before dinner commences. 
Great care should be taken that the dinner is served hot. Noises 
with plates and glasses should be avoided. There is as much 
system in serving a dinner as there is in running a railroad, or in 
any other business. French dinners are generally served in three 
main courses, viz., Releves, Entrees, and R6tis;?\\ the rest are con- 
sidered side courses. It depends entirel}^ on the taste of the host as 
to how many main courses he desires served. Naturally what you 
shall serve will depend entirely on what there is in market at the 
season. For instance, you canuot serve brook-trout in January, or 
canvas-back during the months of June, July, August or September. 
However, the very best in the market should invariably be selected. 
Care should be taken to have the wines at the right temperature. 
Sherry, Sauterne, Chablis and Rhine wines should always be served 
cold. Champagne should be served very cold, almost at the freez- 
ing point. Bordeaux and Burgundy should be kept twelve hours 
before dinner in a room at a temperature of seventy degrees. Ser- 
vants should be instructed not to fill the glasses more than three- 
fourths full; for guests are in danger of soiling their dresses, and, 
again it is not considered good form. The art of knowing exactiv 



THE INNER iVIAN 15 

how and when and where to drink wine, belongs only to the 
experienced epicure; to understand minutely the proper wines to pro- 
vide for his guests, belongs only to a house-master gifted with refined 
taste. A picture of a great artist requires certain light, and in fact 
a surrounding of favorable accessories to enable us to appreciate the 
talent of the painter; just as a woman, however regal may be her 
beauty, neither ignores nor disdains to heighten her charms by 
harmonious accord and judicious contrast. So it is figuratively with 
wine: the art of drinking the superior wines is also a science. The 
first essential being a thorough acquaintance with the different 
characteristics distinguishing the respective wines to be produced 
on the table. To know exactly what wines to serve with certain 
meats, so as to better appreciate their flavor, observing the judicious 
graduating scale, allow each wine its appropriate entrance and 
exit. After studying the bill of fare, it should be decided which are 
the wines to be offered and in what order they are to be partaken. 
The selected bottles should be taken from the cellar four hours 
previous to the repast, cautiously carrying them into the pantry in 
the same horizontal position they had in the cellar and in the same 
sense, so that the dregs or lees may remain at the bottom of the 
bottle; particular attention must be given not to shake the bottles 
when removing them from the cellar to the pantry. The bottles 
should not be decanted until just before drinking, in order to pre- 
serve the aroma and bouquet. The decanter into which wine is to 
be poured, ought to be of a slightly tepid heat in Winter, but the 
wine must not be heated. In what order should the wine be served ? 
The following rules should be observed for the proper accordance of 
wines with meats; with fish white wines; with meat the fuller red 
wines; at the end of the repast the oldest red wines; at the end of 
dessert the liqueurs and sparkling white wines. White wines 
ought to be drank very cold. On a point of view, of flavor, or taste, 
the liquorous white wines, such as those of Sauternes, have two 
schools among epicures: the one perferring this wine at dessert, the 
other at the commencement of the repast, with the fish. The rule 
for the degration of red wines is to commence by the youngest and 
least celebrated. We shall see in what manner these rules are 
applied by epicures. Some spoonfuls of soup having by their soft heat 
prepared the palate and stomach to fill their useful and agreeable 
functions, the least drop of Madeira gives these organs all the neces- 
sary activity. With oysters, following salmon or turbot appear the 
grand rather dry Hqtiorous Bordeaux, which we prefer to iced 



Liadies Drink Napa Soda for Complexion 



10 THK irsINKK. MAX 

Champagne used in the North. As soon as the fish have been 
removed, the butler ceases to serve them. When the cook has 
served the meats, the fine ordinary and the superior Bourgeois of 
Medoc, full of bod 5% purple color and perfumed bouquet are pro- 
duced. It is with roast meat, venison, etc., that are served 
the racy and capital first growths of " Saint-Eniilion" and 
Burgundy. When toward the middle of the repast, the guests have 
at this satisfactory state of the taste, been now prepared by a series 
of skillful sensations, the grand red wines of Medoc make their 
triumphal entry and the butler proudly announces their names and 
dates: Chateau-Margaux 1864, Chateau-Lafite 1869, Chateau- 
Latour 1870. After those wines the rich Sauternes may again be 
finely tasted as well as some glasses of sparkling Champagne ! 

THE OCCIDENTAL RESTAURANT.— Pierre Klein, the 
proprietor of the Occidental Restaurant, 332 Bush street, is among 
the pioneer and most popular restaurateurs of San Francisco. The 
original "Occidental" was on Washington street, and here in the 
"fifties" a number of choice spirits used to congregate and enjoy 
the good things that Pierre provided for them. There was in fact 
a regular dining-club of the young men of that time at the Occi- 
dental. The best carver u.sed to sit at the head of the table, and 
to the most experienced salad mixer, the bowl of cool, crisp lettuce 
was passed. But Washington street became too remote from the 
city's center for Klein's increasing business. Nor was the old 
Occidental large enough to accommodate his patrons. So some 
years ago the Occidental was transferred to the present handsome 
brick building at 332 Bush street. The lower portion is divided 
into two dining-halls, the inner of which is mostly used by ladies, 
though no special reservation is made in this respect. The private 
dining-rooms upstairs are elegantly and comfortably furnished, and 
so arranged that several can be thrown into one long banqueting 
hall. It would be difficult to say for what specially good thing the 
Occidental is remarkable. Everything that comes from the kitchen 
is artistic, and the service is prompt, while the utmost neatness every- 
where prevails. If one might exercise a preference it is for the 
game dinners at the Occidental during the Winter season. Pierre 
Klein has a knack of securing the plumpest and biggest canvas-back 
duck in the market, and flanking them with teal, mallard, sprig, 
everything of the wild duck family that flies over the marsh. To 
make the duck dinner complete, the Occidental cellar contains fine 



THE INNER NIAN 17 

imported Burgundies and the best of Champagnes and Sauternes. 
Mr. Klein is also noted for his fine discrimination in California wines, 
and the very best of the native vintages are set before those guests 
who have faith in the viticultural productions of the coast. The 
care used in the cooking of these game dinners is extreme. If the 
epicure wants a sixteen-minute duck, or a bird which has been 
eighteen minutes exposed to the fire, he may be assured that the 
chef will not err a second either on the side of expedition or delay. 
Mr. Klein has moreover the advantage of being himself a sportsman, 
and is so well acquainted with those localities from which the primest 
wild duck comes, that he is never in danger of being deceived. It 
is not necessary to enumerate the many excellent things for which 
the Occidental is remarkable. Its lunches, a la table d'hole, though 
most moderate in price, are held in high esteem by the good livers 
of this city. The breakfasts and dinners are equally good, and com- 
fort, neatness, and promptitude everywhere obtain. 

CHARLES MEINECKE & CO.— The wines of Ay from an 
early date found favor in the eyes of poets and princes, and one 
has sung: 

Ay produces the best wine — 

I call the world lo witness this 
Though you may for Rheims opine 

Ay produces the best wine, 
It ranks the first and the most fine. 

The largest Champagne establishment at Ay is that of Messrs. 
Deutz and Gelderman whose extra dry Gold Lack Champagne 
has been long and favorably known on this coast through the 
energetic exertions of their agents here, Charles Meinecke & Co., 
314 Sacramento street. The cuvees of Deutz and Gelderman con- 
sisting usually of 50,000 gallons each, are made in a vat of gigantic 
proportions. Their splendid range of cellars now comprises eight 
long and lofty galleries no less than seventeen feet wide, and the 
same number of feet in height, and of the aggregate length of 
2,200 yards. They are capable of containing several million bottles 
of Champagne in addition to a large quantity of wine in cask. 
Gold Lack Sec is held in high estimation by the connoisseurs of 
the old world, and to-day it is the favorite at numerous regim.ental 
messes, and the principal hotels. In the Clubs of this city as well 
as the houses of our best known epicures this delicious wine is 



Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



18 THE INNER MAN 

always in demand. Its bouquet, and its refined and pleasing flavor 
combine with the fact that no ill effects ever follow a too free 
indulgence in this delightful wine. Among the many things good 
for the inner man for which this firm are the agents, is the superb 
Port of Messrs. Feuerheerd & Co. Of this Vizetelly, the celebrated 
wine expert says in a recent volume of his: " Of the numerous 
vintage ports we tasted none were more interesting than the collec- 
tion shown to us at the lodges of Messrs. Feuerheerd & Co. This 
firm keeps certain of its vintage wines from particular quintas 
intact; and here we tasted a splendid wine of 1870 from the Quinta 
do Ronaco, remarkable for its great delicacy, and fine perfume; 
also a sample of 1873 from the same quinta, dry and full of flavor, 
and some beautiful wines of 1875, from the Quintas Bom Retiro and 
Zimbro. We were further shown some natural ports made without 
any addition of spirit, vintage 1875, being beautifully fresh tasting." 
This Port has a splendid color, and a rich, soft, delicate flavor. 

Of Dufi", Gordon & Co., the oldest shipping house at the 
Puerto de Santa Maria, sherries for which Messrs. Meinecke & Co., 
are also the agents, the same authority says that for some of the 
amontillados and olorosos of subdued pungent taste, and rich 
aroma ^400 per butt had been offered and refused, it being consid- 
ered much too valuable for blending purposes to be parted with even 
at this price. 

Among other good wines for which Messrs. Meinecke & Co., 
are agents, are the Bordeaux clarets from A. De Luze & fils, 
Bordeaux, hocks from G. M. Pabstmann, Sohn Mayence, Mosel 
wines from Haussmann and Lenz, Traben-on-the-Mosel and fine 
brandies, gin, rum, and mineral waters. Of the Mosel wines Bern- 
castle is known locally as "the doctor," because, as the legend goes, a 
Knight was cured of a fatal illness after an extravagantly deep 
potation of this, his favorite beverage. The French sparkling wines 
which furnish perhaps the best substitutes for Champagne, are first 
those from Vouvray in the neighborhood of Tours, notably the wines of 
Dupanloup & Co., Carte Blanche of which Messrs. Meinecke & Co., 
are the agents, and which possess the requisite lightness and 
exhilarating qualities of a vin mossetix combined with a decidedly 
pleasant flavor. 



THE; INNER MAN 19 

OCEANIC STEAMSHIP COMPANY.— There is no more 
delightful trip on the broad face of the oceans of the world than the 
voyage from San Francisco to the Sandwich Islands. Between 
those points the Pacific well deserves its name. It is for months as 
calm as a mountain lake, which is sheltered on all sides by sentinel 
peaks from the winds. The Oceanic Steamship Company, John 
D. Spreckels & Bros., has done everything to make this vo5'age to 
" Those summer isles of Eden 13'ing 
In dark purple spheres of sea," 

pleasant and enjoyable to the tourist. They run the following 
steamers to Honolulu direct, fortnightly the Ajcstralia, 3,200 
American register; the Zealandia^ 't>^2oo tons Hawaiian measure- 
ment which alternate with the Mariposa, 3,000 tons American register; 
the Alameda^ 3,000 tons ditto, and the Manitozva, 3,200 tons New 
Zealand measurement. The through steamers sail every four weeks 
and in combination with the direct Honolulu steamers give the 
Sandwich Islands nine days communication with the coast. 1 

To say that this fine fleet is furnished with all the modern im- 
provements does not fully convey the extreme comfort which is 
enjoyed in the voyage. The staterooms are furnished with elec- 
tric bells, and electric lights, the table is up to the standard of 
the best first-class hotels ashore, and good order and cleanliness 
everywhere prevail. No better opportunity of making the acquain- 
tance of the romance of a life in the tropics can be obtained than 
by a run to Honolulu, for in that strangely beautiful country is 
found the extreme luxuriance of tropical vegetation, and the langour 
and fascination of an existence where the sunshine is perpetual and 
the coral reefs are washed by seas as blue as the skies above them. 
The rate of travel by these steamers is very moderate, and there is 
no limit to the courtesies extended tourists. The pleasures of a voy- 
age across that placid ocean are infinite. There is the pure invigor- 
ating air for the invalid, the enjoyable association and the wonderful 
sunsets and moonlights of the tropical seas. The hospitality of 
the people of Honolulu is well known. The stranger is always 
made welcome there, and nothing pleases those good people so much 
as his appreciation of the beauties of these picturesque islands. The 
great volcano on Hawaii is one of the wonders of the world, and the 
facilities for seeing it have been so improved within the last few 
years that the journey is now one without danger or fatigue. The 
office of J. D. Spreckels & Bros, is 327 Market st. 



Do you Drink ? Then Napa Soda is your Tipple 




CHAPTER III 

Ax iNcinEXT OF THE Cl'isine — TjiE Cook's Belief in the Efficacy op His Art 
— The Menu Cooked Under Trying Circumstances. — The Fate of a 
Tom Cat.-^An Insult to France Avenged. 



^ HE FOLI.OWING SKETCH, illustrative of the pride 
of the chef in his art is well adapted to the purposes 
of this volume : 

■'The Franco-German war was just over when I com- 
menced my medical studies in Paris. I lived in the Rue 
de I'Ancienne Comedie, which, as you know perfectly well, is just 
at the back of the Odeon Theater, in the heart of Quartier Latin 
— I and Mr. Magloire. We both were students, — I of medicine, he 
of the culinary art. Magloire was an enthusiast; so was I. I 
l)eljeve each of us loved his own particular art, as a true artist 
should, above everything el.se. Magloire had begun life as a viar- 
miton^ he rose to be a journeyman; he became a sous-chef; and 
then he came to Paris to carry out the ambition of his 
life. He came to Paris to study under the great Capilotade — 
Capilotade, the cook of cooks, the Napoleon of the culinary art. 
He was ambitious, you .see, this M. Magloire, my fellow lodger. 
'The day will come,' he would saj' to me, 'when my talent will 
be recognized. The day will come — ah, and you will live to see it, 
my friend — when every fashionable dish will be accommodated a la 
■ Magloire — soup a la Magloire, entrees^ pastrj-, all a la Magloire. The 
bills of fare of the fashionable restaurants will bristle with plats a la 
Magloire. Discreet waiters, on being consulted by their habitual 
customers, the great bo?i vivayits will suggest that the latest stjle is 
a la Magloire; and the man who intends to dine well will order the 
artistic masterpiece of his proposed dinner to be confectioned a la 
Magloire, and he will never, never, never repent this decision. The 
receipts for those inestimable /{>/a/5 are here, '.the little man would 
say with a self-satisfied smile, pointing to his bomb-.shell forehead. 
" But his art was not his only passion; he hated the enemies of 
his country, the Germans, with a ferocious hatred. I believe there 



TtiE INNER rvIAN 



21 



is nothing he would have cooked with greater pleasure than Prince 
Bismark himself. ' There is nothing good about a German,' he 
would say, 'except his enormous appetite and wonderful digestion.' 

"We Ijyed in adjoining rooms then, Magloire and I, and we had 
a little box of a kitchen, as is frequently the case in French lodging- 
houses, in common. I was only too glad to mess with M. Magloire. 
We lived for next to nothing, and he always gave me dejefcner of 
(onr plats at twelve o'clock, Magloire had not an enemy in the 
world, except Mephistopheles, the cat of our landlord, who occupied 
the first floor. This Mephistopheles pervaded the house. He was 
a past-master in the predatory art. Mephistopheles was a red cat, a 
fiend in feline form. The measure of his iniquity was full; he had 
eaten the canary of Mile Lucie, the pretty milliner on the floor above; 
he had devored the favorite starling of the wife of the concierge; and' 
many a time and oft he had stolen choice morsels from the laboratory'' 
of my friend Magloire. ; 

" ' Magloire,' said I to my fellow lodger one night, as we were 
consuming a grog au vin in my room, ' I have taken a liberty with 
you. I have invited my friend Dr. Von Wurst, to breakfast to-mor- 
row and felt certain you wouldn't mind when I gave the invitation. 
But after I left him, I remarked he was a Prussian, and, knowing 
your hatred for Prussians, perhaps I have better take him out to 
breakfast. Can you lend me five francs, for I am dead broke ? ' 

"M. Magloire upset his tumbler over his trousers; what was in 
the tumbler was hot. 'Doctor,' cried M. Magloire, and his eyes 
sparkled with mingled rage and pain, ' when you ask me to cook 
for the enemy of my country, you insult me. I would cook for the 
ignorant, for the uncultured, even for the converted cannibal; but 
for the enemy of my country, never! Farewell, peifidious English- 
man, you've hurt my feelings, 'and he rushed from the room. I heard 
him lock himself in his bedroom, and there was a dead silence for 
a full quarter of an hour. It was suddenly broken by a confused 
noise of running about in my fellow-lodger's room. Then there 
was a sound of a heavy blow — then a silence. Five minutes after- 
ward, there was a tap at my door and Magloire appeared. He was 
very red in the face, and he looked very much ashamed of himself, 

" ' Dr. Labels,' he said, ' forgive my loss of temper; forgive my 
apparent rudeness. I have repented; embrace me my friend, 'Labels,' 
he cried hurriedly, ' your friend — your Prussian friend — shall not be 
disappointed. I will do my best for you to-morrow, and for him. 
You are hard up, my friend, but you still have credit with the wine 



Ghiradelli's Breakfast Cocoa. The Best 



*2 XME INNER NIAN 

merchant. Send in a couple of bottles of wine, then, and look to 
Magloire for the breakfast; leave that to me. I will provide a 
breakfast — such a breakfast — a breakfast that lyUCuUus himself 
would not be ashamed to assist at. But I have one stipulation to 
make' cried the little man, ' I will compose a special dish of honor 
for 3'our friend, the Prussian, a ^ civit de lapin a la Magloire,^ o. 
delicious plat, but you must promise me not to partake of it." 
'You're not going to poison him?' I asked. 'Heaven forbid!' 
cried the disciple of Soyer, ' but I know the German taste. I pre- 
pare a special dish for him, and there will not be enough for all.' I 
agreed to the bargain; I thanked Magloire, effusively, and we bade 
each other good-night. ' Don't forget that you're to provide the 
wine,' cried Magloire as he disappeared. 

"At ten minutes to twelve the next day I arrived with my friend, 
Dr. Von Wurst, at my humble home in the Quartier Latin, On the 
road I broke it very gently to him that my fellow lodger was an 
amateur cook. Prussians are very proud, you know ; they were 
prouder than usual at that particular epoch. Dr. Von Wurst 
laughed. ' I don't care how the food's cooked,' he said, brutally, 
'as long as there's plenty to eat.' As we ascended the stairs, a 
delicious odor assailed our nostrils. There was Magloire in his 
Sunday clothes ; he looked much more like a marquis than a cook. 
He received Dr. Von Wurst with effusion ; he bowed, he gesticulated, 
he smiled — there seemed something treacherous and diabolical in 
that smile of his ; and I noticed that he never shook hands with the 
Prussian. The table was decorated with flowers ; there was a writtea 
menu on it which ran as follows : 

Suail vSoup a la Trochu. 

Pied de Mouton a la Gambetta, 

Pigeons ^ la Franc-tireur. 

Civit de Lapin a la Magloire. 

Confitures Diverses. 

"I must confess Dr. Von Wurst swaggered in an offensive 
manner ; but my friend Magloire bore it bravely. The German was 
helped twice to snail soup. 

" 'We did not live like this during the war,' he said with a great 
laugh. And then the conversation turned to cpoks and cookery. 
And then the miserable German was guilty of a wretched epigram : 
'Every man should stick to his trade,' he said, with his mouth full 
oipied de mouton a la Gambetta; 'we Germans are soldiers born — 



THE INNER NIAN 23 

haw ! haw ! — Frenchmen should leave fighting alone and stick to 
cookery, the finest of the fine arts. That's where they shine.' 

" AI. Magloire made a horrible grimace and helped the doctor 
liberally to^a great plateful of the rich and fragrant stew entitled civit 
de lapin a la Magloire. For full five minutes my German friend did 
not speak a word. He ate — how he ate !— silently, enthusiastically, 
voraciously ; and then he held out his plate for more. He picked 
the bones, he mopped up the rich gravy with his bread, and then he 
had a third helping, and he finished the entire dishful. ' I never 
tasted anything like it he said,' and there were tears of gratitude in 
his eyes. 

" 'I don't suppose you ever did,' said M. Magloire, dryly. 
' France is avenged,' he whispered to me behind his hand. 

" Then the German gorged himself with co7ifitures, and drank a 
good deal more than his share of the wine. ' I verily believe, ' said 
Dr. Von Wurst, turning a little pale, ' that I have eaten too much 
breakfast.' 

"A dreadful thought passed through my mind. Had Magloire 
poisoned him ? 

" We were alone, and then M. Magloire began to laugh, until I 
thought he had gone mad ; my friend, the cook, must have laughed 
fully five minutes by the clock. When he left off laughing I asked 
him what he meant by his mysterious statement that France was 
avenged. 

" 'Swear that you will not betray me, my friend, and I will 
tell you.' 

" I gave the required pledge. 

*' 'You have not seen Mephistopheles to-day,' he said in a 
whisper, ' at least, not to recognize him. Last night,' he went on, 
' last night he died. I slew him — alone and unarmed. I did it. 
Mephistopheles is dead, my friend, and I have buried him, all except 
his skin and head, in a living tomb. The man — that German man 
with the unpronounceable name, that man who has insulted my 
country and my noble profession — has swallowed the mortal remains 
of Mephistopheles ; he is now digesting him. I hope it will disagree 
with him ; and I don't think it will. A Prussian medical student, 
sir, can digest anything, even a tomcat. Hadn't we better have a 
glass of Chartreuse ? ' " 



A Napa Soda Lemonade is a Luxury 



24 I'HB INNEbi IVLA-N 

KL MONTE HOTEL.— The nearest and most delightful sub- 
urb of San Francisco is Sausalito. Within a few years the growth 
of this seaside resort has been unequaled. The hills facing the 
bay have been dotted with handsome villas, many of them as 
imposing and costly as the homes of San Francisco. The principal 
hotel of Sausalito has been for years the " El Monte," J. E. Slinkey, 
proprietor. It has kept pace with the progress of the town. Mr. 
Slinkey, with commendable enterprise, has every year added to the 
El Monte, for the increasing popularity of Sausalito as a Summer- 
abiding place, demanded a first-class family hotel, comfortable, well 
kept, and suitable for transient as well as permanent occupation. 
The "El Monte" is located on the most inviting spot in the vicinity 
of San Francisco. It is surrounded with spacious and well kept 
gardens, and the trees, which have such an abundant growth in 
this portion of Marin County, have been carefully preserved with 
the view of affording that shade so pleasing and necessary in 
the warm daj^s of Summer. The view from the verandahs of the El 
Monte is exceptionally fine. To the west lies San Francisco, and 
in the middle distance Alcatraz with its frowning batteries, and 
picturesque citadel. Northward, Mount Tamalpais lifts its grizzled 
head in that purple haze, peculiar to the California atmosphere. To 
the eastward is Angel Island, with the military port. Camp Rey- 
nolds, snugly established between two sheltering ridges, and to the 
northeast Raccoon Straits and the full sweep of Richardson's Bay 
are disclosed. The attractions which the El Monte offers its hab- 
itats are numerous. They comprise everything that one may expect 
in the country. In the first place the rooms are neat, well ventilated 
and well furnished, not alone with what is ordinarily compre- 
hended in the word, but nearly all have a portion of this grand, 
marine picture of island, bay and shipping. Then the boating, 
fishing, sea-bathing and romantic walks along winding and wooded 
paths with ever}' few yards novel and ever varying glimpses of the 
sea, combine to make this place of rest and enjoyment complete. 
The drives in the vicinity are incomparably fine. Over the hills to 
Point Bonita, where the lighthouse stands on a a jutting crag, 
lashed by the great waves rolling in from the ocean, is one of the 
most attractive. Along the bay shore to Mill Valley where groves 
of huge redwood trees still exist, and where the road winds to the 
summit of Tamalpais; to San Rafael, through Ross Valley, and on 
toward Nicasio if an extended trip is desired, are among the many 
points of interest which the sojourner at the El Monte may enjoy. 



THE INIMER IVIAN 25 

About the grounds are handsome and well arranged cottages for 
families desiring more privacy than the hotel affords. Another 
advantage is its proximity to the steamer landing. About five 
minutes from the starting hour gives one quite time enough to 
get comfortably aboard. The climate here is unsurpassed. There 
are no shrill, biting winds, and no fog. The huge masses of mist 
which in Summer roll in through the Golden Gate, halt on the sum- 
mits of the lofty hills in the rear, but never descend upon the mesa 
where the El Monte stands. There are hot and cold salt water 
baths attached to the hotel, and every modern convenience to make 
the visitor's stay agreeable. 

BERGEZ'S RESTAURANT.— In the very heart of the busi- 
ness part of the city is the Bergez restaurant, 334 Pine street. 
There are few caterers better known on this coast than John Ber- 
gez. Himself an epicure and a sportsman, he knows just what 
epicures and sportsmen need. Therefore Bergez's is the favorite 
resort of the anglers of San Francisco, who, over the well spread 
table, relate incidents of stream and lake which add a jest to the 
repast. Bergez is noted for the great variety and great excellence 
of the cuisine. Monsieur Jean himself is an early visitant to the 
markets where he selects good things for the inner man, fish fresh 
from the ocean — delicate pompano, Spanish mackerel, delicious 
sole, and the plumpest of poultry, and the tenderest of beef and 
mutton. It is difficult, by the way, in this connection to conceive 
of a place where one can get a sole au gratin to excel those in del- 
icacy of preparation and artistic service sent forth from Bergez's 
kitchen. In the game season the array of wild fowl is always verj- 
tempting at this cosy retreat. Mallard, canvas, sprig, snipe, every- 
thing in the line of marsh bird that the season affords may be found 
at Bergez's. The private dining-rooms for ladies and families are 
quite comfortable, and the service there, as in the main dining-hall, 
without reproach. The Bergez waiters indeed are noted for their 
attention and ability, and their anxiety to make the guests of Mon- 
sieur Jean perfectly at home. The wines are particularly well 
chosen. In Bergez's cellar rest some of the very nicest products of 
our Californix vintages and some fine old Burgundies from across 
the water and which, when the cork is drawn, exude an aroma of 
the most delightful fragrance. A peculiarity about the patrons of 
the restaurant is, that when they have been accustomed to the cuis- 
ine they desire no other. They never change. Week after week, 



Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



26 THE IMNER MAN 

month after month, and j^ear after year, one sees the same famil- 
iar faces at John's tables, which is one of the best indications of the 
even quality of solids, wines and cooking. There are so many 
nice things served at this restaurant that it would be difficult to 
give any one the preference. A cool salad, preceded by a tasty 
soup, and followed by a roast mallard, the same washed down 
with a bottle of John's Burgundy, is a repast which much con- 
duces to longevity. The sweetbread pates in this house are also 
most excellent, as indeed are all the delicate petit plats which one 
chooses for an entree. The salads are superb. The knack of mix- 
ing a delicious salad seems hereditary in this restaurant. Although 
a change of waiters seldom occurs, yet when a new man comes in 
he seems to catch the art and makes no mistake in the blending of 
those condiments which make a cool, crisp salad, a dish which can 
be appreciated at all times. The situation of the restaurant is also 
fortunate. That portion of Pine street is quiet as far as wagons 
are concerned, though thronged with the busy men of the stock 
market, and being on the north side is sunny, well lighted, and 
in every respect sweet and pleasant. The lunch hour is perhaps 
the busiest of the day, and then one sees around the tables the 
faces of men whose names are a familiar household word in the 
financial history of this city and State, 

WILLIAM M. DUNPHY.— Among those gentlemen of the 
Pacific Coast who thoroughly understand the art of furnishing the 
"Inner Man" is William M. Dunphy, Esq., the cattle king of the 
Pacific Coast. Mr. Dunphy is a pioneer Californian, and has been 
prominently identified with the cattle interests since the days of '49. 
His rancho La Posa in the southern portion of Monterey County is 
a typical California ranch. The Salinas River flows through it, and 
upon its fertile hills graze thousands of the finest cattle in the State. 
His domain in Humboldt County, consisting of 175,000 acres and 
80,000 acres leased with privilege of purchase, all fenced in and 
watered by the Green River, would be considered in Europe a prin- 
cipality. 

A rodeo, or round up and parting out of cattle on the La 
Posa ranch, is always a period of extensive and quaint festivity. 
Mr, Dunphy 's friends for miles around are bidden to the feast, and 
to those unacquainted with old California customs, the scene is a 
most novel and picturesque one. A huge trench is dug in a shady 
grove, and filled with oak logs. The Spanish attendants then pro- 



THE INNER MAN 27 

ceed to roast prime beeves whole and fat sheep on a gigantic spit, 
suspended over the fragrant embers. Meanwhile others are preparing 
a plat, indigenous to and much esteemed at these gatherings- the 
heads of bullocks, which have been cooking all of the night previous 
in a hole in the ground, lined with rocks and heated by great fires, 
When the fire is removed the bullock heads, wrapped in sacks, are 
lowered in, covered over, and permitted to bake until morning. This 
savory dish is served with a sauce, composed of green chilis, onions, 
tomatoes, and deliciously seasoned. A feast of this nature at Mr. 
Dunphy's hospitable ranch is an occasion to be remembered. Of 
course the liquids flow in quantities as large as the viands. Nor do 
the festivities cease with the night, for the guests are usually bidden 
to a week's visit, or, indeed, just as long as they choose to remain. 
This unbounded hospitality is a delightful feature of California life; 
but, like many of the old customs, is falling into disuse. The part- 
ing out of the cattle next morning, and the daring riding of the 
vaqueros, serve to amuse Mr. Dunphy's visitors until the approach of 
evening witnesses a renewal of the feast. 

The I^a Posa ranch is a veritable picture of beauty. On the 
west it is bordered by the Coast Mountains, rising to an altitude of 
several thousand feet. Along the margin of the Salinas River, and 
almost for its entire length across the ranch, the magnificent growth 
of live-oak trees are an evidence of the great richness of the soil. 
The water supply is most abundant ; five wells sunk in as many 
different enclosures with windmills and large tanks, furnishing this 
most important feature of a successful ranch. An enclosure of 
several hundred acres is used by Mr. Dunphy as a deer-park, and is 
so well stocked that any of his guests who can handle a rifle with 
moderate skill, may be sure of a fat buck, any morning, with a reason- 
able amount of exertion. 



Napa Soda Water Cures Dyspepsia 




CHAPTER IV 

How Port Wine is Made — The Casa dos IjAgares of the Juinta — A Gang of 
Sixty Tkeadeks at Work — The Beating of the Wine. 



f IZETELLY, the celebrated wine expert, in a series of 
'// letters to the Pall Mall Gazette, which were afterward 
published in book form, gives some very interesting 
descriptions of port wine making on the Upper Douro. The 
Juinta do Sexixo which he visited in the height of the vint- 
age, is entered through an imposing gateway, surrounded by the 
armorial bearings of its owner. From the roomy terrace where the 
casa and lagares are situated one looks down upon a long flight of 
descending terraces of vines, dotted over with a score or two of vint- 
agers singing one of their favorite ditties. Among the singers are 
detected many countenances the exact counterpart of faces met with 
in Sligo, and in the wilds of Connemara. Jewish faces also are not 
uncommon, while as regards the few moderately good looking 
women, it is evident that Moorish blood courses through their veins. 
The latter have the prim and graceful carriage, the almond shaped 
eye and straightish eyebrow, the regular white teeth, and rich trans- 
parent olive complexion peculiar to their race. Several of them 
— barelegged, coarsely clad, uncleanly, and unkempt though they 
were — wore handsome filigree brooches and ear-rings of antique Mau- 
resque design, it being a common practice with the women of their' 
class to invest their savings in trinkets of this description in order to 
escape the importunities of impecunious relatives, bent upon bor- 
rowing from all who are known to hoard. 

While the women are busy gathering the grapes, the men, with 
heavily laden baskets, continue ascending the steep steps at the ends 
of the taller terraces, frequently twelve feet in height, and then file 
off with their burdens to the lagares, the largest of which has to be 
filled by noon. Across this lagar, planks are placed for the vint- 
agers to walk on when shooting the grapes into the remoter corners, 
whereby the crushing of the fruit already in the lagar, and any pre- 
mature fermentation of the juice thus exuded, is avoided. 



THE INNER NIAN 29 

When the midday meal is over, the grapes having been already • 
spread perfectly level in the lagar, a band of sixty men is told ofiF to 
tread them. The casa dos lagares is a long building with a low 
pointed roof, lighted with square openings along the side, and con- 
tains four lagares, in the largest of which sufficient grapes can be 
trodden at one time to produce thirty pipes of wine. As is univer- 
sally the case in the Upper Douro, these lagares are of stone, and 
about three feet in depth. In front of each, and on a lower level, is 
a small stone reservoir, called a Jorno, into which the expressed 
juice flows after the treading of the grapes is concluded, and which 
communicates by pipes with the huge tonels in the adega below, 
although not beneath the lagares. In front of the lagares runs a 
narrow stone ledge to which ascent is gained by a few steps, and 
here while the treading is going on the overseers post themselves 
long staves in hand, in order to see that everyone performs his proper 
share of labor. The treaders, with their white breeches well tucked 
up, mount into the lagar where they form three separate rows of ten 
men each on either side of the overhanging beam, and placing their 
arms on each other's shoulders commence work by raising and low- 
ering their feet alternately, calling out as they do so, " right, left," 
varying this after a time with songs and shoutiiigs in order to keep 
the weaker and the lazier ones up to the work, which is quite as irk. 
some and monotonous as either treadmill or prison crank. But the 
lagariros have something more than singing or shouting to encour- 
age them. Taking part with them in the treading is a little band 
of musicians with drum, fife, fiddle and guitar, who strike up a 
lively tune while their comrades chime in, some by whistling, others 
with castanets. Occasionally, too, nips of brandy are served out, 
and the overseers present cigarettes all round, whereupon the 
treaders vary their monotonous movements with ^ brisker measure. 

This first treading — the sovar o vinho, or beating of the wine, as 
it is called — lasts, with occasional respites, and relays of fresh men 
for eighteen hours. A long interval now ensues, and then the tread- 
ing or beating is resumed. By this time the grapes are pretty well 
crushed, and walking over the pips and stalks strewn at the bottom 
of the lagar becomes something like the pilgrimages of old, when 
the devout trudged wearily along with hard peas packed between 
the soles of their feet and the soles of their shoes. The lagariros, 
with their garments more or less bespattered with grape juice, move 
slowly about in their Mauve colored, mucilaginous bath in a listless 
kind of way, now smoking cigarettes, now with their arms folded or 



Indigestion Dies where Napa Soda Lives 



30 THE INNER IvIAN 

thrown behind their backs, or with their hands tucked in their waist- 
coat pockets, or raised up to their chins while they support the 
elbow of one arm with the hand of another. The fiddle strikes up 
anew, the drum sounds, the fife squeaks, the guitar tinkles, and the 
overseers drowsily upbraid. But all to no purpose. Music has lost 
its inspiration, and authority its terrors, and the men, dead, beat raise 
one purple leg languidly after the other. 

By the time the treading is completed, the violent fermentation of 
the must has commenced, and is left to flow its course. According 
as the grapes are moderately or over ripe, and the atmospheric tem- 
perature is high or low, and it is intended that the wine shall be 
sweet or dry, this fermentation will be allowed to continue for a 
shorter or longer period, varying from fifteen hours to several days, 
during which time the husks and the stalks of the grapes, rising to 
the surface of the must, form a thick incrustation. To ascertain the 
proper moment for drawing the wine off into the tonels, recourse is 
usually had to a saccharometer, when, if this marks four or five 
degrees, the farmer knows that the wine will be sweet; if a smaller 
number of degrees be indicated the wine will be moderately sweet, 
while zero signifies that the wine will be dry. Some farmers judge 
the state of the fermentation by the appearance of the wine on the 
conventional white porcelain saucer and the vinous smell and flavor 
which it then exhibits. When it is ascertained that the wine has 
sufficiently fermented, it is at once run off into large tonels, hold- 
ing their ten to thirty pipes each, the mosto extracted from the 
musks of the grapes by the application of the huge beam press being 
mixed with the expressed juice resulting from the treading.. It is 
now that brandy — not poisonous Berlin potato spirit, but spirit dis- 
tilled from the juice of the grape — is added at the rate of five and 
one-half gallons to eleven gallons per pipe, if desired that the wine 
should retain its sweetness. Should, however, the wine be already 
dry, the chances are that it will receive no spirit at all. The bungs 
are left out of the tonels until November, when they are tightly 
replaced, and the wine remains undisturbed until the cold weather 
sets in, usually during the month of December. Bj- this time the 
wine has cleared and become of a dark purple hue. It is now drav.n 
off" its lus and returned again to the tonel, where it receives about 
five gallons of brandy per pipe. In the following March it will 
be racked into pipes, preparatory to be sent down the Douro to the 
wine-shippers' lodges at Villa Nova de Gaia. A great quantity of 
the wine vintaged in the Upper Douro is shipped to Aporto in the 



THE INNER ^4AN 



31 



ensuing Spring from Pinhao, although many growers ship their 
wines at favorable points of the river, contiguous to their own 
quintas. The pipes are sent down from the adegas fastened with 
ropes on to bullock carts, the massive framework, and low solid 
iron-tired wheels of which are much the same pattern as in the days 
of the Romans. The powerful oxen have a difficult task of it in 
restraining the too rapid descent down the fearfully steep and rugged 
roads with the dead weight behind them always compelling them 
forward. 

The yoke is fixed to the horns of the oxen, instead of to their 
necks, and is provided with a leather cushion — often set off with a long 
fringe — to prevent it from chaffing their foreheads. Were the yokes 
fixed in the usual manner to their necks, the chances are that the 
animals would be throttled while ascending or descending these 
steep mountain tracks. The wheels and axles of the cart revolve 
together, screeching loudly. The peasants say this unearthly sound, 
known as the "chilareda," frightens the wolves and would scare 
away the devil, which is not unlikely, if he has only a moderately 
sensitive ear. It certainly has one advantage ; in the narrow moun- 
tain track you hear the cart coming a long way off, and are able to 
look out for a place where it is possible for it to pass without unhors- 
ing you. When the bullock cart has arrived on the strand, the pipe 
is gently lowered on to the sand, and then rolled up a plank laid 
against the side of the high-prowed, flat-bottomed boat which is to 
receive it on board. If the incline is very steep ropes are had 
recourse to. These Douro wine boats are of various sizes, some of 
them carrying as few as ten and others as many as eighty pipes. 
The charge of carrying a pipe down to Aporto, is ten shillings 
exclusive of the cost of getting it to the boat and the landing of it at 
Villa Nova de Gaia. During the voyage the boat has to ascend 
numerous rapids, the approach to which is signalled by the steersman 
by the shouts of " Arezonde ! " whereupon the oarsmen raise their 
oars out of the water and the steersman, standing upon the stern- 
posts and, looking ahead to avoid the sunken rocks, firmly grips the 
tiller, whereon depends the safety of the boat and its cargo. Sud- 
denly the vessel is precipitated down the rapid, when, with a sing'e 
jerk, the steersman swings its head round, while a couple of agile 
men at the prow sound the bottom of the river with their long poles. 
The Douro boatmen are very chatty and cheerful, and frequently 
converse among themselves in a song, the words of which they impro- 
vise as the occasion may require. They are very strict in the observ- 



Ladies Drink Napa Soda for Complexion 



32 THE INNER IvI AN 

ance of their religious duties, and whenever a saint is passed, perched 
on the summit of the cliffs bordering the river, they bare their heads 
and repeat a short prayer. Before commencing a meal, too, they 
will stand up and uncover themselves, and devoutly say grace. 
Their hardest toil is in ascending the river with a cargo of empty 
pipes, as then the boat has to be turned against the powerful current- 
The unloading and reloading of the cargo, too, whenever the vessel 
gets aground or the numerous rapids have to be ascended, is both a 
tedious and laborious affair. 

THE HOTEL DEL MONTE.— The Hotel Del Monte is the 
queen seaside resort of the West. It is the great objective point of 
the tourist, the Mecca of the traveler from other lands. It is no 
exaggeration to say that it is the most beautiful, the best managed 
and the most surprisingly economical hotel in the world. This 
sounds big, but it is a fact which will be confirmed by everyone who 
has tarried under its hospitable roof To quote from a writer whose 
judgment in these matters is of large value and who has traveled 
much, "no seaside hotel upon the Atlantic Coast can approach its 
plan of exterior, while its interior design and finish display the 
same refined taste and lavish use of wealth. In a word, the proprietors 
of this beautiful retreat had no other aim than to supplement nature 
by art." 

The architecture of the Del Monte is of modern gothic, and 
favors space — breathing room, nothing cramped or confined, but 
everything open, expansive and comfortable. A correspondent of 
the Boston Journal speaks thus: "the three days we spent at the 
Hotel Del Monte, Monterey — a place it is hard to classify because of 
its exceeding loveliness — made the pleasantest memory we had of 
California. We have nothing at home that ap])roaches the exquisite 
setting of this exquisite house. The Pacific all along this coast 
seems to wear constantly that dazzling sapphire blue which we see 
at home only at special times — the sky carries out the same superb 
color with a glow and depth of sunshine superadded, which is almost 
too brilliant for belief — a series of curving beaches of shining snowy 
white sand, covered here and there, even down to the water's edge, 
by a growth of the most picturesque trees of this continent." 

It is needless to say that the grounds are all t'nat the taste and 
skill of the best land.scape gardener, procurable in the country, could 
make them. He has over fifty under gardeners to carry out his 
instructions. The sea-bathing at Monterey is exquisite ; one may 



THE INNER NIAN 33 

take the choice between surf and smooth water, and for those who are 
too timid to face the outside, there are warm sea-water tanks under 
cr>'stal roofs, graded to different temperatures for the guests of the 
Del Monte. This bathing establishment is the largest and best 
arranged on the Pacific Coast. A brief enumeration of its facilities 
will give one an idea of its extent. There are two hundred and ten 
dressing-rooms, one-half of which are set apart for ladies, each with 
a double apartment — one for dressing and the other for a shower-bath. 
The main building which contains the tanks of fresh steam- heated 
salt water, is well furnished with accommodations for those who 
wish to amuse themselves with the gambols, and admire the bathers. 

The drives in the vicinity of the Del Monte are many and 
various. Monterey is the most historic town in California, and on 
every side are encountered objects teeming with strange reminis- 
cences of the Spanish occupation. On the sea drive one passes the 
old fort from which the cannon of his most Christian Majestj^ once 
thundered. Further on is the spot where the good Father Junipero 
Serra landed over a century ago. Then comes the Mission founded 
by that pioneer Franciscan, overlooking Carmelo Bay ; while the 
rocky headlands of Point Lobes, and the drooping forms of the 
Sierra of the Santa Lucia appear in the distant blue beyond. In the 
churchyard of this ancient place repose the remains of fifteen govern- 
ors of this Province and State, and the dust of the apostle who 
founded it, also rests here — a fitting tomb — the scene of his labor in 
the cause of Christianity and civilization. 

To describe the fascination of this locality would far exceed the 
capacity of this volume. It is the great attraction of the tourist and 
sightseer and anyone who journeys to the Pacific Coast from any 
quarter of the world in search of pleasure or health, or both, must 
make a sojourn at the Del Monte, and a period spent among its 
romantic and attractive surroundings, is one of the most important 
features of his tour. 

Monterey has some well established claims to the possession of 
a dr}^ and invigorating atmosphere. The temperature is even all the 
year round ; of course the old city is not exempt irom a touch of 
the spring and summer fogs usual to most coast districts, but there is 
nothing unhealthy about those visitations. They keep the foliage 
green, and when the sun comes forth everything is fresh and glowing 
as after a spring shower in the Eastern states The winters are as 
delightful as the summer months. The air is clear and invigorating, 



Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



34 THE INNER IVIAN 

and there is no exaggeration in saying that one may bathe in the 
open sea all the year round without any inconvenience. A dis- 
tinguished Eastern physician, who is familiar with all the pleasure 
resorts of the United States and the Old World has said " California 
has many health resorts deserving more than passing notice, but my 
present object is to call the attention of the profession to the signal 
attractions presented by Monterey as a winter resort for invalids who 
require equability of climate, and a pure invigorating atmosphere. 

I.OUIS SlyOSS & CO.— One of the most important industries 
in connection with food supplies is salmon-canning. This has been 
carried on for a number of years on the Sacramento River in our 
State and on the Columbia River in Oregon, but within the last 
seven or eight years the business has spread so as to now include 
our Alaskan possessions, and indeed these latter have taken first 
place in the extent of yearly output. The firm of lyOuis Sloss & Co. 
of San Francisco, may be considered the pioneers of this industry in 
Alaska. It had been conducted on a small scale until thej^ organized 
the Karluk Packing Company, whose Horseshoe Brand has always 
been known as the prize brand of Alaska canned salmon. The largest 
pack ever made in one year by any cannery was at this place, 
amounting to 101,000 cases, of which 80,000 cases were purchased 
by one house for the English market. Since the original company 
this firm has established five other similar enterprises, as follows : 
The Nushagak Canning Company (Moosehead Brand), atNushagak; 
The Northern Packing Company (Anchor Brand), at Kenai; The 
Pacific Packing Company (National Brand) at Kodiak; The Royal 
Packing Company (Chieftain Brand), at Afognak; The Thin Point 
Packing Company (Coleman Flag Brand), at Thin Point; and at 
these canneries has produced fully one-third of the annual pack of 
Alaska salmon. The introduction of this product was attended with 
considerable difficulty at first, owing to the natural prejudices of 
trade against a new article. In color, the fish is of a deeper red than 
Columbia or vSacramento River fish, its meat is firmer, and since the 
public has appreciated its virtues as a cheap and wholesome food, its 
sale has increased wonderfully. As at first, England is our largest 
customer, but now the consumption in the United States has gradually 
grown until it has assumed proportions that argue well for the stabil- 
ity of the business in the future. 



THE) INNER IvIAN 35 

W. W. ERSKINE. — After a plenteous repast when the inner man 
is at peace with all the world and the cares of life become shadowy 
and indistinct, nothing is more keenly relished than a good cigar. 
Now comes the question, where is the best place to procure such a 
luxury ? There are cigars and cigars, and. the keenest judge is apt 
to be deceived by the appearance of the weed until he has got it 
between his teeth and inhaled its aroma. W. W. Erskine, on the 
southwest corner of Bush and Montgomery streets, has a class of 
customers who appreciate a good smoke, and who unhesitatingly 
apply to him for the gratification of that taste. Mr. Erskine is a 
•direct importer from Havana, and handles the very finest qualities 
of those cigars. He has not alone the favorite brands of the past, 
but everything new in the line of fine cigars is found in his place. 
The same may be said of his tobaccos and cigarettes. There is 
an abundance to choose from, and should the purchaser be in doubt, 
Mr. Erskine can give him a useful hint — the advice of a connoisseur 
in regard to his selection. The result is that he has the satisfaction of 
furnishing some of the very best cigar epicures in San Francisco 
with their smoking material. The "weed" is really inseparable from 
that comfort which pervades the material part of humanity when the 
cares of the day, soothed by wholesome refection, are cremated in a 
good cigar and vanish in smoke. Mr. Erskine furnishes just that 
sort of a comforter. 



Do you Drink ? Then Napa Soda is your Tipple 




CHAPTER V. 

Eatiko and Drinking in Egypt — How thk Food is Prepared — Table 
Habits of the Early Egyptians. 

HE EGYPTIANS never committed the same excesse>i 
"^ as the Romans under the Empires, but they gave wax- 
to intemperance and luxury after the Persian conquests, 
and the accession of the Ptolomies ; so that writers who 
mention them at that period, describe the Egyptians as 
a profligate, and luxurious people, addicted to an immoderate 
love of the table, and to every excess in drinking. They 
even used excidants for this purpose, and hors d' cnivres were 
provided to stimulate the appetite ; crude cabbage, provoking the 
desire for wine, and the continuation of excess. As is the custom in 
Egypt, and other hot countries, at the present day, the)' cooked the 
meat as soon as killed ; with the same view of having it tender, 
which makes northern people keep it until decomposition is begin- 
ning ; and this explains the order of Joseph to " slay and make 
ready " for his brethren to dine with him the same day at noon. As^ 
soon, therefore, as this had been done, and the joints were all ready, 
the kitchen represented an animated scene, and the cooks were bu.'-y 
in their different departments. One regulated the heat of the fire, 
raising it with a poker, or blowing it with bellows, worked b}'- the 
feet ; another superintended the cooking of tlie meat, skimming the 
water with a spoon, or stirring it with a large fork, while a third 
pounded salt, pepper, or other ingredients, in a large mortar, which 
were added from time to time during this process. Liquids of various 
kinds also stood ready for use, which were sometimes drawn off by 
means of siphons ; and those things they wished to raise beyond the* 
reach of rats or other intruders, were placed upon trays, and pulled 
lip by ropes running through rings in the ceiling, answering the 
purposes of a safe. Other servants took charge of the pastry, 
which the bakers or confectioners had made for the dinner table, 
and this department, which may be considered as attached to 
the kitchen, appears even more varied than that of the cook. 
Some sifted and mixed the flour, others kneaded the paste 



THE IXXER MA.lsi 37 

with their hands, and formed it into rolls, which were then 
prepared for baking and being placed on a long tray or board, were 
carried on a man's head to the oven. Sometimes they kneaded the 
paste with their feet, having placed it in a large wooden bowl on the 
ground ; it was then in a more liquid state than when mixed by the 
hands, and was carried in vases to the pastry-cook, who formed it 
into a sort of a maccaroni upon a shallow metal pan over the fire. 
Two persons were engaged in this process; one stirringvit with a 
wooden patula. and the other taking it off when cooked, with two 
pointed sticks, who arranged it in a proper place where the re.st of 
the pastr}- was kept. This last was of various kinds, apparenth^ 
made up with fruit, or other ingredients, with which the dough, 
spread out by tte hand, was sometimes mixed, and it assumed the 
shape of a three-cornered cake, a recumbent ox, a leaf, a crocodile's 
liead, a heart, or any other form according to the fanc}' of the con- 
fectioner. That dinner was served up at midday, may be inferred 
bv the invitations given by Joseph to his brethren, but it is probable 
that, like the Romans, they also ate supper in the evening, as is 
still the custom in the East. The table was much the same as that 
of the present day in Egypt : a small stool, supporting a round tray 
on which the dishes are placed ; but it is different from this by 
having its circular summit fixed on a pillar, a leg which was often 
in the form of a man, generally a captive, who supported the slab 
upon his head, the whole being of stone or some hard wood. On 
this the dishes were placed, together with loaves of bread, some of 
which were not unlike those of the present day in Egypt, flat and 
round as our crumpets. Others had the form of rolls or cakes, 
sprinkled with seeds. It was not generalh' covered with any linen ; 
but like the Greek table, was washed with a sponge, or napkin after 
the dishes were removed, and polished bj- the servants, when the 
company had retired ; though an instance sometimes occurs of a 
napkin spread on it, at least on those who bore offerings in honor of 
the dead. One or two guests generalh' sat at a table, though, from 
the mentions of persons, seated in rows according to rank, it has been 
supposed the tables were occasionally of a long shape, as may have 
been the case when the brethren of Joseph "sat before him, the fir.>5t 
one according to his birthright, and the 3'oungest according to his 
youth," Joseph eating alone at another table, where "they set on 
for him by himself." But even if round, they might still sit accord- 
ing to rank, one place being always the post of honor, even at the 
present day, at the round table of Egypt. The tables, as at a Roman 

Ghiradelli's Breakfast Cocoa. The Best 



38 THK IKNER XI AN 

repast, were occasionally brought in and removed, with the dishes 
on them : sometimes each joint was served up separately, and the 
fruit, deposited in a plate or trencher, succeeded the meat at the close 
of dinner; but in less fashionable circles, particularly of the olden 
time, fruit was brought in baskets, which stood beside the table. 
The dishes consisted of fish, meat, boiled, roasted and dressed in 
various wa3\s ; game, poultry, and a profusion of vegetables and 
fruit, particularly, figs and grapes, during the season, and a soup, or 
a pottage of lentils, " as with modern Egyptians," was not an unusual 
dish. Of figs and grapes they were particularly fond, which is shown 
by their con.stant introduction among the choice offerings pre- 
sented to the gods ; and figs of the sycamore must hav^e been highly 
esteemed, since they were selected as the heavenly fruit, given b\' 
the godde.ss Nepte to those who were judged worthy of admission to 
the regions of eternal happiness. Fresh dates during the season and 
dried at other periods of the year, were also brought to table, as 
well as a preserve of the fruit, made into a cake of the same form as 
the tamarinds now brought from the interior of Africa and sold in 
the Cairo market. The guests sat on the ground, or on stools and 
chairs, and having neither knives nor forks, nor any substitute for 
them answering to the chop-sticks of the Chinese, they ate with their 
fingers, like the modern Asiatics, and invariably with the right 
hand ; spoons were introduced when required for soup, or other 
liquids ; and perhaps even a knife was employed on some occasions, 
to facilitate the carving of a large joint, which is sometimes done in 
the East at the present day. 

THE INGLENOOK VINEYARD.— The wines of California 
have had in Captain Gustave Niebaum of the celebrated Ingleuook 
Vineyard, a consistent, intelligent and enthusiastic friend. He has 
made a close study of the best methods of producing the best wines 
and the rules he has adopted are an epitome of the art of the viti- 
culturist. Captain Niebaum says, "To produce the finest wines to 
equal and excel the most famous vintages of Europe, it is necessary 
to have the right kindof vines grown on suitable soils, well manured: 
the most perfect cleanliness in handling, constant care and proper 
age. No art or trick of machinery can make up for the absence of any 
of these things." These certainly are golden rules for the viticul- 
turists and to their strict observance is due the reputation these wines 
have obtained, and the credit they have conferred upon the State as 
a native production. Mr. F, A. Haber, 122 Sansome St., is the sole 
representative for the Inglenook wines, and in 1 884, being then a mem- 



THE INNER NIAN 39 

"ber of the firm of Alfred Greenebaum & Co., and recognized as a con- 
noisseur of marked ability, reported after an exhaustive examination 
of Captain Niebaum's wines upon their qualit}-. Mr. Haber's sug- 
gestions as to blends were followed out ; and then fifty cases of these 
wines were distributed throughout the world to experts. An almost 
unanimous response was received that the wines were good and a sur- 
prise expressed that California could produce such admirable qualities. 

When Mr. Haber visited New York with the object of introduc- 
ing the Inglenook wines to the connoisseurs of the East, his claims 
to possessing an article that might eventually rival the productions 
of the Old World vineyards, were received with incredualty. But 
when the leading members of the foremost importing houses tasted 
the Inglenook wines, they were profuse in their congratulations and 
assured Mr. Haber that they did not believe that California wines 
could attain such excellence. The demand then became immediate 
and the Inglenook wines found a welcome in every large city in the 
Union. To a very cleverly written brochure of the Inglenook vine- 
yard the following extract is due. 

"Sif:uated a few miles from the entrance to the middle section 
of Napa Valle)', Inglenook is a spot of indescribable loveliness in 
the midst of charming surroundings. Those who only know our 
California scenery by a dash over the Sierras and a ride through the 
dusty plains of the San Joaquin, can have no conception of the 
beauties of this magnificent estate. Behind the tree-bowered nook 
from which the place takes its name, rises a chain of mountains. A 
tall cascade leaps down their side, and goes to swell the stream that 
ripples through the floor of the valley. To the north Mount St. 
Helena, a few miles away, rears its head 4,000 feet above the sea 
like a gallant sentinel overlooking an earthly paradise. East are 
ranges of low hills covered with verdure and adorned with evergreen 
tree and shrubs of all kinds from the stalwart oak to the gleaming 
madrono, adding variety and charm to the landscape. South the val- 
ley gradually narrows and then broadens out again into wide ranges 
of vineyards and orchards and vast lordly redwood trees mingle with 
the oak, laurel and pine in decking the sides of some of the grandest 
and loveliest cafions that ever delighted a lover of magnificent sce^er3^ 
The Inglenook Vineyard is situated at Rutherford, Napa County, just 
three hours' run from San Francisco, and visitors are always courte- 
ously received and entertained. Mr. F. A. Haber's office and depot 
is at 122 Sansome street, but he has agents in all the prominent cities 
of the United States, also in London, England. 



A Napa Soda Lemonade is a Luxury 



CHAPTER VI 




The Cuisine of Othek Lands — The Bonne-Bouciie of the African Epicure — 

How Delicacies are Cooked and Served in Tuose Countries — 

What the Japanese and Chinese Consider Their 

Choice Plats — Kanaka Feasts. 

S A RULE in Africa there is only one principal 
meal. It mostly consists of parrot soup, roasted or 
Istewed monkeys, alligator eggs (also well liked by 
t Caucasians), and birds of ever)' description. They 
also have moambo or palm-chops and fish. A great 
delicacy, so considered by Caucasians and natives 
alike, is elephant's trunk and feet. Thej' have 
somewhat the taste of veal, and a ver}- delicious 
flavor. To prepare them they dig a hole, about five 
feet deep, in the sand and build in it a large fire. 
After the sand is thoroughly heated, the fire is removed, leaving only 
the ashes in the hole. They place the trunk and feet in this hole 
covering them with leaves, and afterwards hot sand ; they remain 
there about two hours when they are considered done. All carcasses 
of animals which are to be cooked, are placed on a block of wood, and 
pounded until every bone is broken, care being taken not to tear or 
bruise the .skin. They are then broiled or roasted on an open wood 
fire, in hot sand or ashes, without removing the hide or feathers. The 
cooking is of a very inferior grade, the only .spices used being salt and 
pepper. The kitchen utensils consist of common earthen or wooden 
ware. Ver}- little time is spent in decorating the table. Knives, 
forks, napkins, etc., etc., are dispensed with. All victuals are served 
in large wooden vessels. After the members of the chief's house- 
hold and guests have assembled, each person is supplied with a 
wooden spoon, and selects whatever he chooses out of the different 
vessels, using his hands in eating it. In the line of vegetables they 
have also several dishes well liked by Caucasians. N'gutti-N'suigo 
is a dish eaten all over Africa. It consists of egg-plant, small fish, 
somewhat like our sardines (N'suigo), and the roots of the cassava 
or manioca plant (called N'gutti), which have a knotty appearance 
and often weigh as much as twenty pounds. As the latter contains 
poison, they soak the manioca in water for three or four davs to 



Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate, The Best 



44 THE; INNEK NIAM 

extract the poisonous substance. They are cut and sliced, adding 
small tomatoes. All is placed in a vessel with water, and seasoned 
with pepper and salt and boiled. Moambo, or, as the Caucasians 
call it, palm-chops, is also a favorite dish. The palm-nuts are first 
boiled in water, until the pulpy substance loosens from the pit; 
then the shell, which contains a very delicious oil, is placed in a 
wooden mortar and crushed so as to obtain the oil. Then whatever 
the meal consists of, meat, fish, mussels, etc., is put in a vessel, 
adding the oil and the pulpy part of the palm-nut, also red pepper 
and salt, and is boiled. Roast or boiled squash (Loenge) is gener- 
ally eaten with it. Sweet potatoes (M'balla Burga) farinaceous, 
and sweeter than ours, but do not taste so good. They are boiled 
or roasted in the same way we do here. Bananas (Bitaebe) weigh 
about a half pound each and are fifceen inches long. When ripe 
they are cut in slices adding much salt and pepper and boiled. 
N'smsi is a little red bean, which is boiled in water without salt or 
pepper. Peanut bread (Chisulu): the peanuts are first roasted, then 
crushed. This mass is then rolled and put into the skin of a 
banana, adding a little pressure, forming it into a body. It readily 
retains this shape from the presence of the oil}' substance in the pea- 
nut. 

As to the Chinese at their formal dinners or feasts, no menus are 
used. The bill of fare consists of an interminable list of dishes. 
The tables are laid with such dishes as shark-fins, beche-de-raer 
fish, fish soup, chicken soup, duck soup, rice, rice, rice, and tea, 
tea, tea, and tea; not forgetting the edible birds' nests, candies and 
cakes. One's appetite is almost taken away on entering a Chinese 
house at which a banquet is to be given, the effect of burning incense 
and other vile herbs. The Chinese can be extremely polite. Cham- 
pagne is a favorite drink among the Chinese oflicials at the Treaty 
Ports, and is always brought out when they have a foreign guest. 

A most delicious sauce which the Japanese call " Thoyw," which 
is the basis of Worcestershire Sauce, is also used to give spice to the 
food. Throughout the repast the guests are served from time to 
time with " Saki," a pale liquor made from rice, and which tastes 
very much like sherry. It is served hot and is a most insinuating 
tipple. In a large party you are expected to exchange cups and 
drink with every one present. The result is that, in nine cases out 
of ten, you leave the house "just a wee bit fu', " as they say in 
Scotland. Like the Chinese, no forks, knives or napkins are used — • 
''chop-sticks" only. To smack your lips or belch during the feast is, 



THE INNER NIAN 45 

strange to say of such a supremel}'- polite people, not considered bad 
form. In Corea Chinese fashions are very closely followed. Greasy 
messes and appetite-desti-oying smells are their most characteristic 
features. The food is always conveyed to the mouth by the aid of 
"chop-sticks," and during the progress of a meal the mind becomes 
catered to by an animated conversation. 

Among the Kanakas, the food eaten for breakfast, lunch and 
dinner, is about the same, and consists chiefly of the native dish 
called "Poi," which is eaten whenever they (the Kanakas) are 
hungry. "Poi" is made from a root called "Taro," and in shape 
and size resembles a raw beet. It has a dark skin, and the vege- 
table itself has a variety of colors — pink, gray, purple and white. 
The "Taro" is cooked in the ground after the manner of a " New 
England clam-bake"; after obtaining the softness of a cooked potato 
it is peeled and beaten with a large stone or iron made for that pur- 
pose into a pulp. It is then mixed with water until it forms the 
thickness of a paste (and which makes a very good paste as it is 
often used to stick bills, etc., when a theatrical company arrives), 
and after standing a few days, to allow it to ferment, it is ready to 
be eaten. The "Poi" is always eaten out of a "Calabash" (a large 
gourd about the size of a pumpkin), the natives always eating with 
their fingers, this being done by sticking the two fore-fingers into 
the "Calabash," giving it one or two twists and dexterously turn- 
ing it around in front of their faces until it looks like a ball of "taffy 
on a stick" (no pun intended). "Taro" is sometimes cooked and 
eaten like potatoes and is considered verv wholesome food. The 
next important dish is ''Raw Fish,'''' which are caught along the 
coast and eagerly eaten by the natives. Fish is also cooked in the 
ground and is served on large leaves about the size of palm leaves, 
cal'ed "Ti" leaves. Raw meat, raw liver and fragrant seaweed 
form delicate side dishes. Coffee, within the last few years, has to a 
grert extent been drank as a beverage, but not so much as the 
Hawaiian tea, which tastes and smells like medicine. Vegetables 
are also eaten, but sparingly, comprising sweet potatoes, Irish pota- 
toes, cabbages, etc. Fruit, the product of the islands, is very much 
eaten and relished, such as guavas, mangoes, mountain apples, 
bananas, oranges, etc. The Hawaiians, when eating, alwa5's sit on 
mats. All eat out of the same calabash. After eating, it is the cus- 
tom to pass the pipe of friendship, which is a small pipe made from 
shark's teeth. 



Napa Soda Water Cures Dyspepsia 




CHAPTER VII 

TiiE DiscuVKRv OB" Cha.mi*.\.gn'k — A-V Old Tkadition of Ivi;nts— Tiik Good 
DoM Perignox — What We Owe That Wcktiiv Monk 



'y^X THE YEAR i860, among the sunny vine} arc! slopes 
rising from the poplar-fringed Marne, there stood in all 
its pride the famous roj-al abbey of St. Peter at Haut- 
villers. Its foundation, of remote antiquity, was hal- 
lowed by saintl}' legend. Tradition said that about the 
middle of the seventh century, St. Nivard, bishop of Reims, and his 
godson, St. Bercher, were seeking a suitable spot for the erection of 
a monastery on the banks of the river. The way was long, the day 
was warm, and the saints but mortal. Weary and faint, they sat 
down to rest at a spot identified by tradition with a vineyard at 
Dizy, to-day belonging to Messrs. Bollinger, but at that time form- 
ing p-^rt of the forest of the Marne. St. Nivard fell asleep with his 
head on St. Bercher's lap, when the one in a dream, and the other 
with waking eyes, saw a snow-white dov^e — the same, firm believers 
in miracles suggested, which had brought down the holy oil for the 
aunointment of Clovis at his coronation at Reims — flutter through the 
wood and finally alight afar off on the stump of a tree. Such an omen 
could no more be neglected by a seventh-century saint than a slate 
full of scribbles by a nineteenth-century spiritualist, and accordingly 
the site thus miraculously indicated was forthwith decided upon. 
Plans for the edifice were duly drawn out and approved of, and the 
abbey rose in stately majesty, the high altar at which St. Bercher was 
solemnly invested with sjanbols of abbatial dignity being erected upon 
the precise spot occupied by the tree on which the snow-white dove 
had alighted. As time rolled on and pious donations poured in, the 
abbey Waxed in importance, altogether it was sacked liy the Nor- 
mans when they ravaged the Champagne, and was twice destroyed 
by fire — once in 1098, and again in 1440 — when each time it rose 
phoenix-like from its ashes. In 1670 the abbey was in all its glory. 
True, it had been somewhat damaged a century ]irevious by the 
Huguenots, who had fired the church, driven out the monks, sacked 
the wine cellars, burnt the archives, and committed sundry other 
depredations, inherent to civil and religious warfare; but the liberal 
contributions of the faithful, including Oueen Maria de Medici-:, 

51) 



THE INKER. AIAN ^^ 

had helped to efface all traces of their visit. The abbey boasted 
many precious relics rescued from the Reformer's fury, the most 
important being the body of St. Helena, the mother of Constantine 
the Great, which had been in its possession ever since 844, and 
attracted numerous pilgrims. The hierarchical status of the abbey 
was high; for no less than nine archbishops had passed forth 
through its stately portals to the see of Reims, and twenty-two 
abbots, including the venerable Peter of Cluny, to various distin. 
guished monasteries. Its territorial possessions were extensive; for its 
abbot was lord of Hautvillers,Comieres, Cormo3^ean, Bomery and Dizy 
la Riviere, and had all manner of rights oi foitrmage, and hueliage^ 
linage and pressoir banal^ and the like, to the benefit of the monks, 
and the misfortune of their numerous dependents. Its revenues were 
ample, and no small portion was derived from the tithes of fair and 
fertile vine lands extending for miles around, and from the vine- 
yards that the monks themselves cultivated in the immediate neigh- 
borhood of the abbey. It should be remembered that for a lengthy 
period — not only in France, but in other countries — the choicest 
wines were those produced in vineyards belonging to the church, 
and that the vimim theologmm was justly held superior to all others. 
The rich chapters and monasteries were more studious of the quali- 
ties than of the quantity of their vintages; their land was tilled with 
particular care, and the learning, of which in the Middle Ages they 
were almost the sole depositaries, combined with opportunities of 
observation enjoyed by the members of these fraternities by reason 
of their retired pursuits, made them acquainted at a very early period 
with a method of controlling the fermentation of the grape and 
ameliorating its produce. To the monks of Bige we owe Chamber- 
tin, the favorite wine of the first Napoleon ; to the Cistercians, 
Citualx the perfection of that Clos Vougeot, which passing regi- 
ments saluted tambour battant ; and the Benedictines of Hautvillers 
were equally regardful of the renown of their wines and vineyards. 
In 1636 they cultivated one hundred arpints themselves, their pos- 
sessions including the vineyards now known as Les Quartiers and 
Les Prieres at Hautvillers, and lyCS Barillits, Sainte Heline and 
Cotes-a-bras at Comieries, the last named of which still retains a 
high reputation. 

Over these vineyards there presided in 1670 a worthy Bene- 
dictine named Dom Perignon, who was destined to gain for the 
abbey a more world-wide fame than the devoutest of its monks or 
the proudest of its abbots. His position was an onerous one, for 



Indigestion Dies 'where Napa Soda Lives 



62 THEi INNER M^X 

the reputation of the wine was considerable, and it was necessary to 
maintain it. Henry of Andelys has sung its praises as early as the 
thirteenth century, and St. Bvremond, though absent from France 
for nearly half a score years, wrote of it in terms proving that he 
had preserved a lively recollection of its merits. Dom Perignon was 
born at Sainte Me'nehould in 1638, and had been elected to the 
post of procurer of the abbey about 1668 on account of the purity 
of his taste and the soundness of his head. He proved himself fully 
equal to the momentous task, devotion to which did not seem to 
have shortened his days, since he died at the ripe old age of seventy- 
seven. It was Dom Perignon's duty to superintend the abbey vine- 
yards, supervise the making of the wine, and see after the tithes, 
paid either in wine or grapes by the neighboring cultivators to their 
seignorial lord of the abbey. The wine which thus came into his 
charge was naturally of various qualities; and having noted that 
one kind of soil imparted fragrance and another generosit}-, while 
the produce of others was deficient in both of these attributes, Dom 
Perignon, in the spirit of a true Benedictine, hit upon the happy 
idea of "marrying," or blending, the produce of different vineyards 
together, a practice which is to-day very generally followed by the 
manufacturers of Champagne. Such was the perfection of Dom 
Perignon's skill and the delicacy of his palate, that in his later years, 
when blind from age, he used to have the grapes of the different dis- 
tricts brought to him, and recognizing each kind by its flavor would 
say, "You must marry the wine of this vineyard with that of such 
another." But the crowning of the Benedictine's long and useful 
life remains to be told. He succeeded in obtaining for the first time 
in the Champagne, a perfectly white wine from black grapes, that 
hitherto made having been gray, or of a straw color. Moreover, by 
some happy accident, or by a series of experimental researches — 
for the exact facts of the discovery are lost forever — he hit upon a 
method of regulating the tendency of the wines of this region to 
effervesce, and, by paying regard to the epoch of bottling, finally 
succeeded in producing a perfectly sparkling wine, that burst forth 
from the bottle and overflowed the glass and was twice as dainty to 
the palate, and twice as exhilarating in its effects, as the ordinary 
wine of the Champagne. A correlative result of his investigations 
was the present system of corking bottles, a wisp or two dipped in 
oil being the sole stopper in use prior to his time. To him, too. we 
owe not only sparkling Champagne itself, but the proper kind of a 
glass to drink it out of. The tall, thin, tapering /^/c/^ was adopted. 



THE INNER NIAN 53 

if not invented by him, in order, as he said, that he might watch 
the dance of the sparkling atoms. The exact date of Dora Perig- 
non's discovery of sparkling wines seems to be wrapped in much the 
same obscurity as are the various attendant circumstances. It was 
certainly prior to the close of the seventeenth century, as the author 
of an anonymous treatise, printed at Reims in 1718, remarked that for 
more than twenty years past the taste of the French had inclined 
toward sparkling wines, which they, "frantically adored," though 
during the last three years they had grown a little out of conceit 
with them. This would place it at 1697 ^^ the latest. To Dom 
Perignon the well-stocked cellar was a far cheerfuller place than 
the cell. Nothing delighted him more than 

To come down among his brotherhood 
Dwelling forever underground, 
Silent, contemplative, round and sound ; 

Each one old and brown with mould, 

But filled to the lips with the ardour of youth- 
With the latent power and love of truth. 

And with virtues fervent and manifold. 

Ever busy among his vats and presses, barrels and bottles, Per- 
ignon found out a method of clearing wine, so as to preserve it 
limpid and free from all deposit, without being obliged, like all who 
sought to rival him in its production, to depoter the bottles — that is, 
to decant their contents into fresh ones. This secret, which helped 
to maintain the high reputation of the wine of Hautvillers when the 
manufacture of sparkling Champagne had extended throughout the 
district, he guarded even better than he was able to guard the 
apple of his eye. At his death in 1715, he revealed it only to his 
successor, Frere Philippe, who, after holding sway over vat and 
vineyard for fifty years, died in 1765, imparting it with his last 
breath to Frere Andre I,emaire. Revoked perforce from his func- 
tions by the French Revolution, he, in turn, before his death about 
1795, communicated it to Dom Grossart, who exults over the fact, 
that whilst the greatest Champagne merchants were obliged to 
depoter, the monks of Hautvillers had never done so. Dom Gros- 
sart, who had counted the Moets amongst his customers, died in his 
turn without making any sign, so that the secret of Perignon per- 
ished with him. Prior to that event, however, the present system 
Q)i degorgeage was discovered, and eventually depotage was no longer 
practiced. The material result of Dom Perignon's were such that 
one of the presses of the abbey bore this inscription: " M. de Four- 
Ladies Drink Napa Soda for Complexion 



54 THEIXNER AIAX 

ville, abbot of this abbey, had me constructed in the year 1694, and 
that same year sold his wine at a thousand livers thequene." Their 
mortal effect was so complete that his name became identified with 
the wine of the abbey. People asked for the wine of Perignon, till 
they forgot that he was a man and not a vineyard, and within a 
year of his death his name figures among a list of the wnne produc- 
ing slopes of the Champagne. His reputation has outlasted the 
walls within which he carried on his labors, and his merits are 
recorded in conventual Latin of the period on a black marble slab 
still to be seen within the altar steps of the abbey church of Haut- 
villers. 

A. P. HOTALING & CO.— When A. P. Hotaling & Co. 
accepted the Pacific coast agency of the J. H. Cutter whiskey, it 
was almost unknown in this part of the Union. The first agent, 
Mr. George Park, formerly of the Bank Exchange, had not exerted 
himself to bring the whiskey into notice ; but now, from the few 
barrels sold while he had charge of the fortunes of the J. H. Cutter 
brand, an enormous trade has built up. The house of A. P. Hota- 
ling & Co., who were instrumental in this result, now import and 
sell from 1,500 to 2,000 barrels a year, and the demand is constantly 
growing. The genuine Cutter Bourbon is known and appreciated in 
every city, town, and village, from Alaska to the borders of Sonora, 
and from Salt Lake to the Pacific seaboard. The foundation of Mr. 
Hotaling's present ample wealth, was laid in the old one-story 
wooden building at the northeast corner of Sansome and Jackson 
streets, erected by Charles Schultz, the husband of Madame Anna 
Bishop, earh' in the fifties. Mr. Hotaling occupied these premises 
about eight years, and his fondness for the earlier and pleasant asso- 
ciations connected with the place is proven by the fact that a hand- 
some oil-painting of the unpretending store now adorns the walls of 
his private office. It was in this one-story wooden structure that 
Hotaling established that character for honesty in dealing, and per- 
sistency of purpose, which has gained him so valuable a reputation, 
not only in this city, but all over the Pacific coast — a reputation 
which, to a business man, is as good as refined gold or Golconda's 
diamonds. We think history and the statistics of history will show 
that American whiskey has had, relatively, a humanizing influence 
on the race. We do not think the people are as cruel, nowadays, as 
when the more fiery stimulants of rum and brandy were the general 
drinks. We really think a man becomes more amiable under the 



THE INNER. IVIAN J-^ 

effect of pure Kentucky corn juice than he does under the influence 
of the extract of Jamaica cane ; and, therefore, conclude that, for a 
spirit stimulant, whiskey is the best that can be taken, always keep 
ing in view, of course, the essential condition of its absolute purity. 
Physicians, however, are culpably careless sometimes, in ordering 
whiskey, when they have patients requiring alcoholic stimulants. 
They should bear in mind that there is whiskey and whiskey ; and 
inasmuch as " all is not gold that glitters," so all is not the " pure 
Kentucky wine " that is labeled such on the bottle. The patient 
will receive more injury than benefit from the noxious compounds 
that are offered for sale under the guise of Kentucky whiskey ; com- 
pounds that injure a well man and are sure to make short work of 
the sick. Be careful, therefore, gentlemen, to get Mooman's J. H. 
Cutter Old Bourbon, at the agency on Jackson street, in San Fran- 
cisco, and then you may rest satisfied that your patients are deriving 
all the benefit possible from this stimulant, and that no poison is 
being introduced into the channels of their file, to co-operate with 
disease already there against your curative efforts. 

THE BUREAU. — A cosy resort for a little liquid refreshment, or 
a fragrant cigar, is the Bureau, 112 Halleck street, Samuel L. Pereira, 
proprietor. It is safe to say that here is found nothing but the best, 
for Mr. Pereira is himself a wine and liquor critic of much taste and 
experience. The Bureau at the noon hour is the resort of merchants, 
lawyers, accountants, stock-brokers, etc., who, from their busy hives 
in that neighborhood, flock to partake of the excellent lunch which 
its proprietor provides for his patrons. The chef who prepares those 
palatable dishes, is a Frenchman, who understands the great art of 
cooking to a nicety. The variety of each day's menu is not the least 
attractive feature of this pleasant place of refreshment. The savory 
stews, tender roasts, cool salads, and well prepared vegetables are 
washed down with the \ery choicest brands the market affords. 
Mr. Pereira handles his liquids with care, and his cellar is always 
kept so plentifully furnished that the charm of age is found in all 
he ofiers those who frequent this very comfortable oasis in the desert 
of commercial affairs that surround it. It is the perfection of neat- 
ness, and a vase of fresh roses is considered one of the dail}^ 
adjuncts of its ornaments. Few places have such a steady current 
of customers. The same people frequent it year after year, which 
is in itself a good proof of the standard it has attained. 



Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



66 THE: INNER MAN 

JOHN C. FITSCHEN.— Mr. John C. Fitschen entertains in his 
saloon at 305^ California street, a very industrious, and verj' ener- 
getic class of the community. His very cosy retreat is the accepted 
headquarters of the members of the Produce Exchange, as well as a 
number of those gentlemen who do business in his vicinity. He is 
most conscientious in keeping nothing but the highest grade of 
wines and liquors, and is, withal, of so genial and obliging a disposi- 
tion that his patrons who frequent his place, attracted by its good 
repute, are also his friends. There are few saloons, if any, east of 
Montgomery street, which do such an excellent business, and which 
retain so large a number ot clients. San Francisco people are 
critical about their drinks, and will adhere to those who furnish them 
with the best, and never offer them adulterated or inferior liquors. 
Among Mr. Fitschen' s specialties, if indeed one can point to anything 
in particular when all are of the highf^st grade, ma}^ be mentioned a 
sherry, a dry, pale wine, and no better is served at any bar in the 
city. Its flavor is delicious, and sherry-lovers will walk half a dozen 
blocks to regale themselves with a glass of this admirable wine. 

The mid-day lunch is a very profuse repast, and is served in an 
inner room where tables are comfortably set out for the enjoyment 
of the guests. The main table is never without an abundant supply 
of choice and appetizing morsels, delicious cheeses, fresh and canned 
fish, caviar, and other delicacies enjoyed by those who like a morsel 
to heighten the flavor of Mr Fitsclen's good wines and liquors. 

"THE BUCKINGHAM."— " The Buckingham," 141 Mont- 
gomery street, Mr. M. Balfe, proprietor, enjoys the reputation of being 
one of the best-kept saloons in this wide city, where kindred places 
of refreshment are so numerous. Mr. Balfe has had a long experience 
in the liquor business, and has catered to the most refined palates of 
the leading epicures of San Francisco. Therefore it was but natural 
that "The Buckingham" should have become a success from the 
day its doors were first thrown open to the public, to the present da}'. 
The interior fittings of this handsome resort are particularlj- tasteful 
and elegant, and the crystal of the finest, an important part of the 
furnishings of a first-class saloon. Mr. Balfe Is a direct importer of 
old Bourbon whisky per case, and also receives his Hand-made, 
Sour Mash Horsey Rye direct from the distillery. These ver>' choice 
whiskies are highly appreciated, and are served, it is needless to say, 
in their original purity. The wines and brandies of " The Bucking- 
ham " have been selected with no less care and discrimination, and 



THE INNER M:AN 57 

bear the labels of the most celebrated manufacturers on both sides 
of the water — the French clarets from the famous vineyards of the 
old world, and the native wines from those growers whose products 
have been adjudged the best. 

At noon a very substantial and well-cooked lunch is served, so 
complete and good indeed that it would not be amiss to call it a very 
satisfying mid-day dinner. The kitchen is on the premises, and this 
important part of the business receives the personal supervision of 
Mr. Balfe. The bar- keepers are expert in compounding those mixed 
drinks for which California is renowned, and are at all times prompt 
and courteous in receiving the wishes and meeting the requirements 
of Mr. Balfe's customers. 




Do you Drink ? Then Napa Soda is your Tipple 




CHAPTER VIII 

Old English Inns — A Specimen of Hostelry Described — One of the 
Land - Marks of London. 

LTHOUGH THE ORIGIN of the Old Cheshire Cheese 
(fornierlv spelt " Ye Old Cheshire Chease"), is not alto- 
gether involved in obscurity, there is a decided want of 
complete, or semi-complete, details as to its very early 
history. I cannot trace, for example — although I have 
turned up not a few volumes — among old records that 
Shakespeare was actually one of the numerous fre- 
quenters of The Cheese ; but, morally, I have no> 
doubt whatever that he was an almost daily customer. It was one 
of the few well-frequented — then, in fact, fashionable — places of 
rendezvous and entertainment which the great poet was almost 
bound to pass— or enter, which is the more likel}^ idea, — day by day, 
as he wended his way to, or returned from, the Blackfriars' Theatre, 
in Play House Yard, Ludgate Hill, and of which he was for a con- 
siderable time sole manager. At that time the play began at one 
o'clock of the day, and terminated about five. The latter hour was 
the period of the evening at which the wits of the time were wont tO' 
congregate in the famous Fleet Street haunts. But if it be not quite 
certain that Shakespeare frequented the Old Cheshire Cheese, it is 
undoubted that one very famous man did, namely, Francois Marie 
•Arouet Voltaire ; while often enough were present Bolingbroke, Pope, 
and Congreve. I find that the expressions, " He's not the cheese," 
was in former days applied to one who could not, from his presumed 
want of character or position, take part in the conversation of, or 
even be permitted to mix among, those celebrities who were in the 
habit of frequenting the Old Cheshire Cheese. Thus it may be 
fairly concluded that the "divine William," the more gifted of the 
many gifted men who in his day certainly patronized the now cele- 
brated Tavern, was one of its supporters. Was it not written, some 
say even before Shakespeare's time? 

" Come to the Cheese, good friend, come to the Cheese; 
There I'll arrange that thou shalt quickly find 
The creature comforts that thou need'st so much. 
Thy body 's famished — first, for want of sack ; 
And next, for lack of something good to eat. 
Haste to The Cheese, good friend, haste to the Cheese." 



THE^ INNER PvlAN 61 

Later on that evening, when men and matters had got rather 
mellow, the then comforted friend thus addressed his benefactor — 
(he sat in the right-hand corner of the room situated to the left as 
the visitor enters from Wine Office Court) — 

Heaven bless ' The Cheese,' and all its goodly fare— 
I would to Jove I could go daily there ; 
Theu fill a bumper up, my good friend, please. 
May fortune ever bless the Cheshire Cheese ! 

The foregoing extracts are from an Old Play, in MS., once in 
the possession of Sir Richard Floyd, and now in a well-known 
library at Edinburgh. The writer is unknown, but he is believed to 
have been chairman of a coterie that met almost nightly at the 
Cheese, when Jonson — rare Ben Jonson — was one of the jolly 
frequenters. The reader may remember it was in the Old Cheshire 
Cheese that the dispute arose about who would most quickly make 
the best couplet : — 

" I, Sylvester, 
Kiss'd your sister." 

When the retort was — 

" I, Ben Jonson, 
Kiss'd your wife." 

"But that's not rhyme," said Sylvester. "No," said Jonson; 
"but it's true." And thus they passed the merry nights, "nor 
thought of care or woe," although there was plenty of both very 
much about at the time. Just about as much as there is now. It is 
unfortunate, indeed, that fnen of many letters are generally men of 
little money. 

It was in the Old Cheshire Cheese that Isaac Bickerstaff made 
the epigram — 

*' When late I attempted your pity to move, 
What made you so deaf to my prayers ? 
Perhaps it was right to dissemble your love, 
But — why did you kick me down stairs ? " 

It was in the same good old house that the following was transcribed 
from the Greek — 

" Damon, who plied the Undertaker's trade, 
With Doctor Critias an arrangement made, 
What grave-clothes Damon from the dead should seize, 
He to the Doctor sent for bandages ; 
While the good Doctor, here no promise-breaker, 
Sent all his patients to the Undertaker." 



Ghiradelli's Breakfast Cocoa. The Best 



62 -FHE IIMNER h/lAM 

And this gave tremendous offense to a decent Fleet Street under- 
taker, who swore he would never enter the house again, but who was 
back again the very next day. It was in the same Old Cheshire 
Cheese that the perhaps too pointed epigram was written — 

" Pravus, that aged debauchee, 

Proclaimed a vow his sins to quit; 
But is he yet from auy free, 

Except what now he can'i commit ?" 

In fact, the Cheese was famous for epigrammatists. Ah, who 
would not give a year of his life to sit and listen to the wit and humor of 
the ancient frequenters of the Old Cheshire Cheese ! But the smart 
things said in the same house, even in the present time of universal 
genius, are not to be despised. Who would not give a finger off his 
hand to get a look at the face of the old glutton and scandalmonger 
to whom, in the Cheese, the following lines were solemnly presented — 

" You say 3' our teeth are dropping out— 
A serious cause of sorrow, 
Not likely to be cured, I doubt, 
To-day, or yet to-morrow. 

But good may come of this distress, 

While under it you labor, 
If, losing teeth, you guzzle less, 

And don't backbite your neighbour." 

That in latter days, although even the period is now termed "old 
times," Samuel Johnson, Oliver Goldsmith, Thomas Chatterton — 

" The wondrous boy, 
The sleepless soul that perished in his pride," 

and other great men were in the habit of frequenting the Old Cheshire' 
Cheese, there can be no manner of doubt. Full well those great 
men knew what they were about in choosing their place of rendezvous, 
for I find a brocJmre entitled " Round London " (1725), that the 
house is described as "Ye Old Cheshire Cheese Tavern, near Ye 
Flete prison, an eating-house for goodly fare." In the time of 
Charles the Second, chop and coffee houses were great political clubs, 
where men discussed severely the conduct of his Majesty. Harris, 
in his life of Charles II., volume 2, page 278, says : 

1675. It appears that the king afforded the citizens abundant 
matter for animadversion, and that they indulged themselves in this 
way so much to his dissatisfaction, and that of his cabal ministry, 
that a proclamation was issued, December 22, for shutting up and 
suppressing all coffee houses. 



, THE INNER NIAN 63 

" ' Because in such houses, and by occasion of the meeting of 
disafifected persons in them, divers false, malicious, and scandalous 
reports were devised and spread abroad, to the defamation of his 
Majesty's government, and to the disturbance of the quiet and peace 
of the realm.' " 

The increase in the number of taverns and wine vaults in the 
year 1552, engaged the attention of Parliament ; and it was enacted 
that the number of retailers of wine in lyondon should not exceed 
forty ; nor those of Westminster exceed three (Stat. 7, Edw. VI. c. 5). 
As remarked elsewhere, Wine Office Court, where the Cheshire 
Cheese is situated, took its name from the fact that wine licenses 
were granted in a building close by. 

PERUVIAN BITTERS. — From the days of the Incas, when 
Pizarro conquered that gallant people to the present, Peru has been 
subjected to much turbulence. In its war with Chili, the lower 
orders broke out and made things mighty disagreeable in that land of 
poetry and romance. And none of its stories are more attractive 
than that tale of the old days, when in 1630 Count Cinchon was the 
vice-regal representative in Peru of the Spanish Monarch Philip IV. 
Count Cinchon was the descendant of one of the noblest, proudest, 
richest and most powerful families in Spain. The young Count 
sought for and obtained this position, not because of the dignity, nor 
yet of the emoluments which it brought with it, but because of cer- 
tain political complications which he desired to avoid by a residence 
abroad. He was accompanied by his wife, the beautiful and accom- 
plished Countess Cinchon. Among all the daughters of sunny Spain 
she was the loveliest, and the Count worshipped her, and the aim of 
his life was to make her happy. But to the consternation of the 
Count, on his way via Panama from Madrid to the seat of the Peru- 
vian government at Lima, the lady had the misfortune to contract 
an intermittent fever. The Count was distracted. All the available 
medical skill of the country was emploj^ed, but in vain. Da}' after 
day the beautiful Countess grew weaker, and her death appeared 
indeed inevitable. At this critical period the monks of the Mission 
were called in, for their knowledge of the herbs of the countr}- was 
well known, and by the dying bed of the Countess one of the oldest 
and wisest advised the use of Peruvian bark, or, as it was then called 
in the language of the country, Quinquinia, the medicinal virtues of 
which they had learned from the Indians. Its effect upon the 
Countess was immediate. She rallied from the deadly languor which 



A Napa Soda Lemonade is a Luxury 



64 THE INNER. NIAJM 

had so long possessed her, her appetite and her strength were 
restored, and in a few weeks she became conipletel}' convalescent. 
The Count could not do too much for the good monks whose knowl- 
edge and wisdom had so happily preserved the life of his beautiful 
wife. He made the most munificent presents to the monastery, and 
was enthusiastic in his praises of the wonderful remedy which had 
made so signal a conquest of that deadly malaria. The Count 
Cinchon and his wife returned to Spain in 1632, and introduced the 
remedy there where it passed under various names until a celebrated 
scientist designated it Cinchona, in honor of the lady who had 
brought it to the knowledge of the civilized world. Cinchona 
now proves the basis upon which Peruvian Bitters are manufactured, 
and its remedial qualities have ever since been held in the highest 
esteem. The late Harrj' Meiggs was one of the most firm believers 
in the ejfficac}- of Cinchona, which undoubtedl}- was known to the 
inhabitants of Peru long before the Spanish conquest, to those who 
wish to preserve the inner man in all its integrity it is simply invalu- 
able. It stimulates the languid appetite, and expels from the blood 
every trace of malaria. It is a most agreeable beverage, and only 
the best and purest materials are used in its manufacture. "Wil- 
merding & Co., 214 and 216 Front street, are the proprietors of 
Peruvian Bitters, and the reputation of this old firm is the best guar- 
outee of the purity of this popular and healthful concoction. 

"GARCIA'S." — A pioneer among pioneers in the wine and 
liquor business is Francisco Garcia, who for years conducted in the 
northern portion of Montgomer}' Street one of the leading saloons 
and restaurants in the city. Everybody then knew "Frank's" as it 
was familiarly called. It was considered the proper courtesy to 
extend to a stranger to conduct him to "Frank's," and have Mr. 
Garcia build for him one of tNtose great imperial punches which 
won him his spurs, so to speak, in this line. It was the resort of 
the epicures, because some of the very rarest and best liquors and 
wines had their abiding place in Frank's cellar. The lunch table 
was profusely set out with all the dainties of the season, and the 
cooking was beyond reproach. 

But as time rolled on, and lawyers, doctors and business men 
drifted farther up town, Mr. Garcia wisely concluded to move with 
the current, and established himself at 133 Montgomery Street, 
opposite the Occidental Hotel, It was not long before the old 
habitues again flocked around him, and rejoiced in the accessibility 



THE INNER N/[AN 6-5 

of the new quarters. They confidently believed that the same 
nienages and the same system which had won Garcia his reputation 
in the old establishment would obtain in the new, and they were not 
disappointed. 

Mr. Garcia always had a nice taste for appetizing odds and ends — 
knick-knacks in bottles and cans, such as delicious sardines, pates, 
and the like, and the highly appreciative of those delicacies were 
pleased to find that the supply was undiminished and always equal 
to the demand. Fine old brandies and whiskies continue to be 
served as in the original place, and the choicest wines of France 
and California find a place on the shelves. The high art of mixing 
palatable drinks are not permitted to languish. In fact, everything 
was kept up to the original standard, and this is sufficient encomium 
for those who well knew what that standard was. 

Mr. Garcia's lunch counter is furnished daily with a variety of 
well cooked and appetizing dishes, and his champagne prepared 
hams are beyond praise. The service is excellent, and everything 
about Garcia's places it in the front rank of San Francisco saloons. 
It has never lost that old California flavor which made it the resort 
of some of the most brilliant men in the State. The main object 
ever kept in view was to furnish the very choicest, the oldest and 
finest liquors and wines that the cellars of the importers could furnish. 
Indeed many of the rare things in ihis line have been imported by 
Mr. Garcia himself from Europe. 



Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



CHAPTER IX. 




The Wines Used by the Egyptians — The Temperance Enforced on the 
Women — Wineb Used for Medicinal Purposes 



HE EGYPTIANS had several different kinds of 
wine, some of which have been commended by 
ancient authors for their excellent qualities. That of 
Mareotis was the most esteemed and in the greatest 
quantity. Its superiority over other Egyptian wines 
may be readily accounted for, when we consider the 
nature of the soil in that district ; being principally 
composed of gravel, which, lying beyond the reach 
of the alluvial deposit, was free from the rich and 
tenacious mud usually met with in the valley of the 
Nile, so little suited for grapes of delicate quality; 
and from the extensive remains of vineyards still found on the west- 
ern borders of the Arsinoite name or Fyoom, we may conclude that 
eminent Egyptians were fully aware of the advantages of lands, 
situated beyond the limits of the inundation, for planting the vine. 
According to Athenseus, " the Maroetic grape was remarkable for its 
sweetness," and the wine is thus described by him : "Its color is 
white, its quality excellent, and it is sweet and light with a fragrant 
bfluqiiei ; it is by no means astringent, nor does it affect the head." 
But it was not for its flavor alone this wine was esteemed. Strabo 
ascribes to it the additional merit of keeping to a great age. "Still, 
however," says Athenseus, "it is inferior to the Teniotic, a wine 
which receives its name from a place called Tenia, where it is pro- 
duced. Its color is pale and weak, but there is such a degree of 
richness in it, that, when mixed with water, it seems gradually to be 
diluted, much in the same way as Attic honey when a liquid is 
poured into it ; and besides the agreeable flavor of the wine, its fra- 
grance is so delightful as to render it perfectly aromatic, and it has 
the property of being slightly astringent. There are many other 
vineyards in the valley of the Nile, whose wines are in great repute, 
and these differ both in color and taste. But that which it produced 
about Anthy 11a is preferred to all the rest. " Some of the wine made 

68 



THE liMNER. NI^I^ 69 

in Thebaid was particularly light, especially about Coptos and ' ' so 
wholesome," says the same author, " that invalids may take it with- 
out inconvenience, even during a fever." The Sebenny tic was like- 
wise one of the choice Egyptian wines ; and, as Pliny says, was made 
of three different grapes ; one of which was a sort of Thasian. The 
Thasian grape he afterwards describes as excelling all others in 
Egypt for sweetness, and remarkable for its medicinal properties- 
The Mendisian is also mentioned by Oluneus, with rather a sweet 
flavor: and another singular wine, called by Pliny ecbolada, was also 
the produce of Egypt; but from its peculiar powers, we may suppose 
that men alone drank it, or at least that it was forbidden to newly 
married brides. And, considering how prevalent the custom was 
among the ancients of altering the qualities of wines, by drugs and 
divers processes, we may readily conceive the possibilities of the 
effects ascribed to them; and thus it happened that the opposite 
properties were frequently attributed to the same kind. Wines were 
much used by them for medicinal purposes, and many were held in 
such repute, as to be considered specifics in certain complaints ; but 
the medicinal men of the day were prudent in their mode of prescrib- 
ing them ; and as imagination has on many occasions effected the 
cure, and given celebrity to a medicine, those least known were 
wisely preferred, and each extolled the natures of some foreign wine. 
In the earliest time Egypt was renowned for drugs, and foreigners 
had recourse to that country for wines as well as herbs. Yet, 
Appolodorus the physician, in a treatise on wines, addressed to 
Ptolemy, king of Egypt, recommended those of Pontus, more bene- 
ficial then any of his own country, and particularly praised the 
Peparethian, produced in an island of the ^gean Sea. But he was 
disposed to think it less valuable as a medicine, when its good quali- 
ties could not be discovered in six years. The wines of Alexandria 
and Coptas are also cited among the best of Egyptian growth, and 
the latter was so light as not to effect even those in delicate health 
In offerings to the Egyptian deities wine frequently occurs, and sev- 
eral different kinds are noted in the Sacred Scriptures, but it is prob- 
able that many of the Egyptian wines are not introduced in those 
subjects, and that, as with the Romans, and other people, all were 
not admitted at their sacrifices. According to Herodotus, their sacri- 
fices commenced with a libation of wine, and some was sprinkled on 
the ground where the victim lay ; yet at Heliopolis, if Plutarch may 
be credited, it was forbidden to take it into the temple, and the gods 
worshipped in that city were required to abstain from its use. 



Napa Soda Water Cures Dyspepsia 



70 THE; INNER rvIAN 

"Those of other deities," adds the same author, " were less scrupu- 
lous," but still they used wine very sparingly, and the quantity 
allowed them for their daily consumption, was regulated by law; nor 
could they indulge in it at all times, and the use of it was strictly 
prohibited during their more solemn purifications, and in times of 
abstinence. The number of wines mentioned in the list of offerings 
presented to the deities in the tombs or temples, varied in different 
places. Each appears with its peculiar name attached to it, but 
they seldom exceed three or four kinds, and among them is found at 
Thebes that of the "northern country," which was perhaps from 
Mareotis, Anthylla, or Sebernytus. Private individuals were under 
no particular restrictions in regard to its use, and it was not forbid- 
den to women. In this they differed widely froiu the Romans, for at 
early times no female enjoyed the privilege, and it was unlawful for 
women, or, indeed, for young men below the age of thirty, to drink 
wine, except as sacrifices. Even at a later time Romans considered 
it disgraceful for women to drink wine, and they sometimes saluted 
a female relative, whom they suspected, in order to discover if she 
had secretly indulged in its use. It was afterwards allowed them on 
the plea of health, and no better method could have been devised for 
removing the restriction. That Egyptian women were not forbidden 
the use of wine, nor the enjoyment of other luxuries, is evident from 
the frescoes that represent their feasts, and the painters, in illustrat- 
ing this fact, have sometimes sacrificed their gallantry to a love of 
caricature. Some call the servants to support them as they sit. 
Others with diflficuty prevent themselves from falling on those behind 
them ; a basin is brought too late by a reluctant servant, and the 
faded flower, which is ready to drop from their heated hands, is 
intended to be characteristic of their own sensations. 

IvUKE G. SRESOVICH & CO.— The house of L. G. Sresovich 
& Co., 505-507 Sansome street, is identical with luscious fiuits from 
far-off seas, and breathing the perfume of the tropics. There is 
always a handsome and appetizing display in Mr. Sresovich's store, 
and his assistants are busy from dawn to dark, filling the numerous 
orders which come from those who appreciate the beginning of a 
breakfast or close to a dinner — fresh, wholesome fruit. This house 
imports its bananas from the Hawaiian Islands, and receives large 
consignments by every steamer, thus enabling them to keep a large 
stock always on hand. The oranges come from Tahiti, Sonora and 
California, and are the very choicest qualities of this general favorite. 



THE IMNER MAN 71 

But this is only a portion of the business of this firm. Mr. Sresovich 
also is a large manufacturer of desiccated cocoanut, and the factory 
for this as well as the depot for green fruits is at 207-9-1 1 Steuart 
street. The firm was awarded a silver medal by the Mechanics' 
Institute for the display of fruits, and has received diplomas at the 
State fairs of California and Oregon. Mr. lyUke Sresovich is himself 
a business man of great energy and enterprise, and like all his 
countrymen has a keen judgment \n the quality and selection of 
fruits. The telephone number is 629. 

"THE ARGONAUT."— The Argo7iatit, since its birth, has 
been recognized as the leading society and literary weekly publication 
of California. It has correspondents in the principal cities of the 
East and Europe, who contribute breezy, interesting letters, princi- 
pally on social topics. Mr. F. M. Pixley, its founder, has long been 
recognized as one of the most forcible and original writeis in the 
State, and Mr. Jerome Harte, under whose immediate supervision 
the literary department is, in addition to his excellent judgment in 
literary matters, is a gentleman of scholarly attainments, and wields 
a cunning pen. 

Some of the most celebrated literators of the world have from 
time to time appeared in the Argonaiifs columns. This Journal has 
moreover done much to encourage and foster the literary taste of 
California. It has offered generous inducements to young writers 
to join the ranks of its contributors, and while other journals have 
economized in the matter of compensation, the Argojiaut has never 
deviated from the rates it established in the flush times. Its selections 
are among the most attractive features of this journal. There are 
hundreds of interesting scrap books in this city made up from the 
prose and verse of the Argonaut. M. A. P. Stanton directs the bus- 
iness end of the concern, and has assisted largely in obtaining for it 
the wide circulation which it now enjoys. The office is 213 Grant 
avenue. 

C. CARPY & CO.— The city office of C. Carpy & Co., whole- 
sale wine and liquor merchants is 515-517 Sacramento street, and 
the wine vaults are situated at Napa City, California. Mr. Carpy is 
a Frenchman, and like the great majority of his countrymen, has a 
fine taste in the selection of wines. He is also a bon vivant of the 
prer7iiere quality, and knows how to take good care of the Inner Man. 



Indigestion Dies where Napa Soda Lives 



72 THE INNER IVIA.N 

Among the various lines of mercantile life, the wine merchant is the 
one who is usually most jealous and careful of his reputation. In 
the first place the competition is so keen that to get on top is no easy- 
undertaking. Again when a reputation for a really fine article is 
once established, and the consumer has grown so accustomed to its 
use that it has become a second nature to him, he grows more critical. 
The old saj'ing that " familiarity breeds contempt " is marvelously well 
exemplified in the wine trade. A man's palate may be a trifle out 
of order, his liver may be impaired, or his digestion not up to the 
mark. In those dark hours his favorite wine has not the same snap, 
and he blames the wine merchant. All this is preliminary to the fact 
that Mr. Carpy when he once obtains a thoroughly appreciative 
consumer never loses him by any deterioration in the quality of the 
wines he furnishes. And this is accomplished all the easier by 
reason of his trained judgment in those affairs. 

The great I^a L,oma claret is a wine upon which Mr. Carpy prides 
himself with justice. This is indeed a nectar fit for the gods, breath- 
ing sweet perfumes, and is highly esteemed by the wine connoisseurs 
of the Pacific Coast. To taste La lyoma once is to become from that 
moment an enthusiast in its praise. 

Mr. Carpy's business is comprehensive. He handles all those 
wines made from the grapes which have proved themselves the best 
adapted to the soil and climate of California, in addition of course to 
the imported wines of the old country. The spacious wine vaults at 
Napa contain many rare old wines laid down years ago, for Mr. 
Carpy is a pioneer wine merchant of this State. He has watched 
the wine industry of this county from its infancy — from those days 
when a few thousand gallons of Zinfandel was considered a big thing, 
to the present when we number our output by the million gallons, 
and when the market for California wines is ever broadening. It is 
sincerely to be hoped that the day is not far distant when the path- 
way of the California wine producer will be made smoother than it 
at present is. 

MERCANTILE LUNCH.— Situated at 213-215 Pine street, 
between Sansome and Battery streets, the Mercantile LuncL is in 
the very heart of the mercantile community. It is, in its line, the 
most unique restaurant in this city. Its founder is Mr. Charles 
Claffey, whose experience in the catering and management of this 
most popular restaurant has been the secret of its continued success. 



THE INNER MLAN 73 

The Mercantile launch was founded in 1874, and from that period to 
the present has been under the management of Edward Ohlen, a 
gentleman who has a keen sense of the good things of life, and who 
is always first in the market when there is anything unusual to be 
expected in the line of fur and feather. 

But not to the wants of the Inner Man alone does this pleasant 
place minister. In the outer room, where the bar and lunch 
counters are, hang some very excellent pictures, mostly by Tojetti. 
His interpretation of Tennyson's sadly beautiful incident from Enid 
when 

*' The Dead, steered by the Dumb, 
Went upward with the flood," 

is a noble work of art. "Francisco di Rimini," "Venus and Cupid," 
"Morning and Evening" ate good examples of .this artist's best 
style. A marine by Denny, the "Constitution and Guerriere" and 
the "Entrance to Havre" by a French artist, give the interior a ver}- 
interesting and attractive appearance. ♦ 

The inner room is spacious, and is daily thronged with those 
who appreciate an incomparable cuisine, good attendance and neat- 
ness beyond all criticism. Much of the character of the English 
eating house pervades the Mercantile launch. The chops and steaks 
are cut in that thick, generous fashion which one obtains in the best 
English restaurants. 

A favorite invitation among those who are inclined to be hospi- 
table, is "come to the Mercantile Eunch and have a steak." And 
they certainly are steaks and chop=! which go far to refute the state- 
ments of those travelers who like to tell tales of the wonderful beef 
and mutton they get on the other side of the pond, and that we have 
nothing to compare with them here. Those slanderers of the good 
fare of California should go to the Mercantile Lunch, and then if 
their conscience would permit them, repeat the libel. In the game 
season all that is most desirable finds its way into the kitchen, and 
"Ned" takes good care that it is properly handled by the cooks. 

CAMPI'S ITALIAN RESTAURANT.— A restaurant with a 
history is Campi's Italian restaurant, 531-533 Clay street. Signor 
Campi, its founder, was a worthy Italian, and after his death the 
control passed through the hands of several of his countrymen, until 
it was purchased b}^ Mr. I. Cuenin, the present proprietor of the 
Campi Restaurant. 



Ladies Drink Napa Soda for Complexion 



74 THE INNER IvIAN 

There is no more cosmopolitan resort in San Francisco — that 
most cosmopolitan of cities — than "Campi's." Here at the noon 
hour and in the evening at the dinner hour, one hears the language 
of France, Italy, Spain and Anglo-Saxon, as the natives of those 
countries are served according to their pleasure. There are dinners 
and breakfasts with a good wine, consisting of a menu so various 
and excellent that they are the wonder of strangers. 

Meals are served in the Italian and French styles, and it is 
nothing unusual to see on a Sunday evening over a score of families 
seated, after a day's outing, to enjoy the luxuries which "Campi's" 
affords. Is is essentially a family restaurant, and moreover one of 
those places which numbers in its list of regular customers those 
who for twenty years have been its patrons. The waiters are prompt, 
intelligent and obliging, and the list of good things to eat covers a 
wide field. "Campi's" is also a favorite rendevouz for clubs and 
'societies on anniversary nights, for among its merits the moderation 
of its charges must be numbered. The upstairs apartment is much 
used by ladies and children, though the class of people who patronize 
it, may use any portion of the restaurant desirable. 





CHAPTER X 

The Art of Dinner Service and Carving — Some Hints About the 
Placing of Fish 

GENTLEMAN should not only know some- 
thing about sauces, but also the proper way to 
carve different kinds of meats, game and poultry. 
Nowadays too many hosts are obliged, when they 
entertain, to appeal to some of their guests for 
assistance, something that may be annoying to 
the former, and certainly is troublesome to the latter. The first 
thing to be seen to by those who wish to carve well, is that they 
have the right sizes and kinds of forks and carving knives, and 
there must be a set for each kind of meat, fish, fowl and game. 
The knives should be kept well sharpened, an easy thing if they 
are passed every day over a whetstone, and the forks should be of 
steel, strong and well pointed. In order to carve well, the French 
think it necessary to stand up, and as the pieces are cut off they are 
placed collectively in a dish to be handed round the table, so that 
each person may select what piece he or she prefers. Any one can 
serve that, of course, but how does it look when pulled to pieces ? 
To serve a trout, mark with a fish knife, starting at the head, and 
extending within two inches of the tail, and then draw other lines 
starting at this one and running to the sides of the fish. A salmon 
is served in the same way as a trout, while blue fish should be 
divided into two parts longitudinally; then remove the large bone and 
cut the fish in pieces in such a way as to give each person a portion 
of back and belly. The head of a pike should be offered to a lady. 
Barbels are served in the same way as trout, and chub the same as 
pike. To serve turbot, the prince of the sea, mark a cross in the 
belly penetrating to the bone, then draw transversal lines from this 
line to the dorsal fin, dividing each slice so made into two pieces 
and send the dish round so that the guests may help themselves. 
Next serve out the belly in the same way, and then remove the 
large bone and serve the other half of the fish. Turbot should be 
accompanied with a white sauce made of butter, or with an oil 
dressing, and the tongue, as the choicest morsel, should be given to 



Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



76 THE INNER NIAN 

the principal guest. Nearly every man you meet carves a leg of 
mutton badly, and yet its tenderness almost always depends on how 
the slices are cut ofif. There are two ways of doing this. When 
you are sure the leg is from a sheep of good breed, and that it is 
really tender, take hold of it by the knuckle, with the left hand, 
and then cut the slices perpendicularly from the joint to the bone of 
the filet; then remove the muscle of the knuckle, next turn the leg 
over and slice off the back part. For this essentially primative way of 
carving, gourmets substitute carving by survilinear slices which 
render the pieces more succulent. But neither of these ways of 
carving a leg of mutton should be resorted to, except when the meat 
is of the best quality and of great tenderness. In other cases the 
best way to proceed is to cut horizontally instead of perpendicularly 
— that is, cut off the slices parallel with the bone; the slices should 
be cut very thin, and when a sufficient number have been sliced off 
you should plunge the fork into what remains of the leg, and let the 
gravy run over them. A few drops of lemon juice and a little 
pepper and salt added will improve the flavor amazingly. Apropos, 
here is an anecdote about Brillat Savarin, which may be profitably 
repeated. During a journey he stopped one day at a countr}- inn, 
and asked for supper. He was told there was nothing for him, and 
when he looked in surprise at an enormous leg of mutton, which 
was slowly roasting before a bright fire, and at several dishes that 
were cqoking on the range, the innkeeper said that they were 
already bespoken by some travelling merchants. "Go and ask 
them, said Brillat Savarin, if they cannot make room for one more 
at their table, and say that I will pay my scot, not only with money, 
but in merry stories." The innkeeper shook his head doubtfully, 
and went out of the room. Presently he returned with a positive 
refusal. The merchants wished to discuss some business matter, 
and the presence of a stranger would prevent them doing so. The 
innkeeper kindly offered him some beans, which was the only thing 
he could venture to take from the dishes ordered by his other 
guests. " All right," said Brillat Savarin, "but permit me to place 
my beans in the basting so that if I am to have no roast, I may at 
least have a little of its flavor. The host consented, and turned out 
a third of the saucepan of beans into the receptacle below the leg of 
mutton, into which the fat was dripping as it turned. Brillat 
Savarin installed himself at the chimney corner, and whenever the 
cook's back was turned he plunged a larding fork into the generous 
sides of the leg of mutton. A rich and abundant gravy flowed from 



XHK ir^NER NIAN 77 

it, and as no part of it escaped the prodding, all its best qualities 
were transferred to his dish of beans, while the churlish merchants 
had only the tough and juiceless remains of what had been a superb 
joint. Americans have much to learn from the French about 
cooking game. The wild duck is not always a tender bird, and it 
can be made tolerably tough in the kitchen. A canvas-back duck, 
should n^ver te cooked less than fifteen nor more than eighteen 
minutes, and then in a very hot oven. It should be carved in 
slices, and in cutting the wings and thighs are sacrificed. Most 
wild ducks should be served so under done that the blood will run 
when they are sliced up; the juice of two lemons may be squeezed 
into their blood; also add a few drops of oil, a little salt and 
some pepper, after which let the birds soak a few minutes in the 
gravy thus prepared, before handing them round. In the case of 
teal duck there is no need of cutting off the legs and wings. A wood 
cock should not ^e drawn, what drops from it when cooking should 
be caught on a toasted piece of bread, on which the bird is to be 
served, seasoned with pepper, salt and lemon juice. In carving, 
first remove the legs and wings, then divide the body lengthwise. 
The wing is the most delica:;e morsel, but the thighs have more 
flav^or. Do -not throw away the carcass or bones unless you wish to 
commit high culinary treason. Mashed in a mortar they will form 
a puree, which will give an excellent flavor to a black gravy which 
you ought to serve with the bird. French gourmets inclose the 
head of this bird in a coating of tallow, broil it over a candle flame, 
and then eat it. It is only a mouthful, but it is a divine morsel. 
Snipe should be cut in two longitudinally. Partridge plays an 
important role among game birds; there are two kinds, the gray and 
the red. Grimod de la Reymiere, in his Almanach des Gourmands, 
says that the difference is the same as that between a bishop and a 
cardinal. To carve a partridge, first remove the right wing and leg, 
then those on the left side, and next divide the body in two length- 
wise. Only young partridges should be roasted; the older birds are 
better made up in salamis or stews. Quail is served rolled in a thin 
slice of bacon, and inclosed in a grape leaf. It is also cut in two, 
like real reed and rail birds, and larks may be treated in the same 
way. The thrush is cooked like the quail, but it may be carved 
either limb by limb, or cut in two lengthwise. There are more 
ways than one of carving a turkey. One way is to cut from the 
breasts square slices, and proceed in the same way for all the fleshy 
parts of the bird. Though this is an easy way for the carver, it has 



Do you Drink ? Then Napa Soda is your Tipple 



78 THIS INNER MAN 

the drawback of allowing all the natural gravy to escape, and to 
leave the most delicate morsels clinging to the carcass. Or you 
may remove the legs separately, place them to one side and then do 
the same to the wings, but cut them up in pieces of suitable sizes; 
uext cut off the white meat as close to the carcass as possible, and 
lastly, break up the carcass. A third way, after the wings have 
been removed, is to break the carcass above the crupper, wliich 
remains attached to the legs, and forms sort of a hood which is 
vulgarly called the bishop's cap. This is a good way to serve. 
Carve when there are only a few persons at the table. Chickens and 
capons should be carved very much the same way as turkeys. The 
legs make two pieces, the wings three, the white meat is left in 
whole slices, and the carcass is separated into six ^)ieces. Chickens 
and capons are much improved by the use of truffles, but, as George 
Grant will tell you, truffles are not to be got in America. Moliere 
owed the title of one of his masterpieces to truffles. He was dining 
at Chantilly with Prince de Conde and the Secretary of the Papal 
Nuncio, a purple-faced red-nosed monk, who never opened his 
mouth except to stuff food in it. The only thing he said during the 
repast was when the second course came on, and then clasping his 
hands in adoring delight at the sight of a great dish of magnificent 
truffles, he exclaimed, " Tart offalli ! tart offalli! " the Italian name 
for this tuber. His sensual ecstacy impressed the word on Moliere's 
memory, and out of it he made the name of Tartuffe, which he gave 
to his celebrated personation of sanctimonious hypocrisy. Rossini 
was also exceedingly fond of truffles. One day when dining with 
Victor Hugo, seeing the poet mixing them upon his plate with 
vegetables and the gravy and meat of a ragout, he could not repress 
a pained exclamation. "What is the matter?" asked his host. 
" As a poet I admire you," answered the illustrious maistro, "but 
as an eater I despise you." To have truffles and bananas as cheap 
as potatoes was an Utopia which Balzac unsuccessfully attempted to 
realize at his little country house near Ville d'Avary. And Byron 
once called truffles "edible roses." A goose is carved the same as a 
wild duck (this is also the ca.se with a tame duck) and should be 
served up with turnips or olives. It should be sufficiently well done 
for it to be po.ssible to carve it with a spoon or the point of a knife. 
Pigeons when roasted are divided into four pieces. When no com- 
pany is present the most equitable way is to cut a pigeon in two- 
longitudinally. 



THE INNER MAN '^ 

MOORE, HUNT& CO.— When the "inner man" calls for 
some good and wholesome stimulant, Kentucky whisky at once 
suggests itself, and Messrs. Moore, Hunt & Co., of 404 Front street, 
the agents of Jesse Moore & Co.'s Whisky of Louisville are remetn- 
bered. These celebrated whiskies have long been the choice of the 
best connoisseurs, because of their deliciously mellow flavor, and 
unrivalled purity. Those distinctive qualities are jealously guarded, 
and the result is the great demand that exists for them on the 
Pacific Coast. All these whiskies are shipped around Cape Horn, 
and the firm always have from one to three cargoes en route to this 
city. The advantage to them from this long sea voyage as com- 
pared to whiskies shipped by rail is manifest. About a year ago, 
Mr. Thomas Kirkpatrick, who had been for a long time previously 
connected with the house became a member of the firm, and with. 
Mr. H. B. Hunt attends to its extensive western business, while Mr. 
G. H. Moore resides in Louisville, and manages that end of the line. 
The firm has been in exisience in San Francisco since August, 1853, 
and has, by reason of the rapid increase in its business, moved from 
California street to the present large depot, with its great storage 
capacity, on 404 Front street. In those vast cellars rest thousands 
of gallons of this renowned whisky, some fifteen and twenty years 
of age, and all carrying that fine bouquet and delicate aroma which 
has made the Jesse Moore whisky a credit to Kentucky, the whisky 
producing State of the Union. Skill and experience in the blending 
process, great age, and transportation by sea, are the agents to 
which those brands owe their prominence, taking in consideration, 
of course, the absolute purity of the whisky as it conies from the 
still. The untiring efforts of Messrs. Hunt and Kirkpatrick to 
make the public acquainted with the merits of the Jesse Moore 
whiskies have led to the position they occupy to-day, and now 
their shipments go forth to every city and village west of the Rocky 
Mountains. 

The continued and ever-increasing demand for the Jesse Moore 
brand is a convincing proof that the best goods will always hold their 
own, while those of an inferior qualit}- must go to the wall. Again 
an additional reason for the popularity of these whiskies is that they 
really contain all the true medicinal properties which are to be found 
in pure liquor, and none but good eflfects arise from their use in 
moderation. 



Ghiradelli's Breakfast Cocoa. The Best 



8^ THE INNER. IvlAN 

MERCHANTS' EXCHANGE.— The Merchants' Exchange 
Saloon kept by James Kearney, and adjoining the " Change" room 
is one of the best known institutions of its kind in this city. Here 
is a place where indeed it may be truthfully said that the good 
things to eat and drink of life are .served in profusion. The 
magnificent roa.sts that smoke on the table, the huge curries, the 
great bowls of salad, seen when put on at ii o'clock each day, 
sufficient to feed an army, l^ut the host that swarm in from Change, 
and the street, quickly demolishes them, and in a very short space- 
of time, they are replaced by others of the .same quality. The 
wines and liquors are, of course, beyond criticism, and fitting 
accompaniments to the very excellent lunch. 

THE MINT. — The Mint, 605 Commercial street, is conducted 
by Edward Edwards, a very competent and very popular gentleman, 
who has had a long experience in his business. Mr. Edwards enjoys 
a very first-class order of custom, and .shows his appreciation of it, 
by keeping a very first-da.ss line of .soft goods. The Mint is the 
resort of many leading citizens, and, having several private rooms 
leading from the main saloon, affords opportunities for those pleasant 
conferences which are so delightful over a social glass. An air 
of homely comfort is one of its leading characteristics. The old 
brandies and mellow whiskies at the Mint are inducements which 
often bring its patrons many blocks to indulge in the.se comforts. 

THE BOULEVARD.— The Boulevard, of which Mr. B. B. 
Dobbas is the proprietor, stands on the northwest corner of Califor- 
nia street and Central avenue. It is a favorite halting-place for those 
who take a trip on the Jackson or California street railroad. The 
main saloon is spacious and handsomely furnished, and a well- 
selected lot of reading matter finds a place on the tables, for the con- 
venience of tho.se who may have to wait for a car, or wish to while 
away an hour before making the return trip. There are parlors for 
ladies and their escorts, where refreshments of a liquid character, or 
a plate of sandwiches are served to tho.se desiring them. The Boule- 
vard is one of tho.se road-end places which are really a necessity to 
travellers. Neatness and a disposition to make all who cross its 
port-ils comfortable are the characteristics of this institution. On 
holidays it is usually thronged ; and, indeed, at all times, receives 
its full share of patronage. The class of liquors .sold aie of the best, 
and the lunch-counter is always supplied with a good joint, and 



THE> INNER IvIAN 81 

appetizing snacks for the hungry wayfarer. These are among the 
principal reasons why the Boulevard has become so popular. It is also 
a retired place, free from noise and clamor where friends may chat and 
enjoy their refreshment without disturbance. There is always a 
pleasure and recreation in getting even a little way out of town, and 
the comfort one enjoys at the Boulevard doubly enhances this enjoy- 
ment. 

"LUKIN'S" — The pleasant and sunny saloon, of which Joseph 
A. Lukin is the proprietor, and which has long been known as 
"Lukin's," is at 446 California, and is among the most popular 
resorts of its class in San Francisco. Mr. Lukin is a pioneer saloon 
keeper of this city. Years ago, before the New City Hall was built, 
and when the tales of how the water came up to Montgomery street 
were not yet regarded as chestnuts, Mr. Lukin' s place on that 
thoroughfare, between California and Pine, on the east side, was a 
favorite rendezvous. When he moved to the present place, his 
friends followed him, because they knew that the same good S5^stem 
would prevail. Mr. Lukin possesses to perfection the art of making 
a first-class mixed drink. He is also an inventor and departs from 
the beaten track to concoct new draughts of delight. Cooling drinks 
in warm weather, hot drinks in cold weather, and all round drinks 
to suit every kind of people, are to him an open book. His whis- 
kies, brandies, and indeed all bis wines and liquors are procvired 
from the very best houses and are of the finest quality. It is not at 
every bar in this city that we can be assured of getting good liquors- 
Some of pretentious appearance, gaudy bar-keepers, expensive crys- 
tal, and big mirrors, serve their customers with stuff, which the 
much-abused corner grocery men would disdain to handle. Mr. 
Lukin's place is neat and unpretentious, but the good stviff is there, 
and that is the main consideration. 

MAISON TORTONI— The personal popularity of this restau- 
rateur has much to do with the success of the restaurant in this city. 
The Maison Tortoni, 109 O'Farrell street, Pierre Carrere proprietor, 
is a good illustration of this fact. Though the Tortoni has been in 
existence but a little over a year, its handsome apartments are 
thronged daily with those epicures who, having known Monsieur 
Carrere in the past, felt confident that the wants of the Inner Man 
would never be neglected in any establishment under his supervision. 



A Napa Soda Ijemonade is a Luxury 




82 THE INNER IMAN 

It is needless to say that the very highest skill in the art cuisine is 
exercised at the Tortoni, and that the wines are the best quality. 
The dining-rooms on the second floor are luxuriantly furnished, and 
at the same time an air of supreme comfort pervades everywhere- 
The perfect sj^stem that reigns, the utter absence of confusion, and 
long and tedious delays are among the characteristics which have 
led the popularity of the Tortoni. The kitchen is a picture of clean- 
liness and neatness, is well ventilated, and the cold storage rooms in 
the rear are an important addition to this all important department- 
There is nothing that the markets of San Francisco contain that is 
not furnished at the Tortoni in its due season. 




CHAPTER XI 

Making and Dbinking of Wine — The Red and White Wines of the 
Gkekks — Wines Pkevious to the Decay of the Roman Empire- 
Glasses FROM which the Various Wines Should be Drank 

, T^ 1 ,r~ -,^ VEr.Y WHERE in ancient law we find 
the mention, among the more civilized 
nations, of the making and the drinking 
of wine. It is cut upon the stones of 
Egypt, dating back to ages whose num- 
bers have never been defined. It was 
used in India in ages more remote even 
than those of Egypt. Then came the period of Sacred Scriptures, 
then the Greeks, the Romans, the Gauls, the Germans, and last, but 
not least, in our minds, the Californians. All these people used wine 
in a measure, and sometimes without a measure, in their sacred 
rights, public ceremonies, and social intercourse. Of the wines of 
India we have but little record. Evidently, in those hot regions 
wines could not have been made. They must have been brouo-ht 
from cooler countries into India. Nevertheless, we have the legend 
that Bacchus came from India, and brought from that section of the 
world, the use of wine, the vine itself ar.d agriculture, and many 
arts and sciences. The wine of Egypt we have some knowledo-e of. 
It has been found in the tombs of kings and other important person- 
ages. Those wines were found to be impregnated with cloves 
cinnamon, nutmegs and other spices. It may have been pleasing to 
those people to drink such wines, but to us it would seem more like 
a very peculiar kind of punch. The wines of Canaan and adjacent 
'lands we have some idea of from the Scriptures; we know, for 
instance, they had red wines. They do not mention they had white 
wines. Solomon was not only great, wise and experienced, but was 
also technical in his attainments. Wines are only red when they 
are new, and that when they get old, they are no longer red, but 
become tawny. Very evidently Solomon, with all his wisdom, had 
been incautious enough on some occasion, to have taken the new 
red wine and suffered thereby. The wines of the Greeks were said 



Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



84 THEINNER 1V1A.N 

to be both red and white. We have clear record of this, and for a 
good time they were kept comparatively pure. Finally, from con- 
tact with Eastern nations, they began likewise to spice their wines 
and thus spoiled them. The wines of the Romans were never kept 
pure. Even the Falernian were mixed more or less with spices. And 
when we read of those magnificent feasts and banquets, which have 
ever since been unrivaled, we can only imagine from the remnants 
that are left, and the descriptions given by old authorities — Pliny, 
Vara, and others — that nearly all their wines were spiced. Samples 
that were discovered in Pompeii conclusivel}^ shawed their wines 
were spiced at that time. It was the general custom, especially 
among the higher class, who were the largest consumers to have 
their wines spiced. 

The wines of the Gauls were the purest wines of the period, 
coining just previous to the decay of the Roman Empire. The vines 
destined for wine-making were originally conve3'ed to the .southern 
coast of Gaul by sailing vessels, and were derived either from the 
southern part of Italy, or pos.sibly from the Grecian Archipelago. 
These were first landed in the neighbourhood of Marseilles, accord- 
ing to accepted record, some time before the advent of the Caesars, 
and thence sprang the present French wine trade. As periods went 
on, the planting of vines spread northward and westward through- 
out ancient Gaul, and gradually attained renown. The earliest of 
these wines that gained any noteworthy reputation were those pro- 
duced in the Burgundy district. The other parts of the pre.sent 
France gained their reputation long after, and comparatively at a 
recent period. The wines of the Burgundy district won consider- 
able favor with the Romans, as well they might in contrast with 
the .sour wines, made from vines trained on trees, and which were 
only made palatable b}' the addition of honey or spices, or by being 
boiled down and cooked. The German drinks wine at all times, 
very often sandwiched in the shape of a liquid sandwich, between two 
glasses of beer, and finds his pleasure in this mode of filling himself 
up. The American drinks whisky during the day, and wine only 
when entertaining friends. The Frenchman rarely drinks wine 
between meals, reserving that .satisfaction for the table, or imme- 
diately afterwards. The Spaniard uses his wine as do the French. 
Likewise does the Portuguese. The Italian drinks wine at table, 
and whenever he is thirsty. The Englishman drinks his port at 
table, and ale to quench thirst. The Russian drinks his whi.sky or 
spirits at any time, and his champagne throughout his meal, if he 



XHE^ INNER NIAN 85 

has the means to gratify his propensity. The Hungarian drinks his 
wine whenever he can get it. From time immemorial numerous 
rules have been laid down for the setting out of dinners, intended to 
show some formal consideration to invited guests. These rules 
treated of the different wines that were to appear at certain times, 
and what dishes were to be served during that time, what number 
of wines there should be used on grand and formal banquets; what 
wine should first be presented, and which last. Within this century 
these rules have been modified hundreds of times, and in fact, there 
is no definite rule to be laid down. At the beginning of the century 
it was considered the thing — and fashion is a great power — to have 
from ten to fifteen different wines or m^re. This often amounted to 
twenty, and sometimes thirty different wines at each dinner or 
banquet. Wines ought to be presented at the proper temperature, 
and champagne as cold as it can be made without absolutely 
freezing. No ice should ever be used in champagne or sparkling 
wines. The bottle should be put upon or covered with ice before 
serving. This is done so simply and the satisfaction resulting so 
great it is difficult to .see wh}^ so little attention is paid to it. 
Champagne drank with ice in it is merely drinking for show. It 
leaves no pleasant taste, makes the wine flat, destroys its flavor, and 
depresses its beautiful, sparkling qualities. The cooling of cham- 
pagne as previously mentioned can be done very easily. Lay the 
bottle down in a basin or tin pan, break up a handful of ice, put it 
on the bottle, sprinkle with a little salt, and cover with a wet piece 
of flannel. The result of laying the bottle down in this manner for 
two hours will yield the most gratifying results, and the wine be 
put in its best 'condition. Claret and Burgundy, on the contrary, 
should be moderately warm. A gentle warmth brings out an 
appreciation of body, diminishes the astringency, and develops all 
the finer qualities prominently, including that of bouquet; and one 
is surprised to note the absolute carelessness, or downright ignorance 
in which good clarets are drank and served. The temperature makes 
or mars the reputation of a claret as much as any other cause. In warm 
weather icing of claret is done for the purpose of quenching thirst, but 
such practice cannot possibly give any further qualification and cer- 
tainly destroys any of the finer qualities the wine itself might possess. 
We have all of us seen pretended wine drinkers add a dozen lumps of 
sugar to their claret, and drink it with untold relish. Such people 
do not deserve the name of wine-drinkers, and are totally unfit to 
pronounce upon the merits of any wine, and if a claret needs the 



Napa Soda Water Cures Byspepsia 



86 THE INKER MAN 



1 



addition of sugar to make it drinkable, then it is better not to drink 
it at all. White wine, such as Sauterne and Rhine wines and others 
of similar character, should be drank comparatively cold or cool. 
While a chilling temperature destroys the flavor of claret, it seem- 
ingly has the contrary effect on white wines, bringing out their 
bouquet and giving them an agreeable, fresh, spicy taste, that wine- 
drinkers seek for; and when found, always admire. Port, Sherry, 
and Madeira, all being fortified wines, containing certain amounts of 
unfermented sugar, are usually termed hot wines, from the effect 
that the brandy, entering into their composition, creates upon the 
palate, and po.ssibly the heating sensation they have upon the body. 
These should be drank only in moderation, and rather after the meal 
than during its progress, though Sherry and Madeira are often taken 
with oysters, or immediately after the soup, and this custom seem- 
ingl5% in nowise mars their qualities. These wines should never 
be drank cold, but should be partaken of at a moderately warm 
degree of temperature, and, if used in Winter, should be gently 
heated; in Summer they would be about right if stored in a proper 
place. These wines lose in body and flavor by being chilled, and 
Port especially suffers most severely under a lowering temperature. 
Through exposure to cold it acquires acold, thin, harsh, acid taste, 
often akin to bitterness, and loses nearly all the characteristic quali- 
ties that this class of wine is admired for. Sherry and Madeira 
apparently lose their body, become thin, hide their rich, mellow 
oiliness, and lose their flavor almost entirely. 

There is as much gratification and satisfaction in drinking out 
of a proper glass, almost as the drinking of a much better wine of a 
particular class. There is as much art in the selection of glasses 
from which the wine is to be partaken, as there is in the .selection of 
wine itself from among a number of wines. 

Champagne should be drank only out of thin glasses, as thin as 
can be procured, and of pure crystal, absolutely colorless, and of 
such a shape as will best show the sparkling qualities. 

Unfortunately, at a later period, the method of adding ice to 
wine came into vogue, and the glass called a pattera wine cup, 
used by the Romans, became fashionable. It is of beautiful propor- 
tions, but there is not a place through which the sparkle can be 
viewed. And this flat surface has no tendency to show the sparkle. 
The bubbles, what there are of them, arise and form a string of 
beads along the edges. 



THE INNER JvlAN 87 

At nine out of ten banquets, the waiter fills the glass with ice, 
putting the Champagne on top, thus mixing your Champagne with 
water. There is another very excellent glass, which, although not 
as good as the first, is of fair presentable appearance. The stem is 
not as long as the first one, nor the bowl as flat as the paiiera, which 
modifications permit the watching of the sparkling beads arising from 
the bottom, as well as their graceful spreading to the borders of the 
glass. Claret glasses, like those for Champagne, ought to be very 
thin, of medium size, blown from crystal, cut sharp, and absolutely 
colorless. They should be perfectly clear, and without any ornamenta- 
tion. These glasses should be with a stem, and the upper diameter of 
the same dimension as the lower part of the bowl. These equal 
proportions have good reason for thus being so. Take, for instance, 
a claret — one of its pleasing effects is its display of color; this color 
may be dark or may be light tinted, but if it is equally intense at the 
top and bottom of the bowl and brilliant, it is alwa3'S considered beau- 
tiful. In tapering glasses the claret may be of the proper tint or hue 
at the top, but at the tapering bottom would take upon itself a 
yellowish tinge, striking the eye unfavorably. A claret glass should 
be colorless, still there is one departure from this general rule that 
might be allowed — it is that glass having its upper edge tinted with 
a rosy tint, gradually diminishing in color as it descends and fades 
almost to colorless crystal. Such glasses tend to give the color of 
the wine a richer hue, and more attractive tint, and are preeminently 
the glasses for Burgundy wines, whose color they deepen, and cheat 
the eye into a belief of greater body and more generous quality. 
There is nothing like cheating the palate with a glass — the wine 
really tastes so much better, simply because it pleases the eye. "While 
this kind of a glass is but half full the same depth of color prevails 
from top to bottom, owing to the deeper tint of the upper part, and 
the visual effect is of the most pleasing nature. Glasses thus tinted 
should have crystal white stems and feet, so as to present a pleasing 
contrast. 

BUTlyER'S. — Butler's English Ale House, 7 Sutter street, with 
an entrance on Market street, is the resort of many old countrymen 
who love to drink their half-and-half from the shining pewter. 
Butler's chicken cask is a good brand of Bourbon whiskey, and is 
well appreciated. But among his choice tipples a fine and potent old 
Scotch whiskey which has travelled twice round the Horn in a 
Sherry cask leads the van. There is a neatly furnished snuggery at 



Indigestion Dies where Napa Soda Lives 



88 THE INNER NIAN 

Butler's, where the English illustrated papers, as well as the city- 
weeklies and dailies rest upon the table. Cold and delicious pig's 
head is the piece de risistayice of Butler's lunch table ; and in the 
trouting season an appetizing fish, deliciously cooked, caught by- 
Mr, Butler himself, who is a successful and enthusiastic angler. 

GIBB'S — ^James Gibb, at 617 Merchant Street, makes a feature 
of the Belmont whiskej' which he imports himself direct from Ken- 
tucky. Mr. Gibb is an old timer, and if the shades of the ancient 
Califomians who refreshed themselves from the cares of business at 
his bar were to be again summoned from the vasty deep, they would 
form a procession so large that the confines of that narrow thorough- 
fare might not enclo.se them. A fine class of Port and Madeira, with 
a good brand of cigars, are among the choice things with which Mr. 
Gibb regales his patrons, and his mixed drinks have long been 
regarded as attaining the summit of artistic .skill. He is one of the 
few who thoroughly understand the manufacture of a Sherry Cobbler, 
or a viint julep — those delights of the past. 

THE SAUTERNES OF CALIFORNIA— When the white 
wines of the region near Bordeaux, known as Sauternes to the world, 
were first seen at the Court of France, one of the courtiers perceiving 
their striking peculiarity asked the King, "what are you doing now; 
giving us wine with \y\\sgoiit de pierre a fusil? " The gun flint taste 
nevertheless won the favor of the French Court and all the world 
besides. The best of the Sauternes became renowned as the rot des 
vins et vin des rois. 

To the Bordeaux trade, the.se white wines are known under 
many classifications, but to the consumer in other lands a certain 
peculiar flavor common, more or less, to all of them has been 
recognized as that of Sauternes wine, whether the wine be of small 
or great quality. Even the petits vins blancs which are often known 
as vin des graves have been dignified by the importing and bottling 
houses as light Sauternes. The term as a distinction has therefore 
lost much of its local significance and become, as is true of Port, 
from Oporto, Sherry from Xeres, Burgundy from Bourgogne, ex- 
pressive of a typical characteristic of a class of wines. The mer- 
chants of Bordeaux have been largely responsible for this apparent 
robbery of local fame. This feature of trade^is more conspicuous in 
the case of the wines of Chateau Yquem, which, being made only 
from the berries richest in sugar, are celebrated for their golden 



THE INNER MAN 



89 



sweetness accompanied still with the characteristic flavors and 
bouquets of Sauternes in their development. Sweet Sauternes after 
the style of this great vintage have been labeled Chateau Yquem, the 
true marks of the genuine Chateau wines being avoided; the name 
of the wine having become in a measure typical. 

The great red wines of Bordeaux come from the Medoc region 
nearer the sea than the Sauternes. Custom again here has been 
capricious and popular terms are confusing. In Paris, the common 
expression to indicate a Medoc red wine is simply vin de Bordeattx 
uttered with a somewhat reverential tone of voice. An order for 
line boiiteille de Bordeaux always causes the waiter, to hesitate and 
look the customer in the face as if to determine whether it would be 
safe to attempt an imposition. 

In England, the Bordeaux red wines are known as Clarets. 
Dry red wines of other vintages and flavor are not recognized as 
Clarets. In the United States, however, this term has a generally 
broader signification and to most people is held to include even the 
Burgundies. Practically in California the wine makers and the 
trade define all dry red wines as Clarets. 

And recently we have our California Sauternes, Haut Sauternes, 
Chateau Yquem and Medocs. Some of the French people are 
offended at this apparent presumption, this apparent wholesale 
theft of French reputations. Many of the French jury at the Paris 
Exposition of 1889 considered it even impossible that a champagne 
could come from America ; yet how many Americans are there who 
understand by the term anything more than a distinction in a class, 
or kind of wine, rather than as the French do, the distinction as to 
place of production. 

There is a simple justification for the use of terms, which are 
now used to describe the general, or salient characteristics, by which 
products are recognized, provided there is no pretense of fake origin. 
Those peculiarities by which a consumer has been accustomed 
immediately to recognize a low grade, or high grade, a light or 
heavy, an old or young, as a Bordeaux or Medoc Claret, or as the 
case may be, a Sauterne, are not due to locality ; but to the certain 
varieties of vines grown in suitable locations under favorable climatic 
conditions. So in California, we have the Sauterne grapes, first 
famous in France ; the Medoc grapes, first famous as Bordeaux. 

The Cresta Blanca Souvenir vintages of California, produced by 
Chas. A. Wetmore, at his vineyard called Cresta Blanca, near Liver- 
more, have been the direct result of intelligent study of the hio-hest 

Ladies Drink Napa Soda for Complexion 



90 THE INNER NIAN 

qualities of French wines in their native homes. Mr. Wetmore 
visited France and succeeded in wresting from nature the secrets of 
the essential qualities most admired ^nd everywhere recogni/.ed as 
belonging to the highest types. He has imported the cuttings of 
the identical vines of the great Medoc Clarets, the Sauternes and 
other celebrated vintages. Then, after exhaustive researches in soil 
and climatic conditions, he has succeeded in selecting the proper place, 
where his present successes indicate that truly grand wines of Saii- 
terne and Medoc types can be produced oftener than in the famous 
districts near Bordeaux. Here the year of grand wines may be 
confidently expected are the year of poor quality is little dreaded. 
In Sauternes there is good reason to believe that the greatest achieve- 
ments of France will be frequently surpassed. In Medocs the type 
is modified by greater development of body and flavor, without loss 
of the essential hygienic properties. To suit the British taste, 
Bordeaux Clarets are generally blended with a little rich Spanish 
wine to give more body and strength. Such profanation will never 
be needed here. 

In the standard English work, "Redding on Wines," the best 
qualities of Medoc Clarets are described as follows : 

"The wine when in perfection, should be of rich color, a bouquet 
partaking of the violet, very fine, and of very agreeable flavor. It 
should be strong without intoxicating, revive the stomach, and not 
affect the head ; leaving the breath pure and the mouth fresh." 
' The residents of Burgundy speak contemptuously of the cold wines 
(vinsfroids) of Bordeaux and extol the generous vintages of their 
own grapes, which are different from those of Medoc. The Bor- 
deaux people refuse to drink Burgundy, calling it hot {chaud^ and 
heady {capiteax). For the same reason the greater number of Cali- 
fornia red wines are said to be " more like Burgundy than Claret." 

But the peculiar h5'gienic quality, that absence of headiness in 
the fine Bordeaux Clarets, is reproduced by the Medoc varieties of 
grapes at Cresta Blanca, with superior color, strength and flavor. 
So are the great and seductive qualities of the Sauternes, Haut- 
Sauternes and Chateau Yquem types making Cresta Blanca famous 
already. The connoisseur also has his opinion fortified by the 
decision of the International Jury of wine experts at the Paris 
Exposition of 18S9 which awarded to the Cresta Blanca vintages a 
gold medal. 

Cresta Blanca wines are not machine-made like too many others. 
The most painstaking hand-labor methods, after the time-honored 



THE INNER NIAN 91 

custom prevailing at the Chateaux of France, are followed and no 
expense is spared to constantly improve in quality. As the vines 
grow older, the younger wines are improving. Those who would 
know them at their best should lay away some of these vintages 
for age in bottle while not neglecting to enjoy their present excel- 
lencies. 

Cresta Blanca is reached by going to Livermore, forty-eight miles 
by rail from San Francisco, then by a picturesque wagon-road four 
miles to the mouth of a noble caiiou on the frostless slopes of which 
the vines and olives grow. Cresta Blanca is likewise celebrated for 
pure olive oil with a perfume as delicate as the orange blossom. 
The wines are stored in deep tunnels piercing the calcareous silicious 
3ub-soil. 




Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 




CHAPTER XII 

Rapid Eating, One of the Great Evils of the American Social Svstem- 
Thk Three Best Digestors — The Frequency with Which Food 
Should be Taken 



HAT IS TRUE OF PUNISHMENTS, of sports, 
of stimulants and narcotics is just as true of ordinary 
food; we cannot and do not bear the coarse and 
ill-cooked diet of the last generation. The old 
Northmen ate raw flesh, and it is believed that 
the old Gauls were cannibals. Just as claret, Rhine wine, cigars 
and cigarettes have taken the place of port and brand}', of 
long pipes and strong tobacco, of chewing and snuff-taking, so 
the oatmeal porridge, the rye and Indian bread, the salt pork 
and beef, the eels and smoked fish on which our fathers thrived, 
have given place to white flour bread, light biscuit, fresh and 
tender beef and mutton and delicious fruits — all prepared and 
cooked in a style that harmonizes with our capacious appetites 
and susceptible organizations. The remains of the old customs 
of eating and drinking are yet seen among the distant rural 
classes, and among the abjectly poor of the cities, especiall}'' 
among our emigrant population. The different nations vary 
much in their susceptibility in this respect. The sour bread, 
cold sausages, strong cheese and abundant lager beer on which 
our German friends thrive, would drive the average American 
to despair. To what extent this refinement of organization 
and corresponding refinement of dietetics and cookery will go, 
no one can now well foresee. ^\xQ/o7irth law requires that our meals 
should be fcisurely enjoyed, and at a pleasant social iahX^. All writers 
on hygiene — even the very worst agree that it is better to eat slowly 
than hastily; that the food should be well masticated, and leisurely 
swallowed. This is one of the very few directions found in our pop- 
ular diet treatises, that are in accord with recent science, and sus- 
tained by experience. There is no doubt that rapid eating is one of 
the greatest evils of the American social system. It is the result 
partlj' of our climate, partly of our constitution, and partly of the 

J2 



the: irMNKR. NIAX 93 

strifes and necessities of our pioneer life. On the continent of 
Europe, as all travellers know, the habits are verj' different ; even 
the peasantry of France and Germany take more time at their meals 
than tlie laboring classes with us. National differences are also 
observed in the habits of taking beverages. The custom of drinking 
or rather guzzling at public bars, is not recognized among the better 
orders of foreign society, and in England is only allowed to the poor 
and degraded. When the Parisian desires a glass of brandy or cor- 
dial he sits down in a cafe and takes his time for the luxury, mean- 
while reading a newspaper or chatting with a friend. The Yankee 
would gulp down twice the quantity of liquor while the Frenchman 
was giving his orders to the waiter. When an American soda water 
establishment was first opened in the boulevards in Paris, crowds of 
Frenchmen used to stand before the doors and windows, laugh- 
ing and jeering at the novel sight of men pouring down a tumbler- 
ful of liquor at one gulp. It was a long time before the French peo- 
ple could be induced to partake of the very agreeable luxury, and as 
soon as they began to patronize the establishment in large numbers 
it was necessary to provide tables and chairs where they might sit 
and sip the foaming soda water as they were accustomed to sip their 
cordials and liqueurs. If the habit of pouring down fluid, even pure 
water, into the stomach is injurious, how much more so must be the 
shoveling in of solid and half-masticated food ? Rapid feeding over- 
taxes the stomach and interferes with digestion, just as a too rapid 
flow of ideas upon the mind overtaxes the brain and interferes with 
the successful performance of its functions. To preach on this sub- 
ject is almost idle. A man who dines at a table where all his com- 
panions eat on the jump, finds it as hard to act independently as it is 
to walk slowly 'mid the press of Market street, or to saunter at ease 
in the ranks of a flying army. Haste is as contagious as some of our 
worst diseases, and very few can suffer long exposure to it without 
showing the effects of the poison. The only hope of a reform in the 
dietetic habits of the Americans lies in the gradual development of a 
better fashion of dining than now prevails among us. The differen 
between the habits of the English and the Americans in this respect 
is as wide as the Atlantic. An English dinner, to the American who 
partakes of it for the first time, is an event in his history. The courses 
are so arranged and sub-divided, that it is impossible to eat more 
than a little at a time, and at the end of the meal — which usually 
occupies from one to two hours — he hardl)^ knows whether he has 
been eating at all. The time passes agreeably in social converse, 



Do you Drink ? Then Napa Soda is your Tipple 



94 THE INXt:K IVIAX 

and the stomach receives its burdens so gradually and imperceptibly 
that it has full time to marshall its forces as they are needed, and 
thus digest with ease an amount of food which, if hastily swallowed, 
would cause direct distress. Savages, who eat with their fingers, 
are always greedy and rapid eaters. The introduction of forks in 
the seventeeth century has contributed much towards a more calm 
and refined habit of dining. The poorest club conceivable is better 
than solitude. Those whom circumstances force to board themselves 
do well to keep each other company. Two or three, or even more, 
can join their forces, thus providing larger variety, greater comfort, 
better appetites and more prosperous digestion. For many organi- 
zations, solitar}'^ dining is slow death. There are those who can bear 
it, just as there are those who can bear vegetarianism, abstinence 
from muscular exercise, or confinement in impure air ; but the sug- 
gestions here given must be for the average, and not for the excep- 
tions. And yet we should bear in mind that those who survive long- 
continued violations of hygienic laws, might perhaps have been more 
sturdy, and achieved even larger success, had they lived more in 
conformity with those laws. A disadvantage of restaurants is that 
they compel their patrons to select dishes by the name on the carte, 
and not by their appearance and flavor when brought on the table. 
The great objection to dining by a bill of fare is that we cannot tell 
what we most desire until we see the articles of food, and inhale their 
savory fragrance. French names, with high prices annexed, are at 
best poor appetizers. This is a philosophical explanation of the fact, 
that, sitting down to a public table, we often study over the schedule 
in nervous despair, and then decide upon a dish, which, as soon as it 
is placed before us, we find we have no relish for. Nothing can 
redeem the life at a public table, but a pleasant circle of very dear 
friends to share our meal with us, as is the custom in Paris. The 
maxim : " Chatted food is ill-digested," needs only the substitution 
of one word — well for ill — to make it thoroughly true. 

The three best digesters are, sound health, a good table, and 
pleasant conversation • but the greatest of these is conversation, for 
it can divert the mind, even when the health and food are both unsat- 
isfactory. In the charming biography of Charlotte Bronte by Mrs_ 
Gaskell, we are told that the father of the accomplished authoress, 
on account of a weakness of digestion was accustomed to take his 
meals by himself, apart from the rest of the family. If that had been 
his habit long it is no wonder that he was often compelled to giv^e 
vent to his attacks of hypochondriasis by firing pistols out of the 



THE INNER ]V[^ISI 95 

back door. The frequency with which food should be taken depends 
on various conditions. It varies with diiferent races, and in differ, 
ent climates ; and according^ to the amount of labor done and the 
quality of the food. This, as well as other questions of diet, must 
be answered by experience. The custom of taking three meals daily, 
which is so generally observed in the United States, is, on the whole, 
a wise one, since it has taken its origin in accumulated experience of 
many years. 

It is not well, however, to observe this custom too arbitrarily, for 
a fourth meal is often a positive advantage, even in our climate, 
where less food is required than in Northern Europe. The Germans 
eat four and five times daily, and in England very many take four 
meals as regularly as we take three, the fourth consisting of a light 
supper, of thin slices of bread and butter and a cup of tea, and among 
the country people of substantial pastry and meat. This fourth meal 
is taken between nine and ten o'clock. Since among the middle and 
upper classes of England, the late dinner which begins at seven or 
eight, is prolonged to nine o'clock, the supper and dinner come very 
closely together. In the United States a fourth meal is taken much 
more frequently than is believed, both in city and country ; but unfortu- 
nately the materials of our evening entertainments are too often 
unpalatable and indigestible. On the ocean steamers four or five 
meals are the order of the day, and, except by the seasick, are well 
patronized, without discomfort or injury. In rural districts a lunch 
in the middle of the forenoon is of ten-times expected, and in the hay- 
ing season milk is drunk instead of water. Our customs are not so 
utterly different from those of Europe as might be thought. While 
the English eat so largeh% the French, who are separated by only a 
narrow channel, are very moderate at the table, and do not take more 
than two full meals daily. In the morning, on rising, a cup of coffee 
with a verj' little piece of bread lasts them until eleven o'clock, when 
they take breakfast, and at six o'clock comes their well-cooked and 
delicately served, but not over-abundant dinner. The custom of 
having regular hours for meals is peculiar to civilization. It is only 
possible where food is tolerably abundant and accessible, and is most 
necessary among those who are most sensitive, delicate and nervous. 
The savage can go for days without anything to eat, and then can, 
without injury, gorge himself like a boa-constrictor. The old High- 
landers originally had but one meal, and afterwards two meals daily. 
In England, several centuries ago, among the " great families," 
there were four meals daily : breakfast at seven, dinner at ten, sup- 

Ghiradelli's Breakfast Cocoa. The Best 



96 THE INNKR Js^IAN 

per at four, and " livery," corresponding to modern "tea," at eiglit 
or nine o'clock. They sat at dinner three hours, from ten till one in 
the afternoon. In Thibet there are no regular meals. The family 
never assemble, but " eat when they are hungry, drink when they 
are dr3^" L,ike the North American Indians they eat out of a hw^e 
pot in which the meal is boiled, and each one snatching what he 
wants. The Kisawahili has no words to express breakfast, dinner 
and supper. Savages seem to care much less for the gratification of 
the taste of food than for the appeasing of the hunger. With them 
the pleasure of eating is of negative rather than a positive kind ; 
hence they eat rapidly, voraciously, in order to fill up the stomach as 
soon as possible. The relics of this habit can be seen readily enough 
in any cheap eating-house in New York. Hating for the refined 
gratification of the taste, per se, is peculiar to high culture. The 
civilized man who undertakes to imitate the savage in these alterna- 
tions of fasting and feasting, would soon bring his wretched exis- 
tence to an end ; for no fact of hygiene is better recognized than that 
after very long abstinence, food musi be taken slowly and in small 
quayitiiies. The longer and the harder we have worked on an empt}- 
stomach, the greater the necessity of caution at the next meal. Just 
as it is possible for the brain to get so tired that we cannot sleep, just 
so is it possible for the stomach to get so tired that it cannot digest. 
The ancient Romans had but two meals daily, dinner and supper. 
The dinner or eprandmm, was taken in a standing position, at nine 
o'clock, and usually consisted of the remnants of the supper of the 
previous day. The supper or ccena, the great meal of the day, was 
taken about three or four o'clock in the afternoon. This consisted of 
three parts : a gtistus to sharpen the appetite, as raw oysters on the 
shell are used in our day ; the caput coence made of a variety of courses, 
and the mensa secunda, or dessert, consisting of pastry and fruits. 
On the.se dinners enormous and fabulous siims were expended. 
Heliogabalus spent $20,000 for a single dish. CEHus Versus wasted 
$250,000 for a single entertainment to which only twelve guests were 
invited, or over $20,000 for each person. It is stated that Sitellions 
spent over $16,000 daily for his supper. The dinner became gradu- 
ally later and late<»in the day, and thus the morning meal or break- 
fast was introduced. King Canute, it is said, first established the 
custom of four meals daily. The oft-asked question whether it is 
better to dine in the middle ot the day or in the evening, must be 
answered by the occupation and circumstances of the person. It is 
of all importance that the principal meal of the day should be taken 



THE INNER rvIAN 97 

leisurely and without harassment ; and if the hour of leisure that is 
required for a comfortable dinner cannot be found in the middle of 
the day, it is better to wait until later. In this respect the present 
customs are just about what they should be. Business men in the 
large cities dine at five or six o'clock, for the two-fold reason that 
the middle of the day is the busiest hour, and that most of them are 
so far from home that they must take their meals in restaurants. In 
the olden time when business was carried on quietly and on a small 
scale, and merchants lived over their stores, it was easy and natural 
to dine at twelve o'clock ; but under the new dispensation, the cus- 
tom has been necessarily abandoned. In the country where toil is 
easier and calmer, where even in the haying season a good round 
hour is allowed for ' ' nooning, ' ' and where they rise so early that 
twelve o'clock is about as late as four or five is for the residents of 
the city ; where they go to bed with the chickens, and where, further- 
more, there is comparatively little to harass the mind, in the morning 
at noonday, or at night, it would be absurd, and, to many, injurious 
to postpone the principal meal much beyond midday. There are 
very few civilized beings that can go from morning to night without 
anything to eat and not suffer. Such prolonged fasting is the pre- 
rogative of savages. There can be found now and then a business or 
professional man in whose arteries the blood of his pagan ancestors 
is so little diluted that he only feels hungry twice a day, and there 
are others who abstain from midday lunches because they believe it 
to be a virtue to go without eating. For the majority of Americans 
this mistake is a most fearful one, and has caused innumerable woes. 
Dyspepsia in all its phases, nervous diseases of all kinds, and death 
itself are the rewards that nature is continually bestowing upon those 
who refuse her bounties. Abstinence from regular meals in health is 
a vice in which only professed gluttons should indulge ; but if one 
must lose a meal, let it be the last one of the daj^ and not the break- 
fast or lunch. It is not always necessary that the lunches should be 
liberal or varied ; for many a few mouthfuls suflSce — or, at least, stay 
the stomach till evening. But, as a rule, it is well for those who 
dine late in the day to take a substantial lunch in which meat, cold 
or warm, or fish of some kind or nourishing soup, as well as bread 
and butter, shall be represented. The danger of spoiling the appe- 
tite is infinitely less than the danger of so weakening the stomach by 
long abstinence that a good dinner cannot be well assimilated. It is 
far better to over-eat at lunch than not to eat at all. 

I. M. 7 



A Napa Soda Lemonade is a Luxury 



ys THE INNER MAN 

CLABROUGH, GOLCHER & CO.— We are largely indebted 
for the good things of life to the rod of the angler, and the rifle and 
gun of the hunter. Clabrough, Golcher and Co.'s store, situated 
at No. 605 Market St., is a magazine of all the implements used on 
stream or hillside, forest or plain. From the branch house m 
Birmingham where John Clabrough, a member of the firm, resides, 
they receive an excellent class of shotguns, manufactured there, 
which have met with the approval of the most expert hunters on the 
Pacific Coast, and whose popularity has been steadily on the 
increase. 

Guns by the celebrated gunmakers of Europe of every variety 
are found in their store, which presents the largest and most com- 
plete assortment of sporting tools in San Francisco. They are the 
agents of W. J. Cummings, of Auckland, who.se fishing tackle has 
obtained a world-wide celebrity, second to none of the British 
manufacturers of angling material. They are also the agents of the 
blue rock pigeons and traps, the most popular inanimate targets 
among those who pride themselves upon their skill in pigeon 
shooting. 

Everything that the lawn tennis pla3^er needs in the pursuit of 
his pastime is found here by the best makers, and therefore of the 
1)est, and most lasting quality. The Golcher hunting boot, which 
has been recentl}' introduced into the market, is an ingenious com- 
bination of stout moccasin of untanned leather, with comfortable 
fitting uppers, lacing close to the ankle and affording a sturdy 
support. 

There is nothing in the way of rifle, gun, pistol, rod, hunting 
knives, ammunition — all that those who enjoy the life by flood and 
field ma}' desire that is not found at " Golchers','' as the sportsmen 
designate their favorite headquarters. The Messrs. Golcher are 
themselves keen and skillful at the hunt and angle, and a specialty 
of their place is that when one wants to go a fishing, they can tell 
him when to go, in what quarter he has the best prospects, and 
advise him on his outfit, giving him just what he needs, and no 
more, nor permitting him to load down with useless tackle. So in 
the hunting season, they keep informed, as in angling, upon those 
districts where a good bag may be made, what lands are preserved, 
and when the shooting is open to all comers. In fine Golchers', in 
addition to being the repository for all the sportsman needs, is a 
bureau of information as to where he may enjo}'^ the pastime of his 
selection. 



THE INNER 1VIA.N 99 

Within the last ten years it has grown to be the leading guii- 
store of the city. The relations between the Golchers' and their 
customers have always been of the most agreeable nature. It has 
often been said that none but those who are jeally and honestly 
fond of sport themselves can hope to succeed in keeping an 
emporium of sportsmen's materials. This is one of the secrets of 
the prosperity of this firm. They are thoroughly e.nrapport with 
hunter and angler, and the stranger in the city who is anxious to 
indulge his outdoor tastes is courteously directed where to go and 
what to take with him, having also the assurance that he is 
furnished with nothing but the best for his pursuit of fin, fur or 
feather. 

"COATES.' " — A cosy resort, suggestive of the old English 
inn, is "Coates,' " as it is generally known, its proprietor being 
Caleb Coates, a pioneer in the saloon business in this city. This 
comfortable and unique place is at 37 Sutter street, a few doors below 
Montgomery street. Here one can get an excellent pewter of ale or 
half and half served in British fashion, and, moreover, excellent 
whiskies, imported and American, fine brandies and the best brands 
of wine. The snug sitting-room is hung with quaint pictures, and in 
the winter months a generous fire welcomes the chilly guest. At 
noon a verj^ bounteous lunch is served, and at all times there is 
something good to pick at on the table. It is an old time place, 
much frequented by old country men, nor are the native populations 
by any means unmindful of its comforts and its merits. 

JOHN H. McMENOMY.— One of the enjoyments of the tour- 
ist in San Francisco is a stroll through the California Market. Here 
is an epitome of the productions of the State — fruits, vegetables. 
poultry and meats. The curious stranger, wandering among the 
attractive display, will pause at the stalls 8 and 9, where John H. 
McMenomy, one of the pioneer butchers of the city, shows what we 
can do in the line of meat supplies. The true believer in the comforts 
of the inner man is not he whose observation is confined to the good 
things of life as they appear on the table only. The genuine gour- 
met will scrutinize the raw material, and form his judgment of the 
probable results of the cook's art by the appearance it presents in the 
butcher's stall. His eye will be pleased indeed by the array of 
meats which is marshalled on the hooks of Mr. McMenomy's stalls. 



• Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



100 THK INNER JvlAN 

Here are beeves, stall fed, fat and luscious, which suggest juicy and 
tender steaks and the incomparable roasts. 

Those who boast of the superior meats of the old country — the 
beef and mutton — will find their taitli shaken in this popular delu- 
sion when they gaze upon this stall life picture. There is nothing 
but the primest meats here, and that means a good deal in Califor- 
nia. San Franciscans are nearly all epicures. They will not buy 
an inferior article. The result is that Mr. McMenomy commands the 
best family trade in the city, and his supplies fully justify the 
demand. He keeps, in a word, only the primest of the prime. 

THE LICK HOUSE.— It may be truthfully said that the Lick 
House is a household word in the history of San Francisco. Midst 
the growth of hotels and fashionable boarding-houses in all portions 
of the city, the " Lick " on Montgomery street, near Sutter, has ever 
kept the even tenor of its way, uniformly prosperous and unaffected 
by change, Mr. Kendrick B. Soule, for thirteen years cashier of the 
Lick House, recently assumed the management of the hotel, and has 
devoted himself to the improvement of the restaurant department. 
The initial effort was the establishment of a perfect kitchen, that labor, 
atory from which the elixirs to revive the inner man are to proceed. 
The result is in every way satisfactory — the Lick House kitchen is the 
ne phis ultra of kitchens, a kitchen with which the most hypercritical 
chef could find no fault. The great range, which runs from one end 
of the apartment to the other, is provided with all the modern facilities 
for cooking. It is bounded, as it were, with two commodious boilers 
on one side, and on the other with a gas boiler for eggs, toast, etc. A 
long counter fitted with a series of tanks filled with steam-heated water 
upon which covered trays rest, is used to keep the meats warm after 
cutting, so the guest may never have to complain of the temperature 
of his food. The last device for the preparation of hot cakes, waffles, 
and delicacies of a like nature, steam supplied, stands apart from the 
main range, and large kettles for stock and boiled meats are also 
separate from the most important portion of the kitchen outfit, so 
the chef has abundance of room for the prosecution of his good work. 
The tea and coffee urns and plate warmers are steam-heated by the 
latest and best mechanisms for this purpose. It is needless to say 
that the utensils are in keeping with the absolutely perfect kitchen, 
and that the refrigerating apparatus is all that can be desired. 

The magnificent dining-room of the Lick House is the most 
artistic in the State. Mirrors, panels, floor and ceiling through which 



THE INNKR MAN 101 

the soft, mellow light falls from above, have been visited and admired 
for years. Now, with the present facilities, it is proposed to make 
the restaurant second to none in this city of restaurants. Meals are 
served a la carte, and the charges are most reasonable. It must 
not be assumed that because the dining hall is fit for a palace, the 
kitchen (which, by the way, is so admirably ventilated as to be free 
from food vapors) a faultless department, and the cooks persons of 
acknowledged skill, that a guest must necessarily wear a dress coat, 
or have a plethoric purse, to avail himself of the hospitality of the 
restaurant. By no means. It is carried on in a purely cosmopolitan 
spirit, and while the cooking, supplies, and service are of the best, 
one may dine at any figure he chooses, bring his friends in any num- 
ber for a fete or an anniversary, or enjoy his meal with no society 
but his newspaper. In a word, the advantages of the L,ick House 
restaurant are good food, well prepared, artistic surroundings, prompt 
and courteous service, and very moderate charges. 



Napa Soda Water Cures Dyspepsia 



CHAPTER XIII 



CHAMPAGNE LYRICS 



The folloTving poetry of Champagne has prevailed in Ay and 
Epernay since the days of St. Evremond: 



Oh, the wild-fire wine of France, 
Quick with fantasies florescent, 
Rapturously effervescent, 

How its atoms leap and dance ! 

Floric fount of love and laughter, 
Where its emanations rise, 
All the difficulty dies, 

From now and then hereafter. 

Through the happy gold-n haze 
Time's gray cheek is bright with 

dimples, 
And his laugh more lightly wimples 

Thau the sea's on summer days. 

Tongue and throat it makes to tingle, 
Beats the blood from heart to vein^ 
And ascending to the brain, 

Bids the spirit forth and mingle 



With a world no longer grim, 

But serene and sweet and spacious, 
Where the girls are fair and gracious, 

And the Cupids light of limb. 

Soul and sense are all untethered 
Who would an angel when 
Clement king of gods and men 

He can soar so grandly feathered 

Willi thy plumage, oh Champague? 

r.otlled gladness, thou magician ! 

Silver beaded ! mist EI3 siau ! 
Ecstasy of sun and rain ! 

Swift and subtle, glad and glorious, 
Oh, the wild-fire wiue of France ! 
How its atoms frisk and dance! 

Over fate and time victorious. 



Less for thy grace and glory, land of ours, 

Than for thy dolour, dear, 

Let the grief go, and here — 
Here's to thy skies, thy women and thy flowers, 

France, take the toast thy women and thy roses, 

France, to thy wine, more wealth unto thy storts, 
And let the lips a grievous memory closes 

Smile, their proud smile once more. 

Swarthy Falernians, Massica the Red, 

Were ye the nectars poured 

If the great gods' broad board. 
No poor old wines, all but in name long dead. 



102 



THE INNER IVlAN 103 

Nectar's Champagne — the sparkling soul of mirth, 

That bubbling o'er with laughing gas, 

Flashes gay sunbeams in the glass, 
And like our flag goes proudly round the earth. 

" I am the blood Bureuudian sunshine makes 

A fine old feudal knight, 

Of buff and boisterous might, , 

Whose casque feels — ah, so heavy when one wakes." 

" And I, the dainty Bordeaux, violets ! 

Perfume, and whose rare rubies gourmets prize, 

My subtle savour gets, 
In partridge wings its daintiest allies." 

Ah, potent chiefs, Bordeaux and Burgundy, 

If we must answer make, 

This sober counsel take : 
Mes seigneurs, sing your worth less haughtily, 

For 'tis Champagne, the sparkling soul of mirth, 

That, bubbling o'er with laughing gas, 

Flashes gay sunbeams in the glass, 
And like our flag goes proudly round the earth. 

Ay, 'tis true, the typic wine ol France, 

Ay, 'tis our heart that sparkles in our eyes, 
And higher beats for every dire mischance, 

It was the wit that made our fathers wise. 

That made their valour gallant, gay. 

When plumes were stirred by winds of waving swords, 

And chivalry's defiance spoke the words : 
" A vous. Messieurs les Anglais, les premiers." 

Let the dull beer apostle till he 's hoarse 

Sent his small spleen and spite — 

Fate fill bis sleepless night 
With nightmares of invincible remorse ! 

We sing Champagne, the sparkling soul of mirth 

That bubbling o'er with laughing gas. 

Flashes gay sunbeams in the glass, 
And like our flag goes proudly round the earth. 



Indigestion Dies w^here Napa Soda Lives 



^^ THE INNER NIA.N 

No, such blockheads do not sip 
Of that most delicious wine ; 

Soul of Love and fellowship, 
Sweet as truly 'tis benign. 

No, their palate, spoilt and worn, 
Craves adult'rate juice to drain 

Poison raw which we should scorn, 
Beverage fit for frantic brain. 

Let us therefore hold as fools, 
Such as now feign to despise 

Those balsatnic molecules 

Horace used to sing and prize. 

No, such blockheads do not sip 
Of that most delicious wine, 

Soul of love and fellowship 
Sweet as truly 'tis benign. 

Of that wine so purely white, 

Which the sternest mood makes past 

And which sparkles yet more bright 
In your eyes than in my glass. 

Drink, then, drink, I pledge you, dear, 
In the nectar old we prize ; 

Sparkling in our glasses clear, 

But more brightly in your eyes. 



Come, little page, serve us aright, 

The crown is often heavy to bear; 

So fill up my goblet, large and light 

Whenever you find a vacancy there. 

This wine is surely no Christian weight. 

And yet you never complaint will hear 
That it's not baptised with water clear. 

Down my throat I pour 

The old Arbois ; 

And now, my lords, let us our voices raise 
And sing of Silenus and Bacchus the praise. 



irH.H> INNER MAN i05 

Chloris and Egle with their snowy hands, 

Pour out a wine of Ay, whose prisoned foam 

Tightly compressed within its crystal home, 
Drives out the cork, 'mid laughter's joyous sound 
It flies against the ceiling to rebound, 

The sparkling foam of this refreshing wine 

The brilliant image of us French does shine. 



I<tft to the skies thy foaming wine 

That cheers the heart, that charms the eye, 
Exalts its fragrance, gift divine. 

Champagne, from thee the wise must fly. 

A poison lurks those charms below, 
An asp beneath the flowers is hid ; 

In vain thy sparkling fountains flow. 

When wisdom has their lymph forbid. 

'Tis but when cloyed with purer fair, 
"We can with such a traitress flirt ; 

So following Beaune with reverent air, 
Let Reims appear but at dessert. 



When on the fruit piled board, 
Thy cup with nectar stored, 

Commence their genial reign, 
The wisest, sternest faces 
Of mirth display the traces, 

And to rejoice are fain. 
As laughter's silv'ry ripple 
Greet every glass we tipple. 

Away fly grief and pain. 



'Tis not on the icy-topped mountains of Thrace, 
Or those of Rhodope, thy favors I trace. 

Not there to invoke thee I'd roam. 
No ! Reims sees thee reign sovereign lords o'er her hills, 
There I offer my vows and the nectar thrills, 

To my soul I will seek close at home. 

Whether Venus-like rising midst foam sparkling white, 
Or wrapped in a mantle of rose rich and bright, 

Thou seekest my senses to fire, 
Come aid me to sing, for my Muse is full fain 
To owe on this day each melodious strain 

To the fervor 'tis thine to inspire. 



Ladies Drink Napa Soda for Complexion 



^^ THE INNER XIAM 

Gray time shall pause and smooth his wrinkles, 

Bright garlands round his scythe shall twine; 
While sands from out his glass he sprinkles, 
To fill it up with wine, 
With rosy sparkling wine ! 

Thus hours shall pass which no man reckons, 
'Mongst us who, glad with mirth divine, 

Heed not the shadowy hand that beckons 
Across the sea of wine, 
Of billowy, gushing wine ! 

And though 'tis true, they cross in pain. 

Who sober cross the Stygian ferry. 
Yet only make our Styx Champagne, 

And we shall cross right merry, 
Floating away on wine ! 

Old Charon's self shall make him mellow, 
Then gaily row his bark from shore ; 

Wliile we and every jolly fellow 
Hear unconcerned the oar 
That dips itself in wine ! 



Morning bright, Wet with new 

Thy pure light Fallen dew 

I rejoice when I see. The rose sparkles less bright, 
The fair dove. Freer from spot 

Whom I love Ermine's not 

So, 'tis rosy like thee. Nor is lily more white. 
She is fair, Fair Dupuis, 

None so rare All agree, 

With a waist matched by none. On ambrosia is fed ; 
By my hand From her lip 

It is spanned When I sip 

And Eyes bright as the sun ; Nectar's perfume is shed. 



Lily on liquid roses floating! 

So floats yon foam o'er pink Champagne 
Fain would I join such pleasant boating. 

And prove that ruby main, 
And float away on wine. 

Those seas are dangerous, gray beards swear, 
Whose sea beach is the goblet's brim ; 

And here it is they drown dull care — 
But what care we for him ? 
So we but float on wine. 



If j-ou've ever seen a party 

Relieved from the presence of Ned, 
How instantly joyous and hearty 

They've grown when the damper was fled. 

You may guess what a gay piece of work, 

What delight to Champagne it must be, 

To get rid of its bore of a cork, 

And come sparkling to you, love, and me. 



Thanks to the bowl Divine Champagne, 

That cheers my soul, All grief and pain 

No care can make me shrink, In thee I gladly sink ; 

The loam divine, All ills agree. 

Of this gray wine Away from thee 

I think. To slink. 

When it I drain. Sweet to the nose, 

Gives to each vein As new blown rose 

A link. Or pink ; 

Source of pure joy With gifts that ease, 

Without alloy. And charms that please. 

Come, dear one, fain I'd drink. Come, dear one, fain I'd drink. 



Despite the tongue of malice. 
No poison in thy chalice 

Was ever found Champagne. 
Simplicity most loyal 
Was ever thy boast most royal ; 

And this th}' wines retain. 
No harm lurks in the fire, 
That helps thee to inspire 

The heart and spur the brain. 



As the vine, although lowly in aspect outlines 
The stateliest trees b}' the produce it bears. 

So midst all earths of rich generous wines. 

Our Reims the bright crown of pre-eminence wears. 

The Massica, erst sang by the Horace of old, 
To Sillery now must abandon the field ; 

Falernian nor Chian could ne'er be so bold 

To rival the nectar Ay's sunn^' slopes yield. 



Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



108 THE INNER NIAN 

As bright as the goblet it sparkling fills, 

With diamonds infusion, it foaming exhales 

An odor ambrosial, the nostril that thrills, 
Foretelling the flavor, delicious, it veils. 

At first with false fury, the foam-bells arise, 

And creamily bubbling spread over the rim, 

Till equally swiftly their petulance dies 

In a purity that makes e'en crystal seem dim. 



1 



ROEDERER CHAMPAGNE.— The house of Louis Roederer, 
originally founded by a German named Schreider, was content to 
pursue the tenor of its way for some years — until it suddenly felt 
prompted to lay siege to the Muscovite connection of La Veuve 
Clicquot-Ponsardin, and secure a market for its wine at Moscow and 
St. Petersburg. It next opened up in the United States, and finally 
introduced its brand in England. The house possesses cellars in 
various parts of Rhiems, and has its offices in one of the oldest quar- 
ters of the city — namely, the Rue des Elus, or ancient Rue des Juifs, 
where the old S5magogue formerh' stood, and the records of which 
date as far back as 1103. At the corner of this street and abutting 
on the Place des Marcher, is a curious old house, the overhanging 
upper stories of which are supported by huge, massive carved buckets, 
decorated by figures more or less quaint in design. M. Louis 
Roederer's offices in the Rue des Elus are at the farther end of a court- 
yard, beyond which is found a second court, where carts laden with 
cases of champagne seem to indicate that some portion of the ship- 
ping business of the house is here carried on. One of M. Louis 
Roederer's establishments in the Boulevard du Temple, is distin- 
guished by a rather imposing facade, and has a carved head of 
Bacchus surmounting '\\.s portc-Cochirc, while the principal establish- 
ment, a picturesque range of buildings of considerable extent, is 
situated in the neighboring Rue de la Justice. Leading from the 
Rue de Elus into the Rue de Vesle is a gloomy-looking ancient 
street known as the Rue des Beaux Anges, all the houses of which 
have their windows secured by iron gratings, and their massive doors 
thickly sttidded with huge nails. These prison-like facades which 



THE INNER NIAN 109 

in all probability refer to the epoch of the religious wars, succeed 
each other in lugubrious monotony along either side of the way ; 
but gain admittance to their inner couits, and quite a difierent scene 
presents itself. In one notable instance, looking to a pleasant little 
flower-garden is a small but charming renaissance house, with its 
windows ornamented with elaborate mouldings, and surrounded by 
graceful sculptured heads, while at one corner they rose up a tower 
with a sun-dial displayed on its front. In this and an adjoining 
house the canons of the cathedral were accustomed to reside in the 
days when something like four-fifths of the city was in possession 
of the Church. 

Roederer Champagne has long been a popular wine in this 
State. The agents are Macondray & Co. with their office at 427 
Market street. New brands have been introduced here but in all 
the battles of these sparkling wines, Roederer has ever held its own. 
This is owing to the intrinsic merit of the champagne, its purity, 
sparkle, and delightful bouquet. It is a wine so highly esteemed by. 
epicures that no first-class hotel or restaurant can afford to be with- 
out it. Tastes may vary in other particulars but Roederer will 
always remain a prime and cherished favorite. 



Do you Drink ? Then Napa Soda is your Tipple 



CHAPTER XIV 

An Attack iton the Waiters of thk Old Inn — The Anciknts Indignant 

AT THEIR Reception 



PUBLICATION, since defunct, called 
" Mirth," in its issue for January, 1878, 
contained a sketch by Mr. Godfrey Turner, 
which at that time was much appreciated by 
the frequenters of the "Cheshire Cheese. "^ 
It was a thinly disguised attack upon the 
waiters, as it would seem; but as so much has 
been said in their praise, it is only fair that 
Mr. Turner's criticism should lind a place in a record of this kind. 




A Little Lunch in 
Great Grub Street. 

Scene I. — Round the Corner. Persons, Micio and .^schinus. 

Micio — Well, my boy ! Back again in London, eh ? Worse 
places than the great Metropolis, eh, you rogue, eh? Laudabunt 
alii cJaram Lutetiam. Give me London, that is, for a permanency. 

Aischiyuis — Yes, after all, one can make oneself tolerably com- 
fortable in London for a longer spell than in any other city. We 
may sometimes wish ourselves away, but we soon begin to wish our- 
selves back again. 

Micio — Well said, my boy. And we come back again too, don't 
we ? 

yEschinus — Certainly, sir. 

Micio — You may, I think, dine almost as well in London as in 
Paris, that is, if you know the right places to go to. 

/Eschiniis — Ye — es, perhaps you may. But there are not quite 
so many to choose from, are there, sir ? 

Micio — Why no, my boy; I grant you that. But you can't dine 
in all the good places at once, wherever you may be. So after all, 
112 



THE INNER JvIAN 113 

you see, it matters not whether your selection is from five good 
taverns or fifty. Indeed, I think the fewer good taverns you have 
to choose from, the better is your chance of finding out the one you 
would like to stick to. 

^schiynis — Undoubtedly, sir. 

Micio — You will have observed that I use the word " taverns," 
and I hope you will forgive my not calling them " restaurants, "good 
word though that may be, when it is at home. Our old taverns are 
scarce; and as to the inns, where is the one in which a gentleman 
could think of taking his ease, or looking for his warmest welcome? 

^schinus — We have our club, you know, sir; and some of the 
big hotels are not bad, 

Micio — Well, well, you are right. I am an old fogey, sir; but 
I can fall in with the changed customs of the present day. Still I. 
like old-fashioned comfort, and so, I think, do many of the 
youngsters. 

^schimis — I can answer for one, sir. 

Micio — I believe you, lad; and I think there is no harm for you 
or for me in liking a good old tavern. I could almost say with 
Walter de Mapes, Mihi est propositum in taberna itiori. This was 
once a famous street for taverns, the haunts of literary men whose 
names are now historical. Indeed, if I am not misinformed, it 
bears somewhat of the same character yet. Is not that famous chop- 
house, the Sawdust Box, here about? 

Alschiniis — We are very near it. 

Micio — I thought so. It is the best in my experience of such 
places. Every thing there is honestly good. I have known the old 
Sawdust Box forty j^ears and upward. A plump, round-faced, fresh- 
colored, jolly, civil little man, named — well, never mind his name; 
I forget it though I remember his face — used to keep the Sawdust 
Box in my day. Yes, I remember him as if it was yesterda}-. He 
had a bland propitiatory manner, and would go softly from table to 
table, rubbing his hands, and saying he hoped you had what you 
liked. 

^schinus — Something like wishing you might get it, was not 
that, sir ? 

Micio — Ha, ha ! very good, my boy. But you did get it, sir, 
you did get it, and I dare say you get it, just the same to this day. 
Why, here's the very house ! Not a bit changed, I declare. Same 
quaint old look; same heavy old-fashioned windows; same swing 
door. Same interior too, I've no doubt. Bless me ! Do you know 

I. M. S ^^^^^^ 

Ghiradelli's Breakfast Cocoa. The Best 



1^4 THE; INNER NIAN 

that great Dr. Walker, and the famous talker, Jawker, with their 
illustrious but taciturn friend, Hawker, and many other celebrated 
wits, frequented this house about a hundred years ago ? Il is a 
landmark of his day, a memorial of our splendid literature, my boy. 
Do you feel disposed for lunch ? 

^schinus — By all means, sir, 

Micio — Good ! then in we go. 

Scene II. — The Bar of the old Sawdust Box; a noisy crowd 
drinking thereat. 

Waiter (pushing through the blockade at the door of a room 
in which other people are eating) — By your leave, gentlemen. 

Cockeramstike ! ( The last word is bawled by a waiter up a 
narrow three-cornered wooden staircase, on the bare boards of which 
is a greasy litter of plates, mutton bones, and scraps of meat and 
potato, artfully laid to entrap the careless footfall. 

Short Man — (who is having a long drink.) That's my opinion, 
I say. Of course I may be wrong. 

Lo7ig Ma7i (who appears to have many short drinks and is 
taking another) — You're as wrong as a trivet upside down. 

Waiter — By your leave gentlemen. 

Cook — A sing moot, and two followers down together. 

Sto2it Ma?i (with Big Bag) — Have you heard the story about the 
elephant and the one-eyed wombat? Yes? Ah,thenyouhave'nt heard 
the right version, because I'm the only man that knows it, and I'll 
tell it to you. In the first place, perhaps, I ought to explain that 
where the wombats live there is a species of snake, that ain't a 
rattlesnake, but is something of the rattlesnake build, you know, 
without the rattle; and the wombats don't like this snake the least 
bit. Well, when the elephants come down to drink 

Waiter — By your leave, gentlemen. (Shouting from the bottom 
of the staircase to the top of his lungs). Cotherum steak ! 
Botherum-foozlum mash ! (or something quite as intelligible and 
euphonious.) 

Stout Man (with Big Bag) — (Slowly and impressibly) — When 
the elephants come down to drink 

Short Man (to Long Man) — That's what you think about the 
matter, is it ? 

Long Man (to Short Man) — Is it ? Yes ! And if you knew as 
much about both men as I do, you wouldn't need to ask me what I 
do think or what I don't think. 



THE INNER NIAN 115 

Stotit Man (with Big Bag) — When the elephants 

Short Man — Then you're wrong. 

Lojig Man — What ? 

Short Man — I say you're wrong. Do you suppose I don't know 
what I'm talking about ? I tell you he wouldn't have it at any 
price. And what's more, the other man couldn't come to the other 
man's terms. I mean the other man couldn't. That is, unless the 
other man could get some other man to say 

Stout Man (with Big Bagj — When 

Long Mafi — My boy, you've got on the wrong side of the 
business entirely. Now just attend to me for a few minutes. I 
assure you, as true as we are both standing here at this minute 

Stout Man (with Big Bag) — When the elephants come down to 
drink 

Short Man — I shall go up to smoke. 

Long Man — So shall I. 

Short Man ascends the greasy triangular staircase. Long Man 
follows, and knocks down a pile of plates. Great excitement, in the 
midst of which 

[Enter Micio and -^schinus.] 

Micio — Bless my heart ! This is very diflferent from the quiet 
old chop house as I remember it. 

^schinus — Ha ! Perhaps, sir, you are resting on rather a long 
memory. 

Stout Man (with Big Bag) — When the elephants come down to 
drink, the wombats clear out; and one jolly, cunning old wombat, 
being one-eyed, and in mortal dread of snakes 

Waiter — By your leave, gentleman ! Two goes of rack and a 
four of Scotch, miss. 

Stout Man (with Big Bag) — And in mortal dread of snakes 

Waiter — Fotherum-coozlum, botherum steak, chop and kidney 
down together ! 

Micio — Will you kindly allow us to pass, sir ? 
Wit of the Period — Pass two to front row of dress circle. Take 
a programme, gentleman ? 

Charles (his friend) — Shut up, you fool ! You'll have Chalker 
down on you again presently. 

Stout Man (with Big Bag) — The one-eyed wombat being in 

mortal dread of snakes 

Wit — You mean steaks. 



A Napa Soda I/emonade is a Luxury 



116 TMK INNER MAN 

Scene III. — Inside Room. People Feedings 
[Enter Micio and ^schinus.] 

Micio — Here are two vacant seats. 

^schinus — They'll do. 

Micio — Waiter ! 

O/^/'^w.^r (at another table) — Waiter! Come here! I didn't 
ask for a sausage with my chop. 

Waiter — Not ask for a sausage ! Why, I took the order 
myself. 

Customer — I know you did, but you took it inattentively. 
Take this sausage away; and I've a great mind to send the chop 
after it. Here's a thing to call a chop ! (turns it over). 

Waiter — What's the matter with it? 

Customer — Everything. It's as thin as the ghost of a thread 
paper split; its burnt to a cinder on one side, and it has scarcely felt 
the heat of the coals on the other. These potatoes are quite cold, 
too. 

Waiter — That's not my fault, is it? What's the good of 
blowing me up about the potatoes ? Everybody says the potatoes 
is cold. 

Second Ctistomer — Waiter ! Really this is too bad. I've been 
here exactly three-quarters of an hour, and now you bring me a 
steak that is positively raw. 

Waiter — Not done enough, sir? 

Second Customer — Done enough ? Confound it ! I say its not 
begun. 

Third Customer — Here, waiter, look at this steak. Its nearly 
all fat and grisle; and the small portion of lean is so hard that I 
can't get my teeth into it. 

Waiter — We don't have no complaints from other people. 

Micio — Waiter, I say. (To .^^schinus.) This is not the kind 
of a thing I remember here. I must beg you to attend to your 
duties and order us two mutton chops, with potatoes, as soon as 
possible. 

Waiter — Two steaks and mashed potatoes did you say ? 

Micio — I did not. 

Waiter — Two chops was it then ? 

Micio — That is what I said, and that is what you know I said. 
Be so good qs to go and see about them directly. 

[Exit Waiter, rather taken down for once.] 



THE INXER NIAM 



117 



Micio — That is a remarkably bad servant. If I were to see his 
master I would complain of his gross inattention and incivility. 

^schimis—To tell you the truth, sir, I do not believe there 
would be much use in doing so. The servants are masters here. 

Mia'o — This is a bad beginning, I confess. Bat never mind. 
We will make ourselves as comfortable as possible in the circum- 
stances. Suppose we have a salad. I don't suppose it will be so 
artfully compounded as at your favorite resort on the Boulevard des 
Italiens. Still we will take it at its best. Waiter, a salad. 

Waiter — Anything to drink ? 

J/zVw— Certainly. (To ^schinus). What shall it be ? 

^Sschinus — Really I don't mind what; the wine of the country 
I suppose — British malt. Bring me some ale. What will you take, 
sir? 

Micio — I'll have ale as well. 

Waiter — Two pints o' bitter. And a salad, \ think you said, 
gentlemen ? 

^schinus — Yes. 

[Exit Waiter.] 

Micio — I hope he will rub the bowl with garlic, it is the key- 
stone of cookery. Horace must have been clumsily overdozed with 
the ingredient when he had that flung at it in the Third Epode, 
addressed to Moecenas, It was a salad of some sort the commenta- 
tors think that contained the criminal flavoring of which the little 
man complained. Probably 'twas moretum, which the Romans 
made with cheese, oil, milk and wine; though that was rather a 
plebian dish among them. 

[Enter Waiter, with salad and beer which he sets on^ the table 
before ^Eschinus and Micio.] 

yEschimts — That is not ale; it is porter or stout. 

Waiter — Didn't you say stout? 

yEschi?ms — No, but I'll keep this; it is very good. 

Micio — Mine is not ale, but, as you say, it tastes well, so I'll 
not have it changed. I am glad the salad has come before the 
chops, as it seems we are to mix it ourselves. What is this? Why 
the lettuce is quite wet. There is positively a great quantity of 
water at the bottom of the bowl. 

Waiter — I'll pour it away if you like. 

Micio — But how came it there ? 



Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate,. The Best 



118 THE IMXKR MAN 

^schimis — Pardon me, sir, you forget — do you not ? — that you 
are in England, where the lettuce is understood to be an aquatic herb, 
and is usually treated by prolonged immersion in a tub of water. 
The waiter is not responsible for a national idios5-ncrac3\ 

Micio — True. How long do you think these plants have been 
in soak, waiter ? 

Waiter — Don't know I'm sure, sir. They was took in yester- 
day, and I suppose they've been in water ever since. That's how 
Ave kecp;^ 'em fresh. First we cuts the roots off and stripes away 
the houter leaves, and then we puts 'eih in a tub till they're wanted. 

MicLO — A very pretty plan, indeed. I regret to have interfered 
with it. Perhaps you had better take this verdure back to its 
diluted mud-bath, it is not wanted at present. 

Waiter — Didn't you hask for a salad, sir? 

Micio — Yes, that is what we asked for certainly, but you brought 
us a rough collection of ill-grown vegetables tumbled into a bowl 
with half-a-pint of dirty water. 

^schimis — Is it not almost time that our chops were ready ? 

Micio — There has been time since we ordered them to broil 
twice over. I am patient whenever cooking is concerned, and 
would always rather wait for my dinner than my dinner should be 
put to the grievous injury of waiting for me. But half an hour is 
twice enough in all conscience for a simple grill. 

yEschinus — You have not been a frequent visitor of late at this 
fine old crusted bin of illustrious traditions, have you, sir? 

Micio — No, my boy, no; I never was more disappointed in 
my life; But let us sit it out. From the little I have been able to 
gather since we came in, the liquors are the only good things left in 
the place. 

yEschiyius — That is accurately so. The drinking bar and the 
bad service have ruined the Sawdust Box. I had not the heart to 
spoil your pleasant recollections of a dingy eighteenth century pot- 
house, or I should have moved an amendment to your resolution. 

Waiter — Stewed Cheshire, gentlemen. (He placed toasted 
chee.se before Micio and ^schinus.) 

Micio — But where are the chops ? 

yEschimis — We asked you for chops nearly an hour ago. 

Waiter — I didn't hear you say chops. You said sausage, then 
you wouldn't ha\e it. 

Micio — We will pay, if you please, and go. 

Waiter — Let's see. What have you had? 



THE INNER MAN 



119 



Micio — A lesson. It is not dear at two shillings. There is 
half-a-crown. 

[Exuent Micio and ^schinus.] 

Scene IV.— The Bar. 

Stout Man (with Big Bag) — Wasn't that artful of the wombat ? 
(He laughs for the whole audience noue oi whuni a|>pcaib lo perceive 
the humor of his story.) 

Curtain. 



RATHJEN & CO.— Henry and Martin Rathjen wholesale 
and retail grocers, tea and wine merchants, 60 1 Bush street, comer 
of Stockton, and 633 L,arkin street, corner of Ellis, are gentlemen who 
have had a long and successful experience in this line of business 
so important to the w^elfare of the inner man. To say that they carry 
everything in the first-class grocery line is to give a comprehensive 
idea of their stores. But it is necessary to add that all those things 
are of the best. In the matter of teas and coffees for the use of fam- 
ilies, they exercise great care in procuring the finest qualities of these 
essential articles of household consumption. Their wines are pur- 
chased from the leading houses, and are put up in parcels for families, 
and from the cheapest to the highest grade they are in good condition, 
and faultless as to purity. This rule is observed in every article 
found in the establishment of Rathjen & Co. 



Napa Soda Water Cures Dyspepsia 




CHAPTER XV 

Appetite Hereditary — Prohibited Meats — Scientific Division of Food — 
Opinions of Celebrated Travelers. 



JVERYTHING in the human organization, good or 
bad, is subject to the great law of inheritance, and 
with the reversion and other modifications which are 
a part of the general law, are liable to be transmitted 
from parents to children. By this law we may 
explain the facts of whole nations who eat with relish 
varieties of food that to other nations are so repulsive; the decom- 
posed fii-h and flesh, sour milk, are by so many preferred to these 
articles in a fresh and pure condition. It is more than probable that 
twenty years hence children will love tomatoes as naturally as they 
now love peaches or potatoes. It is hardly probable that man even in 
his lowest state preferred putrid flesh and decomposed, to fresh nutri- 
ment. The theory is more plausible that on account of scarcity or 
negligence, they are often obliged to eat food that had passed into 
decomposition, and that by long use they learned to prefer that 
flavor which was at first disagreeable, and that this taste was trans- 
mitted to posterity. This theory is re-enforced by the fact that it is 
mostly among savage tribes, or the wretchedly poor, that these strange 
tastes are found, and that under increased comforts they have mostly 
disappeared. The preference which the Icelanders and the Irish 
peasantry give for sour milk is accounted for in the same way; for 
such preference, like the preference for high game, is but excep- 
tionally seen among the intelligent and well-favored classes of aii>- 
country. Not only taste, but probably also distaste is hereditary. 
With enlarged resources and refined cookery, enlightened man has 
gradually abandoned articles of food that were once his favorites, and 
has lost his love for them, and it is surely not irrational to infer that 
this dislike has been inherited, so that now we almost tremble at the 
thought of sitting down at the tables of our ancestors. Nearly all 
people reject, even under the pressure of extreme necessity, some 
one or many articles of food at their command, and the causes for 

J2.S 

Indigestion Dies where Napa Soda Lives 



124 THE INNER NIAN 

such rejections are oftentimes strange and unaccountable. Supersti- 
tion and religion have much to do with the rejection of many articles 
of food, especially among certain savage nations. The Kaffir, like 
the Jew, will never eat pork, and he abstains also from fish, and yet 
he seeks the raw flesh of the ox, even the most disgusting portions. 
The Pacific islanders, like many other savages, are prevented by 
their religion from eating many valuable articles of food. One 
worships his God in the shark ; another in the eel ; another in the 
owl, and so on through all animate nature. The East Africans, 
though very fond of animal food, refuse eggs and consider cheese a 
mineral and therefore denounce it. Judaism prohibited pork, as we 
all know, and the religions of India compel vast millions to practice 
absolute or approximate vegetarianism. Even as late as the middle of 
the nineteenth century, we have seen a not inconsiderable number 
of Protestant Christians abstaining from wine for conscience' sake. 
On the festal days of the Roman, and especially of the Greek 
church, flesh of all kinds is prohibited. With the general advance 
of the race, and the evolution of freedom in thought and action, the 
interference of religion with diet has been gradually reduced to a 
minimum. The Llaneros, a pastoral people of South America, 
despise milk and butter, regarding them as only fit for children. In 
the United States we call a rabbit a delicacy, but a negro of the 
West Indies will go a very long time hungrj'- before he will touch it. 
As a general law all varieties of food are best adapted for the climate 
in which they are produced ; but this law is susceptible of very wide 
modifications. That the train oil and blubber of Greenland are better 
adapted for those regions than for the temperate zone ; that there is 
a certain correspondence between the fruits of the tropics and the 
demands of the system in those regions ; that those travelers best 
succeed in preserving health and strength who measurably conform 
to the eating and drinking customs of the countries they visit — all 
these statements are but truisms and need no detailed exhibition of 
authorities to make them acceptible. And yet the history of the 
world and especially since the recent and rapid development of 
modern commerce, shows that civilized man can use with profit and 
pleasure, food gathered from all ends of the earth. It appears not 
to be well to live entirely or mainly on imported food ; and none long 
try the experiment. The inhabitants of the temperate zone are the 
most fortunate in this respect, since they can draw from .e colder 
zone on one hand and tropical on the other ; and probably without 
necessary detriment to health. There is no satisfactory evidence that 



THE) INNER MAN 125 

the fruits and condiments brought to us from the tropics have any 
other than a pleasurable and beneficial effect when used with reason- 
able caution and with a due regard to individual idiosj^ncrasies ; but 
the desire for these subsi s is much less active in the temperate 
zone than in the countries where they are produced. Man seems to 
demand and to bear wider extremes in his food than the lower animals ; 
for we all know that some tropical birds and polar animals die readily 
if great pains be not taken with their nutrition. It follows from that 
the products of the temperate zones should have a wider applicability 
than the products raised only in the tropical or polar regions. The 
inference is confirmed by experience. Potatoes, rice and other 
cereals are valuable food in any climate to which they may be carried. 
Similarly with negative food. The universal stimulants are tea and 
tobacco, and both are products of temperate climates. Kxtremely 
hot and extremely cold climates demand oily and fatt}^ food or other 
carbo-hydrates, though perhaps not in equal quantity. 

Liebig, the father of physiological chemistry, has made a divis- 
ion of food that is as familiar as it is unsound. According to his 
classification the heat producers will least of all be needed in hot 
climates. Experience shows that they supply a want in the deserts 
of Persia and Arabia, of the herdsmen of the Pampas of South 
America who, under a burning sun, feel similar if not equal need of 
oil and fat. No other facts than these are needed to show the difficulty 
and present impossibility of solving the complex problem of diet by 
physiological chemistry. Baker tells us of an Arab sheik, who, 
though " upwards of eighty, as upright as a dart, a perfect Hercules," 
had dail}' consumed through his life two pounds of melted butter. 
Baker further states that " fat is a great desideratum of the Arab," 
not only does he smeai his beard, his clothes and his body with it 
but he eats all he can get. Du Chaillu states that the Bakalai tribe 
of Africa have more disease than the Apingi, and he attributes this 
difference to the fact that the latter tribe consume more palm oil, 
which in the absence of game, constitutes a considerable portion of 
their food. He further states that this tribe are exceedingly fertile 
as compared with other African tribes and rises the query whether 
the immense amount of palm oil they eat may not have something 
to do with it. Dr. Livingstone, speaking of the Kalahara desert, 
says, a considerable proportion of animal diet seems requisite here. 
Independent ot the want of salt we require meat in as large quantities, 
daily as we do in England, and no bad effects in the way of biliousness 
follow the free use of flesh as in other hot climates. A vegetable diet 

Ladies Drink Napa Soda for Complexion 



126 



THE IXKER PvIAN 



causes acidity and heartburn. Burton says that in East Africa meat 
is the diet most prized, and that those who can afford it Hve on fle^h 
almost entirely, considering ' 'fat the essential element of good living. ' ' 
He further states, that although fish are abundant in the rivers, they 
are despised by those who can get flesh. The Persians live on rice 
and oil. In Central and Eastern Arabia, the date is the food of the 
Arab, the staff of his life, and chief commercial product. Mahomet 
knew its value and he commanded : " Honor the date tree for she is 
your mother." The Arab of the Desert of Sahara drinks oil as we 
drink coffee. When it is in abundance he can sustain great fatigue. 
Says Richard.son, " An Arab will live three months on barley meal 
paste dipped in olive oil." It would seem that the different varieties 
of the carbo-hydrates are, to a certain degree, substitutes for each 
other. In India and China the leading carbo-hydrate is rice. In 
Central and Eastern Arabia, the date ; in the Desert of Sahara and 
in Eastern and Western Arabia, Syria and Palestine, palm and olive 
oil, and in nearly all these countries, milk and hone}^ and liquid 
butter, cocoanut and ground nut oil, and fat and lean meats of various 
kinds are used. In East Africa, where the cucumber grows wild, an 
excellent oil is extracted from its .seeds. Various the methods by 
which inhabitants of extremely hot regions satisfy the demand for 
carbo-hydrates. In East Africa the people chew the sugar-cane and 
"sugar attracts them like flies ; they clap their hands with delight 
at the taste ; they buy it for its weight in ivory, and if a thimbleful 
should happen to fall upon the ground they will eat an ounce of earth 
rather than lose a grain of it." The Mussulnias of the desert cook 
their rice in fat. In Chili, balls of grease are sold in the markets, 
and in Egypt nearly everything is cooked swimming in fat, and in 
Madagascar traveling companies say that grease is mixed with all 
their food. In Chili sugar is also much eaten. Hot oil as well as 
hot gravy is taken by the Arabians of the desert, and is given as a 
medicine in certain diseases. Tomson says that the principal food 
of the inhabitants of Syria and Palestine is cheese, figs, olives and 
sour milk and that almost every dish is cooked in oil. In hot 
countries where meat is scarce, or where it is prohibited by religion, 
other substances clas.sed by Eiebig as heating food are used. The 
nutritive power of oils and fats is several times greater than that of 
rice, and therefore, when rice is used without oil or sweets, large 
quantities are required. The Hindoo eats enormous quantities of 
rice and butter eked out sometimes by a little flesh, but at best this 
food is an imperfect substitute for meat or oil, for we are told that the 



THE IN>:ER JvIAK 12^ 

quantity required by those who live mainly on rice is enormous, and 
that the poor Ryots in consequence become " pot bellied " and pre- 
sent an appearance of chronic starvation. On the contrary, the 
Arabs who live on an abundance of flesh of various kinds and oil and 
butter, and some of the tribes of Central Africa whose diet is similar 
though varied by human flesh, as well as the herdsmen of South 
America who rarely need to sufier for want of meat or oil, are, for 
savages, vigorous, active, energetic and courageous. 

Extremely hot regions not only require meat and oily food, but 
enormous quantities of it ; probably not much less in some sections 
than is required in regions of extreme cold. Of the gastronomic 
performances of the Hottentots every one has heard ; Barrow states 
that the}^ are prodigious gluttons. An ox of medium size was dis- 
posed of by ten Hottentots in three days. Probably more food is om 
the average eaten in extremely cold than in extremely hot countries, 
but there is reason for believing that the difference is less than is 
generally supposed. Like the Hottentots, the African cannibals, 
and the Arabs, the Siberians, and Greenlanders appear to be greater 
gluttons than they really are because they are compelled to go 
hungry for many days at a time. It is certain that the Laplanders, 
the Norwegians and Icelanders are not remarkable eaters. The 
traveler, Vambery, says that the Persian pilgrims, whom he met 
on his travels, were gigantic eaters. The effects of extreme heat 
and cold are analogous in other respects. " The drought and 
heat of the Llanos act like cold upon animals and plants." Says 
Humboldt: "In the season of extreme heat boa constrictors and 
crocodiles remain torpid for weeks in the mud." Travelers in 
Africa confirm this , observation. Certain diseases, as leprosy and 
elephantiasis, seem to be common to tropical and polar regions. 
They are found in Iceland and in Africa and Arabia. Ice and 
hot water often have similary curative influence when locally- 
applied for the treatment of disease. There are large numbers of 
people who prefer their flesh and other food when it has passed into 
a state of decomposition or fermentation. In Burmah, the gnepher, 
a huge fish, is eaten sometimes in a semi-putrid or semi-pickled state. 
The herdsmen of South America seem to prefer decomposed meat, 
even when the fresh is abundant on every hand. The inhabitants 
along the Senegal and Orange Rivers prefer decomposed fish to that 
just taken out of the water. Even in Sweden, stock fish steeped in 
a solution of potash until decomposition takes place is for the 
Christian's dinner, what roast beef is to Englishmen. The herds- 



Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



128 THE INMER. IvIAN 

men of Pampas of South America eat decomposed oxen with great 
relish. There are some few among us who prefer old and rancid 
cheese to that which is fresh and newl}'' made. Even in civilization 
the old taste lingers ; traces of barbarism are not yet wholly worn 
out, for even now there are some who prefer their game high. Fer- 
mented liquors are enjoyed by the most enlightened, equally by the 
most degraded ; but fermentation is a species of decomposition. 
Putri faction and fermentation are seen to make some alimentary 
substances more healthful and to remove injurious qualities. The 
juice of the mandioca is at first poisonous until fermentation has 
commenced. Sour milk seems to be less likely to do harm than 
sweet milk, at least it is so believed among certain tribes in Africa ; 
and the world over, there are more who drink sour milk than who 
take it fresh from the cow. Much of the disease of the world is 
caused by the food. Between savagery and civilization through all 
the grades this law applies, and that the scurvy and horrid diseases 
of the skin and general low condition of many of the savage tribes 
are caused by their abominable food, travelers will agree. The 
delusion that all the diseases of humanity are confined to civilization 
is quickly dispelled by a careful reading of books of travel. Scurvy 
is caused by want of fresh vegetables and fruits, and is removed by 
abundance of these articles. The raw meat of the Abyssinians, 
when very freely eaten, causes, it is stated, a kind of insensibility, 
not unlike intoxication. Almost the whole Abyssinian people are 
afflicted with tape-worms ; it is their most prevalent disease and it 
is without question due to the raw meat on which they subsist. The 
natives of Polynesia sometimes eat sharks and gorge themselves to 
such an extent that they vomit. Their flesh is dry and acrid. It is 
thought that the excessive disproportionate use of the date among 
the Arabs is a cause of indigestion. An exclusive fish diet seems 
to cause various disorders. The experience of mankind in the 
selection and combination of food, is to a certain extent explained 
and confirmed by the sciences of organic physiological chemistrj'. 
If man was forced to depend on his knowledge of the relation of 
minute chemistry of food to the human body, he would star^^e before 
he could prepare a single meal ; and after the utmost care and skill 
in which the most advanced science should be brought into requisi- 
tion, he could not tell whether the first mouthful might not instantly 
throw him into fatal convulsions. But after experience has indicated 
to us the food that we need, chemistr>' and physiology come in very 
appropriately to explain, in the most interesting manner, the laws 



THE^ INNER MiAN 129 

and principles thus ascertained and to guide in their application. 
We cook some variety of fish in oil ; others which contain sufficient 
fat, are eaten alone. In our puddings, eggs, milk, suet and butter 
are mingled with rice, and crackers, and bread and tapioca. In our 
salads are mingled oils and eggs with lettuce and chicken. Rice is 
boiled with milk ; cheese is eaten with macaroni and green corn needs 
the addition of salt and butter. Buckwheat cakes are eaten with 
butter, milk, sugar, molasses, honey, gravy and meats. Everywhere 
vegetables are eaten with meats, and butter with bread and crackers 
with cheese. Pork and beans is a union of opposites, as scientific 
as it is popular. A modern dinner, beginning with soup and ending 
with various courses with meats, is in the main consistent with what 
little is known of physiological chemistry. Soup is an excellent 
preparation for more solid food, and raw oysters taken early in the 
meal serve to stimulate rather than deaden the appetite. 

CALIFORNIA CHAMPAGNK— The earliest effort to man- 
ufacture champagne in California is due to the Sansevian Bros., who 
began in 1855 and 1856 in lyos Angeles to experiment with wine from 
the Old Mission grape. Their first bottling, which entered into many 
thousand bottles, was a partial success, considering the idea of per- 
fection which prevailed at that time. In the following year they bottled 
a much larger quantity which proved an utter failure. They were 
reported to have lost $100,000 in these operations. Still this did not 
discourage them and they sent a man named Pierre De Baune, who 
had been their foreman, to the champagne district in France, there 
to study the business. He remained there over a year, studying the 
wines and perfecting himself in the art of champagne making. 
Returning in 1857 he applied his knowledge to the California wines, 
but failed. However in i86t after leaving Sansevian Bros., he had a 
partial success, that is some of the bottles were good and salable, and 
others failed either in sparkle or quality. At this period his wine was 
handled by Crenoline Bros. , who afterwards sold out and returned to 
Europe, leaving Mr. De Baune to pursue the business alone. Mean- 
while Mr. Pierre Sansevian, who had a vineyard in San Jose, continued 
his experiments in champagne making up to 1884, but without any 
success except an occasional small lot which was not duplicated, and 
did not enter into the trade. In 1862 Arpad Haraszthy began experi- 
menting for his father in the Buena Vi.sta ranch in Sonoma County. 
Three small lots were made, comprising a few dozen bottles that 
proved successful. Then a company was incorporated under the 



Do you Drink ? Then Napa Soda is your Tipple 



130 THE INXER IvIAN 

name of the Buena Vista Viticultural Society with a capital stock of 
$600,000. An additional experiment was made for the new associa- 
tion of a few dozen bottles which was very successful. An attempt 
at champagne production on a practical scale w^as made next, and 
about 12,000 bottles were essayed. They were treated in the same 
manner as the previous bottling but proved an entire failure, and 
Mr. Haraszthy broke several dozen corkscrews endeavoring to get the 
wine out of the bottles. After two years' experimenting in which 
there was a considerable loss, Mr. Haraszthy resigned his position to 
continue these experiments on his own account. At this period over- 
tures were made to Mr. De Baune by the society which he accepted. 
His first bottling amounted to nearly 60,000 bottles, and the wine 
sparkled so violently that before they could uncork the bottles over 
60 per cent had broken. In the following spring over 50,000 bottles 
were put up, but these had to be uncorked because they did not 
sparkle at all. In the next lot of 30,000 lots there were not more 
than 10 per cent available for trade purposes. The others had to be 
uncorked; and of the ten per cent one-half were returned to the cellar 
after they had gone out to the trade because they became riley. 
These experiments were continued up to 1867 when Mr. De Baune, 
feeling that he had not made a success, retired from the management 
of the society's affairs, and a complete outfit of corking machinery, 
and a number of men were imported from the champagne districts. 
Those were paid high wages but they failed completely to produce a 
salable champagne. The society next brought out experts from the 
champagne districts of the Rhine, who had been educated in the 
industry. After three years' trial they too were discarded as failures. 
After this several Frenchmen were given an opportunity to make 
champagne for the society with the' same result. A party of 
Swiss were tried, but they too failed. These experiments were 
carried along up to 1877 and '78, during which period they did not 
produce as much as 1,500 cases of champagne, and the society must 
have lost up to the date of its liquidation in 1877 in the neighborhood 
of $200,000 if not more. Each of these parties upon leaving the 
Buena Vista attempted to manufacture champagne on their own 
account but without success. Mr. Haraszthy continued his experi- 
ments in private up to 1866 when he discovered the method in which 
the wine should be handled to secure a uniformity of sparkle, not 
too great nor too small. This first success was made in December, 
1867, comprising about 3o dozen. He was at that time a member of 
the firm of I. Landsberger & Co., at 528 Jackson street, and they 



TME INNER MAN 131 

were encouraged to begin operations on a large scale. Their first 
bottling was made July 6, iS6S, of 660 gallons of wine which proved 
a success. The second bottling, made July 8th of an equal quantity of 
wine was also a success. The third, on August ist, the next, August 
19th, and the next, September 5th of equal amounts were all success- 
ful, and from that day to date the champagne made by Mr. Haraszthy 
has been in the market commercially. It must not be understood 
however that all subsequent lots were a success. Far from it. New 
troubles, and new conditions continuously arose despite the aim 
of the producer to make the highest quality and many of the.se 
bottlings had to be opened and sent to the distillery as their lack of 
sparkle, or the inability to get the wine clear, unfitted them for the 
wine market. Other lots again after being turned out bright as 
crystal, in a month or two afterwards, became cloudy and unsalable. 
It is only within the last ten years that a certain uniformity from 
year to year could be obtained. 

In 1872 a German, named Lottriz, made experiments at the 
Mission, but his wines were never known to the trade. In 1872 
Cutting & Co. entered into partnership with a German chemist 
named F. Schilfer, to manufacture champagne, and met with a par- 
tial success, putting 100 cases on the market. But three years after- 
wards they abandoned the enterpri.se with a loss of over $50,000. 
There is champagne made by the natural process of blending wines 
together, and having them acquire their sparkle in the bottle by the 
proper fermentation of the wine itself without any artificial aid. 
There is also a process of making so-called champagne by the gen- 
eration of carbolic acid gas, the use of sulphuric acid, marble dust, 
etc. , but these methods are all meretricious. Natural champagne is 
necessarily high priced, being kept in the cask for two years and two 
and four years in the bottle, thus requiring large capital, and large 
space to handle. The operation of making natural champagne is as 
follows: The wine is selected from either dijBferent grapes, or from dif- 
ferent cellars; and mingled together to make a blend whose purpose is 
to increase the quality of the wine, such as bouquet, flavor, taste, acid- 
ity, body and smoothness which are not found together in one grape 
or in one vineyard. In this consists the art of the manufacturer by 
which he succeeds or fails. It requires great discrimination — this 
mingling of different varieties of grape, or the grapes of different 
vineyards. Two good wines brought together in the wrong propor- 
tion frequently produce a bad wine, but no two bad wines however 
brought together will produce a good wine. 

Ghiradelli's Breakfast Cocoa. The Best 



132 XHE INNER NIAN 

The greatest difficulty is encountered by the manufacturer in 
creating a sufficient sparkling quality, without bursticg an unusually 
large percentage of bottles. The loss by breakage and leakage at 
Haraszth}' & Co.'s is about i6 percent. If the wine does not sparkle 
sufficiently it is opened out and sent to the distillery for distillation. 
This frequently occurs after the wine has been a year in bottle. The 
blend once agreed upon and made, the wine is claritied once or twice 
and then bottled. If there should not be a sufficiency^ of sweetness 
left in the grape j uice, a small amount of rock candy is added because 
the sparkling quality is dependant in a greater or lesser degree to the 
larger or smaller quantity of saccharine left undecomposed in the 
wine at the time of bottling. If the saccharine is too abundant the 
bottles break in greater number. If too little, there is not sufficient 
sparkle to satisfy the consumer. The wine is then kept in a warm 
temperature for a few days, until the sparkle and breakage declares 
itself It is then removed and piled in lots of from 4,000 to 8,000 bot- 
tles, and kept thus for 20 months. They are afterwards removed to 
racks, head down and each bottle is shaken with an oscillating motion 
every da)^ The sediment is thus accumulated on the cork, and then 
the bottle is removed to what is known as the disgorging. she p, where 
six men complete the wine for market. One brings the bottles, the 
disgorger removes the sediment, one sweetens the wine, another 
recorks the bottle, and two retie the strings and fasten the corks 
down. During the period of violent fermentation there is a pressure 
evolved on the inside of the bottle of about no pounds to the square 
inch. It is by this pres.sure that the disgorger is enabled, by rais- 
ing the bottle upward after the string is cut to eject the sediment at 
the proper moment, and leave the clear wine. All genuine champagnes 
after the removal of the sediment, whether made in the United 
States or in the champagne districts of France, have an addition of 
sweetening added to them. The sweetening or syrup is generally 
composed of the purest form of rock candy or crystallized sugar, dis- 
solved in old and naturally high flavored white wine. The French 
usually add to this syrup some special flavoring of their own. Each 
bottle is hand ed about 250 times before it is ready for the market. 

An erroneous opinion prevails about the age at which champagne 
attains perfection, some believing that after 3 years sparkling wines 
deteriorate. Such is not the case. Champagne, if properly kept, 
' maintains its sparkling quality with full force up to and beyond 20 
years. Redding, the great English authority on wines, claims that 
the best champagne he has drank has been 40 years in bottle, and a 



THE INNER. NIAN 133 

leading expert testified that the best wine he ever drank had been 
laying in the cellars of Ay for 36 years. Champagne should be 
drunk from thin glasses and should remain on ice at least 24 hours 
previously, but no ice should be put in the wine. The Eclipse cham- 
pagne made by Arpad Haraszthy & Co. has obtained wide popular- 
ity in the United States, and is highly esteemed in Europe where 
this demand is ever increasing. 



A Napa Soda Lemonade is a Luxury 



CHAPTER XVI 




The Dikt ov Brain-Workers— The Kind op Food Requirhd by Brain- 

Workers — Great Thinkers Usuai.i.y Liberai, Eaters — 

Thb Diet of Athi,etes 

RAIN-WORKERS — whether literary, profes- 
sional, or business men — need the best of lood, 
served in the most agreeable manner, and in 
variety and abundance, and for the following 
reasons: Eabor of the brain exhausts the system 
more than labor of the muscles. According to 
the estimates of Prof. Houghton, three hours 
of hard study produce more important changes 
of tissue than a whole day of muscular labor. 
Whether this statement is mathematically accurate or not, we do 
certainly know bj'' experience that a few hours of mental labor is 
more exhaustive than a whole day of muscular labor to those who 
are accustomed to such toil. No literary man can spend as many 
hours at his work as the day laborer. While the mason, the car- 
penter and the haymaker work their ten hours a day with only 
moderate fatigue, the professional man is wearied by three hours or 
four hours of severe consecutive thought. This exhaustion that we 
feel after hard study is the result and concomitant of the waste of 
tissue. This waste of tissue is supplied by food. If the theory of 
the correlation and conservation of forces be carried to its logical 
conclusion, it Would seem that for every mental act there is a 
corresponding expenditure of force which bears a direct ratio to the 
thought involved, and that unless the proper force is supplied, thought 
becomes impossible just as steam is impossible without heat, or 
motion without some force to produce that motion. Phosphorus, 
which is a prominent ingredient of the brain, is deposited in the 
urine after mental labor, and recent experiments have shown that 
by the chemical examination of these pho.sphates deposited, it is 
possible to determine whether an individual has been chiefly using 
his brain or muscles. That the brain is the organ of mind is now 

134 



THE INNER NIAN 



135 



as well established as an}^ fact of science. The brain, being the 
noblest organ of the body, receives a greater proportional amount of 
blood than any other part and is of course correspondingly affected 
by the quantity and quality of the nutrition. It has been estimated 
that one-fifth of the blood goes to the brain, though its average weight 
is not more than fifty ounces or about one fortieth the weight of the 
body. Brain-workers as a class are more active than mechanics or 
laborers. The literary man need never be idle, for his thinking 
powers — the tools of his trade — are always at hand. Bulwer in his 
Caxtoniana mentions this fact as a great advantage that the literary 
man has over all others. The mechanic has a definite task assigned 
for certain hours and when that is over he feels free to rest. On the 
other hand, the powers of thought and composition are only inter- 
rupted by sleep, and the intensity of the labor is measured by our 
mental discipline and powers of endurance. Brain-workers exercise 
more or less all the other organs of the body as well as the brain. 
Even the most secluded book-worm must use his muscles to a greater 
or less extent and the great majority of literary and professional 
men are forced to take S3'stematic and vigorous exercise in order to 
keep their brains in good working order. On the other hand, the 
uneducated and laboring classes, while the)- toil with their hands as 
their daily necessities require, are apt to let their brains lie idle and 
thus the most important part of their nature undergoes comparatively 
little change except that which comes from time and disuse. If the 
brain could be used exclusively without any exercise of the muscles 
then the diet of brain-workers might be pretty exclusively confined 
to those articles which contain fat, salts, and phosphorus of which 
the brain is composed. But it is impossible to live by the brain 
alone ; hence the necessity of a wide variety of food for the brain- 
working classes, of a quantity and quality adapted to nourish the 
whole body with special reference to the nervous system. 

The best food for the brain is fat and lean meat, eggs and the 
cereals. 

It is now a matter of fact that brain- workers eat a better quality 
and larger quantity of food than mechanics and laborers. How is 
it with the diflferent nationalities ? We have seen that the ruling 
people of the world, who have from time to time shaped the destiny 
of humanity, have always, so far as can be ascertained, been liberal 
feeders. This remark applies, of course, only to the ruling classes 
in these nationalities and not to the slave or peasant class who lived 
with them, but were not of them. But of the patrician or governing 



Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



^36 THE INNER IvIAN 

orders of society — the leaders of llie world in legislation, in war, in 
commerce, in science and literature — it is pre-eminently true. The 
dominant classes among the Babylonians, the Persians and especially 
the Romans were free and luxurious in their habits of eating although 
in those days there was less variety of food than at present. The 
Greeks, the most intellectual of ancient nations, were formidable 
eaters and their repasts were greatly prolonged. Of the Romans, it 
has been said, that no people were ever so devoted to the pleasures 
of the table. Among modern nations the greatest eaters are the 
English, the Germans and the Americans — the ruling people of our 
civilization. The diet of the Spaniards and Italians is notably less 
and substantial than that of the English and Germans, just as their 
brains are less active and original. 

Our standards, by which we measure nations and individuals, 
are too low and too narrow. One protests against the degrading 
spirit of materialism that would estimate a man by his weight on 
the scales or by the number of years that it takes him to rust out ; 
as if the human mind, with all its wonderous capacities, was created 
only to be imprisoned as long as possible in a gross tabernacle of 
flesh and nations were to be estimated, not by the thoughts they 
evolve or the deeds of glory and usefulness they accomplish, but by 
the amount of adipose tissue their indolence enables them to hoard, 
or by the length of time it takes them to die. 

Even the most ignorant hog-raisers studiously consider the 
quality as well as the quantity of pork that the different kinds of 
feed produce. And shall hygienists, in their estimate of the effects 
of diet on humanity, only look at the number of pounds, avoirdupois, 
that result from the different systems or the number of years that the 
body can endure them ? We argue that because the porters of the 
East, the native Hindoos, the Chinese and the Irish peasantry eat 
little or no meat and are well and muscular and capable of a good 
measure of physical endurance ; therefore, all people in all climates 
and at all seasons of the year should be vegetarians, and thus the 
world would be much better than it now is. The flaw in this 
reasoning is that it takes too low and material a view of humanity 
and ignores entirely the fact that although the body can be sustained 
and kept from dissolution for a considerable period on simple fruits, 
cereals and the like, j'et in the history of the world, nothing very 
great or good has ever been bequeathed to humanity by a nation of 
vegetarians. With some exceptions the same facts will apply to 
individuals. The great majority of the leading thinkers and actors 



THE) INNER IVIAN 137 

of tbe world — the philosophers, writers, orators, legislators, warriors^ 
inventors and creators of new eras in every department of human 
thought — have fed their brains with a greater or less abundance 
and variety of animal as well as vegetable food. We have in 
biography and general observation sufBcient data from which to 
form a satisfactory and reliable opinion. Gcethe was a vigorous 
performer at the table and even to an active old age retained his 
fondness for good dishes. Says Lewes, his biographer, "His 
appetite was immense ; even on days when he complained of not 
being hungry he ate much more than most men. Puddings, sweets 
and cakes were always welcome. He was fond of his wine, and 
drank daily his two or three bottles." 

On this diet and amid great literary activity prolonged to 
extreme old age, he lived to see his eighty-third year. Of Peter 
the Gveat, Marmontal says, that " He dined at eleven o'clock and 
supped at eight ; an astonishing eater and drinker — two bottles of 
beer, the same quantity of wine, half a bottle and sometimes a whole 
one of brandy, at each of his two meals were scarcely sufficient 
for him — without reckoning the liquors and refreshments that he 
swallowed at intervals." Studying with greater or less minuteness 
the biographies of nearly one thousand of the greatest thinkers of all 
nations and ages, j^ou find that aside from religious enthusiasts of 
some of the ancient philosophers who led very calm inactive lives, 
very few were known to be abstemious. 

Dr. Johnson was a gormandizer, and when indulging in his 
favorite dishes, this Great Mogul of literature displayed his eager- 
ness by manifestations of satisfaction that are supposed to be peculiar 
to children and some of the lower animals. When Charles Lamb 
was boarding, he sometimes invited friends to dine with him, paying 
the landlady a small sum. He observed that when Wordsworth 
dined with him, the landlady charged a six-pence more, and one day 
remonstrated with her on the injustice of such discriminations, at 
the same time adding that Wordsworth was a great poet. "Dont 
know about the poet, ' ' replied the landlady, ' ' but I know he is a great 
eater." The popular conception that those who think much, eat 
little, is derived from the twofold fact that some of the great philos- 
ophers have been comparatively abstemious, and from the fact that 
nearly all hard brain-workers care little for their meals when they are 
in the midst of severe tasks. In great crises they abstain perhaps for 
several days, as did Elliott, the defender of Gibraltar, but pay-day 
comes, and they must replenish their wasted tissues or suffer the 



Napa Soda Water Cures Dyspepsia 



138 THE INNER MAN 



penalty. There is little doubt that some authors have shortene- 
their lives by hai)itual underfeeding. One can best arrive at the 
truth in this matter by comparing different bodies or classes of men, 
and not bj' selecting individual cases. Students in academies and 
colleges, provided they are in good health, study faithfully, and do 
not exhaust themselve.« by vices, eat more than young men of sim- 
ilar ages, in ships, and behind the plow, and far more heartily than 
mechanics and artisans. None who board students, whether aca- 
demical, collegiate or professional, ever regard them a.^ light eaters. 
Those exceptions who worrj'^ or fret themselves into nervous debility, 
or who destroy themselves by vices, only prove the rule. Clergymen 
are also large eaters. Whatever their theories may be, they praclicallj'' 
acknowledge that tho.se who work with their brains need better 
nourishment than those who allow their intellects to be idle. 

It is possible for some temperaments to stud}' hard, for a limited 
season, on a spare diet. There have been and are now hard students 
in our colleges who, either from necessity or more likely from 
mistaken notions of hygiene, restrict themselves to a meager and 
unsatisfying allowance. With all such persons the evil result that 
must follow such a course, as surely as night follows day, is surely 
a question of time. There are those whose constitutions are so 
hardy, whose reserve powers are .so abundant, that they can live 
for a considerable time on their capital. The}- can ri.se early and sit 
up late, and toil hard over their books, achieving the highest success 
in .scholarship and literature, on an insufficient and unnutritious diet. 
But pay-day must come with them just as surely as with the poorest 
and feeblest, only it may be longer deferred. 

To recapitulate in a few words: the diet of brain-workers .should 
be of a large variety, delicately served, abundantly nutritious, of 
which fresh meat, lean and fat, should be a prominent constituent. 
In vacations, or whenever it is desired to rest the brain, fish may, to 
a certain extent take the place of meat. We should select those 
articles that are most agreeable to our individual tastes, and, so far 
as possible, we .should take our meals amid pleasant social surround- 
ings. In great cri.ses that call for unusual exertion, we should rest 
the stomach, that for the time the brain may work the harder ; but 
the deficiency of nutrition ought always to be supplied in the first 
interval of repose. 

In athletic training the object is to reduce the fat, increase the 
size and hardness of the muscles, and the power of endurance 
Trainers have experimented with a variety of systems of diet in 



m 



THE INNER NIAN 139 

order to see what was best adapted' to co-operate with severe muscular 
exercise, and regular habits to secure their ends. It has been found 
that the best bill of fare for athletes of all kind — gymnasts, oarsmen, 
etc., during training, contains the following articles: 

I,ean and rare beef or mutton. 

Stale flour bread. 

Potatoes and other vegetables in moderate quantities. 

Tea, coffee, and beer or wine in very moderate quantities. 

This diet table, it will be observed, contains little or no fat, and 
little starch or sugar, and therefore is not calculated to feed the fatty 
tissue. Its leading element is beef and mutton. Between beef and 
mutton there is little to choose. The quantity of tea and coffee 
allowed is always limited — usually not more than a single cup at 
each meal — and of the two, tea seems to be generally preferable to 
coffee. Of ale or wine, a glass or two are all that is allowed. 

Weston, in his great walk, ate those articles that best suited 
him, but used no alcohol. The query may be raised whether the 
vertigo from which he sufifered, and which caused his failure, might 
not have been prevented if he had taken some wine or beer, instead 
of tea and coffee. King, an English athlete, in training, took for his 
breakfast two lean, rare mutton chops, stale bread and one cup of 
tea without sugar; for dinner, one or one and a quarter pounds of 
beef or mutton, toast or stale bread, a little potato or other vege- 
tables, half-a-pint of old ale, or a glass or two of sherry, or one cup 
of tea without sugar, or eggs and dry toast; for supper, half-a-pint 
of oatmeal porridge or half-a-pint of old ale. 

The effect of this exclusive diet is to reduce the fat, in some 
cases quite rapidly, and thus it answers the purpose ; but, if con- 
tinued too long, it becomes wearisome and injurious. When athletes 
return to the usual habits of eating they sometimes rapidlj^ increase 
in weight. In their experiments in dieting, athletes have made most 
serious blunders. At the time of the International Boat-race between 
Harvard and Oxford, the American crew ate largely of vegetables, and 
relatively less of meat than the English crew. If the Americans had 
allowed they rivals to prescribe a dietary for them, they could 
scarcely have made a worse selection. There is little question that 
the race was lost to the Americans on account of their unfortunate 
system of athletic training. They failed not for lack of native 
strength, in which they were superior to their rivals, but from lack 
of staying power. On what principle our oarsmen persisted in con- 
fining themselves to a diet which all experience has shown is 



Indigestion Dies where Napa Soda Lives 



l-iO THE INNER MAN 

unfitted to sustain amid the severest muscular exertion, in our 
climate at least, we never could well understand. We suspect, 
however, that it was inspired by some of the many popular treatises 
on diet by which ignorant writers have wrought so much evil. 

" Good wine is a good familiar creature, if it be well used; — 
Exclaim no more against it !" 

Othello. — Shakespeare. 

J. GUNDLACH & GO'S famous Table- Wines have succeeded 
in establishing for themselves a most creditable recognition. Over 
thirty years' experience and skillful efforts have slowl}^ crystallized 
into gratifying results. The vineyard property of the firm, located 
near the old townsite of Sonoma, where, in early days, the emblem 
of liberty, the old historical Bear flag was first hoisted, is one of the 
most favored wine districts of our State. When the possibilities of 
California as a wine producing country were still in its infancy, J. 
Gundlach, the pioneer brewer of San Francisco, undertook the then 
(1858) remarkable task of planting and cultivating 500 acres in 
-grapevines. Success followed his enterprise for years, but the phyl- 
loxera has .since destroyed every vestige of the original plantation, 
and the vineyard had to be re-established on the roots of the Ameri- 
can resistant vines at enormous expense. The best known varieties 
of phylloxera-proof vines have been successfully grafted and propa- 
gated with acknowledged specialties of European vintages including 
the delicious Johannisberg and famous Medoc tj^pes. The vineyards 
of J. Gundlach & Co., well known under the name of " Rhinefarm, 
Sonoma," are once again in a flourishing condition and yielding their 
golden and purple juice in old-time generosity. 

California Sauternes, Hocks, Burgundies, and Medocs. of untar- 
nished purity and acknowledged merit, are sold by the firm at rea- 
sonable prices. Their salesroom and retail cellars are at the corner 
of Market and Second streets. Their large shipping-warehou.ses and 
wholesale cellars 

"BACCHUS WINE VAULTS," 

with a storage capacity of two million gallons, are located at 438-444 
Bryant street, near Third. Their principal Eastern Depot is at 52 
Warren street, New York. 

We feel justified in classifying the products of Gundlach's 
"Rhinefarm" among the best vintages in California, and will not 
hesitate to recommend the same to connoisseurs and admirers of a 
real fine, old. ripe table-wine, for their well deserved standard of 
excellence and superiority. 



THE INNKR. IS/IAIS. 141 

BEN. J. GOLDMAN.— The pleasures that dwell in tobacco are 
infinite. It soothes the weary soul, no matter in what form it may- 
be enjoyed, it promotes digestion, and dissipates care. Ben. J. Gold- 
man, 817 Market street (the Academy building), is a cigar expert 
of the first water. Mr. Goldman has been a long time in the business, 
and thoroughly understands the nature of tobacco in all its moods and 
tenses. Now there is much to be said about the disposition of those 
who use the weed. Not a few enter Mr Goldman's handsome emporium 
quite undecided about the exact quality of the cigar in which they 
are about to indulge. If immediately after dinner, they imagine a 
strong, high flavored cigar would meet the exigencies of the case. 
Yet again, they fear that it might be too much for their nerves. In 
affairs of this nature Goldman decides for them, and provides them 
with the happy medium which is just what they wanted, though not 
previously aware of that fact. Goldman keeps the finest brands of 
imported cigars, at all prices, and also a good line of the domestic 
article — a nice smoke, at cheaper rate, of sound, wholesome tobacco. 
His importations are from the most famous houses of Havana, and 
the result is that those who once cross Goldman's threshold come 
again and again when the cigar appetite is upon them. 



Ladies Drink Napa Soda for Complexion 




CHAPTER XVII 

Dietary of British Soldiers in Time op Peace — A Model Diet — How Food 
May Be Adulterated — Poisonous Water 



^;_HE object aimed at in the construction of dietaries 
for prisons, work-houses, and for soldiers and 
sailors, is to obtain the best possible variety of 
nutriment for the character and duties of the class 
for whom it is designed, at the least possible 
expense. For those who are their own masters 
in all respects, and have tolerably abundant means, dietaries are 
useless. Let them select of all the wide range what suits them in 
quality and in quantity, and they cannot go far wrong. But for the 
classes mentioned, dietaries of some kind— good or bad — are essential; 
and it is the part of science to search out the lessons derived from 
experience and apply them to the wants of the poor, unfortunate 
and the dependent. It is almost needless to say that the range 
of sustaining diet is exceedingly wide, and that any dietary 
based on an average of this kind must be much too little for 
some, and little, or perhaps a good deal, too much for others. 
Experiment shows that in prison men cannot live on one pound 
of bread a day; and that the poor needle- women can barely keep 
from dying on a diet of one and a half pounds of bread and one 
ounce of dripping daily. It is found by experiment, that in prisons 
those who work must have more to eat than those who are idle. 
Dr. Edward Smith has shown that for the adult male operatives of 
Lancashire, two pounds and four ounces of bread sustain life; but 
he regards this as a famine diet. In regard to the quality of food for 
dietaries, it has been demonstrated by Playfair, Voit and Pettenkofer 
that an average adult, at work, requires: of nitrogenous matter, 
5.22 oz.; of carbonaceous matter, 22.38 oz. When perfectly idle, 
half of this may suffice. In regard to the proportion of the nitro- 
genous to the carbonaceous matter, it has been estimated that one 
part of the former to five or six of the latter is about correct; but this 
proportion is open to great modifications, and for a limited period it 

144 



THE INNER NIAN l^i 

is possible to work hard, with brain or muscle, on a diet that is 
exclusively carbonaceous — starch, sugar, oils and fat; or on one that 
is exclusively nitrogenous, as meats. But the appetite, which 
knows more and better than any of us about these matters, soon 
calls for variety, and will soon have it, if it can be obtained. In the 
construction of dietaries, where it is not designed to punish by star- 
vation, it is necessary to adopt a very liberal estimate, so that every 
individual shall be sure to have enough of both departments of food. 
Women require one-tenth less than men for the threefold reason — 
that they weigh less, that their brains are about one-tenth less than 
that of man and because they do less work. The dietary of the 
British soldier on home service fairly represents the military dietaries 
of Europe and America. It is as follows: meat, 1 2 oz. ; bread, 24 oz. ; 
potatoes, 16 oz.; other vegetables, 8 oz.; coffee, 0.33 oz.; tea, 0.16 oz. ; 
sugar, 1.33 oz.; milk, 3.25 oz.; salt, 0.25 oz. — total, 65.32 oz. 
A model diet for this climate, and for adult males of average health, 
.should contain about thirty-five ounces of dry food, composed of 
about one-half or one-third water; three or four ounces of flesh- 
forming, and twelve or fifteen ounces of heat-giving material. In 
the so-called heat-giving materials the proportion of carbo-hydrates 
to fat should be about three to one. The amount of carbon should 
vary between five and ten ounces, according to the season, labor, etc. 
Vegetables and fruits are here included. Water to the extent of 
about fifty to one hundred ounces, according to sea.son, etc. It has 
been estimated that the body, on the average, needs nine parts of fat, 
twenty-two parts of flesh-forming substances, and sixty-nine parts 
of sugar and starch. Kxperience shows that this proportion is not 
far from correct. The intuitions of mankind have long discovered 
this fact and acted upon it. When any article of food is deficient, 
we supplement it by something that will compensate for these 
deficiencies, if we can get it. A man in his own country will 
take about from i-26th to i-2oth of his weight of solid or liquid 
food; that is, from 80 to 120 ounces by weight. The proportion 
of solid to liquid is 1:2 or 1:1 ; but varies exceedingly. In all 
solid food there is a greater or less percentage of water. Eliminating 
this, we find that the average Englishman takes of dry food from 
22 oz. to 23 oz.; of water, from 60 oz. to 90 oz. Dr. Dobell has pre- 
pared the following normal diet tables, that are perhaps as reliable 
as any. They are reliable so far as they accord with experience, and 
must, of course, be varied greatly by sea.son, temperature, occupation, 
etc. It has been estimated that the average consumption of dry food 

I. M. 10 .. _- - . _. 

Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



1*6 THK INNER M:AN 

for men, in health, is from 700 to 750 pounds a year, or about two 

pounds daily, with five or six pounds of water. Food for twenty- 
four hours — 

No. 1 O8. No. 2 Oz. 

Meat, poultry or game... 6 Bread IS 

Fish 4 Cheese 3'^ 

Bread 10 Bacon 3 

Potatoes : 8 Sugar l}:j 

Rice 2 Milk o' 

Sugar 2^ Chocolate 20 1 

Butter 2>^ Tea 21 

Milk (liquid) 5 Water 20 

Coffee " 16 

Tea " 16 Total 'J-2 

Water " 17 

Total 89 

No. 3 Oz. No. 4 Oz. 

Oatmeal 16 Bread 25 



Milk 22 Cheese 

Butter 1% Butter 

Sugar % Water 60 



•>;+ 



Water 49 

Total 893.< 



Total 9o;4f 



It will be observed that all these tables contain all the necessary 
variety and quantity of food. The object of adulterating food is 
threefold, i. To increase its weight or size. 2. To lessen the 
expense of manufacture. 3. To give it attractive color and taste. 
When a dealer adds a substance to food for any of these purposes, 
the main object is the same — to make money b}' fraud. Bakers' 
bread is adulterated with potatoes, beans, rice, r5'emealand cornmeal, 
all of which are harmless and nutritious, and with alum to give it 
superior lightness and whiteness. Flour is also adulterated with 
clay, bone dust and carbonate of magnesia. Arrow-root of the first 
quality is adulterated with cheaper roots and starches. Milk is 
chiefly diluted with water, but sometimes burnt sugar, salt, bi-car- 
bonate of soda, gum, flour, sugar or starch are added. Butter is 
adulterated with lard, water and with a larger quantity of salt than 
is needed to preserve it ; and lard itself is, in turn, adulterated with 
water and salt. Sugar is adulterated for weight with lead and iron, 
and refined sugar by wheat flour. The adulterations that are most 
injurious are those used in giving color and taste to confectionery. 
Our popular candies are adulterated for bulk and weight with starch 
and flour, which are harmless enough, and with clay, chalk and 



THE INNER NIAN 147 

plaster of Paris. Among other substances used for giving color and 
so forth to confectionery, are cochineal, Prussian blue, indigo, 
ultramarine, carbonates of copper and lead, cobalt, verdigris, gamboge, 
Brunswick green, arsenite of copper, ochre powders. Among the 
condiments, vinegar is adulterated with water, spirits of nitre, burnt 
sugar, fusel oil and acetic acid ; ginger with Cheyenne pepper, tur- 
meric and corumeal ; Cheyenne pepper with brick-dust, salt, red 
ochre, cornmeal, red lead and Venetian red, rice and cinnabar ; 
mustard, with flour, salt and turmeric ; cinnamon is adulterated with 
cassia, and this in turn with sugar and wheat flour and arrow-root; 
curr}^ with lead, mercury, iron, salt, rice and potato flour. Salts of 
copper are sometimes added to pickles to improve their color. It 
will be seen that aside from coloring matter of confectionery, most of 
the adulterations of positive food, as of stimulants and narcotics, are 
comparatively harmless and do more injury to the moral sense of the 
trader than to the health of the consumer. Probably no article of 
food is so frequently poisonous to individuals as water. Analysis o£ 
the principal drinking waters shows that most of them contain 
poison ; that perfectly pure water, in which no poison can be found, 
is usually unpalatable. Whether the earthly ingredients of our 
drinking waters exert a poisonous influence depends on the individ- 
ual temperament, the habits and state of the health. Waters which 
contain a variety of mineral poisons are oftentimes regarded as 
medicinal ; and nearly all the popular springs derive their popularity 
from the mineral substances which they contain. The chief ingre- 
dient of water that exerts a markedly poisonous efi'ect in our large 
cities is lead, which comes from the pipes ; there is little doubt that 
the use of lead pipes is always attended with more or less danger, 
but a certain amount of lead can be taken without injury. In sus- 
ceptibility to the poison of lead, individuals widely vary. Dr. Angus 
Smith says that some persons are affected by a fortieth of a grain, 
t)thers by one-tenth. Dr. Parkes regards any quantity as unsafe. 
Experiments have shown that the cochituate water is never free from 
lead ; that the pipes which convey hot water are more rapidly cor- 
roded than those that convey cold water and yet ' " no well authen- 
ticated case of bad poisoning ' ' from the Boston water has come to 
the knowledge of the State Board of Health, "although lead pipe is 
almost universally used for distribution." It is not improbable, 
however, that many obscure cases of nervous diseases are caused by 
the slow action of lead taken daily into the system in the water. 
Water taay also acquire poisonous properties from the contents of 



L 



Do you Drink ? Then Napa Soda is your Tipple 



l-iS THE; INNER MAN 

sewers, cess-pools and so forth, or from substances that are thrown 
into wells and cisterns or from animals that fall into and are drowned 
in them. 

JOHN L. BEARDS' WINERY.— The Marciana Vineyard at 
Warm Springs, Alameda County, owned and cultivated by Mr. 
John L. Beard, contains two hundred acres of that rolling Mission 
land, the soil of which is so admirably adapted for the growth of 
every description of European grape. Mr. Beard, who has traveled 
extensively among the vinelands of the old countries, has made the 
study of viticulture an absorbing pursuit, and has succeeded in 
producing some oi the best wines grown on Californii soil. Among 
the varieties from his cellars may be named the Marciana, Matador, 
Burgundy, Zinfandel, Sweet Muscat, Port, Golden Chasselas, and 
other brands. 

It is claimed that wine produced in vineyards in the vicinity of 
the bay receives the properties of age much sooner than wine grown 
in the interior. Certain it is that the output of the Marciana vineyard 
has all the richness of color and the mellow quality of a very old 
wine, and is most popular among the epicurean wine consumers of 
this city, where it is handled by the leading wine dealers. 

An enthusiastic lover of Marciana has celebrated some of its 
qualities in the following epigrammatic verse : 

When at the board ruy glass I raise 

With Marciana brimming over, 
I drink, and gleeful chant its praise, 

Even as the passion wearied lover 
With lips that breathe love's ardent sighs 
Will pledge in wine his lady's eyes. 

I pledge in wine my lady's eyes 

For she is ever near me. 
Her ruby lips, those lips I prize 

Are ever by to cheer me. 
Ah, Marciana, queen of mine 
Thou art my love, imperial wine. 

The color, flavor and body of these wines cannot be excelled in 
any other portion of the State. They are handled with the utmost 
care, and only the really perfect vintages are ever put on the market. 
Of the Marciana vineyard forty acres are devoted to the culture 
of the table grape. Among these varieties are the Cornichon, the 
Black Ferara, the Flaming Tokay, Verdel, Rose of Peru, Muscat 



TME INNER NIAN 149 

and Emperor. These are shipped to the fruit markets of the East, 
where the demand for them is always increasing, showing the high 
apprecialion in which they are held. It is a remarkable fact that 
the old missionaries had the faculty of selecting the best soils for the 
cultivation of the grape. To this, combined with the energy and 
skill Mr. Beard has exercised in the production and handling of his 
wines, may be attributed the reputation the Marciana Vineyard now 
enjoys in this State. 

GRAND HOTEL SALOON.— The Grand Hotel Saloon, 
Edward Fay proprieter, is noted not alone for the gOod things it 
furnishes in eating and drinking, but also for the works of art that 
hang upon its walls. This epigrammatic sentence does not contain 
a particle of exaggeration. It is well known that in the saloons of 
this city are found some of the rarest and most valuable paintings 
on the coast. Mr. Fay has ever been on the alert to secure works of 
the celebrated artists of the old world, regardless of cost. 

The first impression the stranger receives on entering the Grand 
Hotel saloon, is the extreme taste and richness of its decorations. 
The floor is of the finest marble, and a bewildering array of the 
most beautiful crystals is reflected from a superb mirror extending 
the entire length of the bar. The gran^ life-size paintings on the 
walls will next command his attention. "Cynthia and the Doves," 
a masterpiece by Lionel Royer, is a noble nude figure, the drawing 
and pose of which is the admiration of all critics. "The Dream," 
by Souchon, a celebrated French artist, represents a sleeping girl, 
whose bare arms are extended in graceful abandon, and whose 
swelling bosom is but partially concealed by the drapery of the 
luxurious couch on which she reclines. The face is one of classic 
beauty, the lips are half parted, the long silken lashes lie upon the 
rounded cheek, but withal there is nothing sensual or suggestive 
about the picture. "The Surprise," a life-size nude, by I. Balla- 
joina, took a prize at the Paris Salon, and is remarkable in the 
realistic handling of the flesh tints, and the exquisite contour of the 
queenly figure. In addition to these is the "The Water Carriers," 
by A. Roufsolieu, also a salon picture, and one of rare excellence, 
and "An Early California Scene," an immense canvas by Charles 
Narjot, which for many years hung in the Crocker gallery. 
A superb bronze figure, a Japanese girl, stands upon the bar. The 
Saloon is lighted throughout with incandescent lights, and is ele- 
gantly frescoed. 

Ghiradelli's Breakfast Cocoa. The Best 



1^0 THE INNER NIAN 

So much for the art features of this handsome resort, but it 
must be remembered that while the eyes are delighted with these 
masterpieces of the painter's brush, the inner man receives special 
attention. 

Mr. Fay, himself an epicure, pays the strictest attention to the 
supplying of his patrons with the best line of wines and spirits that 
can be procured in the market. The result of this conscientious 
care is evinced in the class of gentlemen who make the Grand Hotel 
saloon their rendezvous. 

The noon lunch is another attraction. All the good things in 
season are furnished at the lunch counter in quantity, cooked and 
served in the best possible manner. Nothing is left undone to make 
the guests of the house feel that they are receiving every atten ion, 
and that the elegance of their surroundings is only a portion of the 
pleasures they enjoy. 

CALIFORNIA HOUSE. —The California House, 624-626 
California street, is a household word among the epicures of San 
Francisco. It is among the most picturesque restaurants of the City, 
cool, pleasant and sequestrated from the noise and bustle of the streets. 
Mr. Germain Pouchan, the proprietor of this highl}^ esteemed estab- 
lishment, is an expert in the art of the cuisine, and nothing is placed 
on the tables of the California House that is not worthy of the 
appreciation of the most critical. 

The wines are selected from the best brands and the service is 
absolutely faultless. A desirable rendezvous for a social banquet, a 
celebration or a quiet tete-a-tete dinner is the California House. 



A Napa Soda I/emonade is a Luxury 




CHAPTER XVIII 

Diet Modified by Sexes — Female Boarding Schools — Diet Modified by 
THE Progress of Civilization. 

[N eminent authority on the inner man is Dr. 
Beard, an Eastern scientist, from whom I have largely 
borrowed in the preparation of this volume. Speak- 
ing of the gentler sex he remarks that women are 
smaller and lighter than men, and, therefore, other 
conditions being the same, would need less quan- 
tity of nutriment. Other conditions are, however 
not the same, for in some countries woman works more, and in 
other countries less than man. 

In barbarous lands woman is the slave of man, and performs 
menial tasks ; in civilizations a little advanced, she often shares with 
him the labors of the field, shop and counting-room ; in the most 
enlightened nations woman is the toy, the companion or ornamental 
appendage to man, and in certain social states uses her brain but 
little and in trivial matters, and her muscle scarcely at all. The 
brain of woman is about one-tenth less in weight than that of man, 
and the amount of brainwork of most severe kind is incomparably 
less than that which man performs. 

Those who toil hard with the brain need a liberal supply of 
first-class nourishment. In proportion as woman thinks less than 
man in that proportion, so long as she uses her muscles but little, 
she needs less food than man. 

Observation shows that woman almost everywhere, in civilized 
lands at least, eats less than man. And in countries like the 
United States, where she is nervous and sickly and slender, she 
needs different quality of food from that which is agreeable to the 
hardier sex. The wives and daughters of farmers who, duricg the 
winter perhaps, never leave the house, and who forgetting the 
example of their mothers before them, with strange perversity 
prefer the parlor to the kitchen, the piano to the cooking stove and 

152 



THE IN]ME:R NdAN 153 

wash-tub, must not only eat less but eat diflferently from their 
husbands and brothers who toil from sun to sun in the open field. 

The diet of female boarding schools is of sufficient importance 
to entitle it to separate and special consideration, and a volume 
might well be devoted to it. Among the manifold causes of the 
delicacy and nervousness of American women, slow starvation at 
school is one of the most prominent. In obedience to the old, but 
fortunately waning, superstition that the mind can be cultivated 
only at the expense of the body, that whatever is pleasant must 
necessarily be pernicious, and that the benefits of any system of diet, 
as of exercise, is exactly in proportion to its disagreeableness. 

The managers of boarding schools have prescribed dietaries, 
that oftentimes more than neutralize the good effects of their teaching. 
Fashion has joined hands with superstition, and through fear of 
looking gross or healthy, or of incurring the horror of the disciples 
of Lord Byron, our young ladies live all their growing girlhood in 
semi-starvation, they become thin and poor, their nerves become 
painfully sensitive, and when they liiarry they give birth to starv- 
lings. All the other conditions of race, climate, season, age, sex, 
being the same, or as nearly the same as possible, the food varies 
with the temperament in a manner at once striking and mysterious. 

There are idiosyncrasies in the matter of diet that defy expla- 
nation, and probably can be understood only when the myster}^ of 
life itself is solved. This applies not only to positive but to nega- 
tive food, and to all our principal medicines. Even quinine has 
been known in a few instances to produce a peculiar and disagree- 
able eruption on the skin. Some cannot bear mutton, others are 
made ill by pear, or watermelon or cucumber. All these peculiari- 
ties are strange enough, but no more strange than other peculiarities 
of appetite or taste. Why it is that one likes tomatoes or peacheS) 
or ice-cream, or liver, or melons, or brown-bread, and another is 
indifferent to all these things, or is, perhaps, disgusted at the sight 
of them, is a problem as unsolvable as the origin of existence. 
To those who are impatient that such caprices are not explained, 
the best reply is to say that they are no more mysterious than that 
we should exist at all. One thing is clear that they must, to a 
certain extent, be abandoned, and those articles that poison any of 
us must be refused, even though they be food to all. As by long 
practice, one who at first is repelled by the odor of tobacco can 
become so accustomed to it that ten pipes or cigars are a pleasure 
and a luxury, so many varieties of ordinary nutriment can be forced 

Ghiradelli's Vanilla Chocolate. The Best 



154 THE INNER NIAN 

on the S3^stem, and the system can be gradually adapted to it, so 
that what originally was pernicious to it becomes nutritive and 
agreeable. 

The truth of this statement is demonstrated by daily experience 
of individuals and by the experience of linmanity in all parts of the 
globe. Travelers are witnesses to the truth of this statement, for 
they wear themselves to the dietetic habits of the people among 
whom they reside, and are frequently benefitted rather than injured 
by these radical changes of life. It is a part of the conditions of life, 
a part of the law of evolution, that we should be able to adapt 
ourselves to the diet that we find as much as to all other conditions 
of environment. 

In Africa some become so accustomed to the terrible forest 
poison that they can drink it by the bowlful without harm. It is 
an essential inference from all the facts that have been advanced 
relating to the eating customs of different countries that the food of 
civilization must be different in quantity and quality from that of 
barbarism. The thoughtful, cultured European or American is a 
being as different from the savage African or Australian as the 
.\fricans or Australians are different from the higher order of apes, 
and correspondingly his food must differ from that of the savage, as 
the food of the savage differs from that of the ape. Na)^ more, the 
gulf that separates Shakespere and Newton from the Papuan is 
wider than that which separates the Papuan from the gorilla and 
the chimpanzee, and therefore it is easier for the lowest order of 
human beings to live after the manner of the apes than for the 
highest order of humanity to live after the manner of savages. 
The difference between the savage and the civilized consists mainly 
in the larger, richer and finer development of the brain and nervous 
system. 

The advantage of the enlightened European or American over 
the lowest races in size of brain is great, but the advantage in 
quality of brain is far greater. This finer quality of brain in highly 
advanced races is revealed by the correlated conformation of the 
features, by the fineness and softness of the skin and hair, and by 
general sensitiveness. The trustworthy descriptions that travelers 
give us of the insensibility and coarseness of savage tribes are 
amazing, and show clearly enough that all civilization is purchased 
at the price of pain and sorrow, that all refinement has its com- 
pensations. When we read the accounts of the brutality of savages 



THE> INIMER MAN 155 

to each other we shudder, and perhaps lay aside the book v.-ith 
nausea and faintness. 

Among many African tribes the feeling of love between nian 
and wife, as we understand it, is not known ; and it is as customary 
for husbands to flog their wives as among us to kiss them. Whips 
made of hippopotamus hide are made for this special purpose, and 
if a husband forgets to flog his wife her relatives complain that she 
is badly treated. This custom prevails among a large number of 
barbarous and semi-barbarous races, and in different parts of the 
world ; and the custom of flogging or bambooing, and other, vise 
pounding the body for slight ofl'ences, is common to all except the 
best cultured nations. In assuming, as most of us do, that these 
apparently cruel processes inflict anything like the amount of pain 
on the coarse and brutal people on whom they are usually employed, 
we make a great mistake. They probably suffer less from those 
hideous tortures than we do from reading an account of them. 

Parkyns says that the coolness with which the Abyssinians 
receive the punishments inflicted on them by their Turkish governors 
is wonderful ; and he rightly attributes this coolness not to mental 
endurance but to physical incapacity to be pained. Hundreds of 
blows even aged culprits receive without ever crying out. For 
a trifling reward they would be willing to take five hundred 
blows with a lash. Still more remarkably their insensibility is 
proved by the voluntary treatment they give themselves or each 
other. Their duels, which are engaged in by young men on the 
slightest possible pretext, are conducted by a hippopotamus hide, 
which makes furrows in the skin and draws blood with every stroke. 

An Abyssinian belle gashes her body in order to raise beautiful 
scars, which are there considered ornamental. For bracelets they 
tie a corrosive root around the waist which eats into the flesh and 
raises a perfect band as thick as one's finger, and probably this 
causes less pain to her than the mere pressure of an artificial bracelet 
on the growing arm of an American maiden. 

The stolidity of the North American Indians under tortures 
that are apparently cruel, and the coolness with which the Hindoo 
swings by hooks in his flesh, rolls on the ground for long journeys 
and over rough roads, and commits various and horrid acts of 
religious devotion are quite familiar, and may all be reasonably 
explained. 

The African negro when he wishes to break a stick breaks it 
over his own head instead of his knee, as is the custom with us. 



Napa Soda Water Cures Dyspepsia 



156 THK INNER MAN 

Tj;en again, amon^^ many wild people, child-bearing, wliicli makes 
a modern woman an invalid for days, and weeks, and mouths, is 
usually all over in from half to three-quarters of an hour, and is not 
attended with any cries or tears, and the mother immediately 
resumes her menial duties. To a less degree than the same holds 
good of other nations. It is clear enough also that the erratic 
customs of the early Christians and mediaeval ages, the protracted 
floggings of our navies, the barbarous tortures of inquisition and 
the hideous civil punishments of various degrees of past centuries, 
caused immeasurably less actual suffering than they would if 
inflicted on the present descendants of those sufferers. 

We have onl}^ to go back one hundred or one hundred and fifty 
years to find in England lunatics treated as criminals, and punished 
with whips and blows and chains; women publicly flogged at the 
whipping post, branded with hot irons and driven at the cart tail, 
thumbs tied with whip-cord, both sexes and tender ages hung for 
various offenses so frequently and so publicly that London of the 
eighteenth century has been rightly termed "the city of the gallows," 
duels occurring continually and for the slightest pretexts ; men and 
women taking part in public sports with the cudgel and broadsword, 
bear and bull baiting, boxing and cock-fighting. 

In nearly all barbarous nations woman is the slave of man, and 
performs the most toilsome and menial tasks, but in this position 
her positive sufferings have probably been much over-estimated. 
The modern wife not unlikely experiences keener distress, to her at 
least, from anxiety about the servants who pretend to do her work. 
Even verj^ recently a great change in methods of punishment 
have been inaugurated. 

A schoolmaster who should flog the children of the upper circles 
of any American city, as was everywhere done in this country twenty- 
five years ago, would be dismissed the first week. The bearings 
of all these facts on the question of diet is sufficiently apparent. 

In the evolution of humanity all departments progress together 
and in harmony with each other, and no one can become refined 
much in advance of the rest. Diet, like legislation, like social 
amusement, like religion must change as the race advances in the 
directioa of refinement. The organization of the average European 
and American of the cultured classes of the present day is so much 
finer and so much more sensitive than it was one century, or even 
one-quarter of a century ago, that they cannot bear the same 
medicine, the same stimulants or narcotics, or the same ordinary 



THE INNER IMAN 157 

food that they could then. What was then appropriate and neces- 
sary and right for their coarser organizations, is for the finer 
organization that has developed with the intense brain work of our 
time suicidal or cruel. If our better classes should persist in using 
alcohol or tobacco, or pork, in the manner of our ancestors they 
would soon become exterminated. It is astonishing how savage 
and semi-savage races, and coarse, thick-skinned organizations 
everywhere can bear those stimulants and those articles of positive 
nutriment which, by the ruling classes of to-day, and especially of 
this country, must be used cautiously. 

So far as can be estimated, there are over six hundred millions 
of people — half the population of the globe — who smoke tobacco or 
opium, or both, through nearly all their waking hours. The four 
hundred millions of China — men, women and children — smoke 
almost as constantly as they breathe, and in the night if they chance 
to awake they seize a pipe and take a few whiffs. They cease to 
smoke only when they cease to live ; and when the sick man no 
longer asks for his pipe the attendants prepare for his funeral. 

Burton, speaking of the East African, says: "He drinks till 
he can no longer stand, lies down to sleep, and awakes to drink 
again. Drinking bouts are solemn things, to which the most 
important business must yield precedence. They celebrate with 
beer every event — the traveler's return, the birth of a child, and 
the death of an elephant — a laborer will not work unless beer is 
provided for him. A guest is received with a gourdful of beer, and 
among some tribes it is buried with their princes. The highest 
orders rejoice in drink, and pride themselves upon their powers of 
imbibing. The proper diet for a king is much beer and little meat. 
If a Muyamwezi be asked after eating if he is hungry he will reply 
"yes," meaning that he is not drunk. Intoxication excuses crime 
in these lands. 

Livingstone says that at Angola funerals constitute one of the 
principal recreations, and they are attended with debauchery, 
feasting and intemperance. If on these occasions a native is 
reproved for being drunk he will reply, "Why, my mother is dead," 
as though no other apology were needed. No longer ago than 1805 
it was said of the inhabitants of certain districts of Scotland that 
they experienced delight on hearing of the death of a man or 
woman because of the prospect it afforded them of getting their fill 
of whisk)' ; and men died saying "the}'- would not be happy unless 
men were drunk and fought at their funerals." 



Indigestion Dies where Napa Soda Lives 



158 THE INXER A1A.X 

Lewes saj's, in 1800 it was no unusual thing to be a "three- 
bottle man" in England or Germany. In Austria, at the beginning 
of this century, it was said that dinners would sometimes last four 
or five hours. A few centuries ago our Anglo-Norman ancestors 
began every important enterprise with banquets, many of which 
were riotous and drunken orgies ; and of the Icelanders it is said 
that in their feasts they indulged in the most unseemly exhibitions, 
and ended with throwing the bones at each other across the room. 

The ancient Grecians, according to Tacitus, never undertook 
an}^ great affair without a feast. In modern times the remains of 
this custom are preserved in the habits of business men, who discuss 
their business schemes in France at breakfast, and in England at 
dinner and in the well-known banquets of philanthropic organiza- 
tions. The Americans of the present day, of both sexes, use less 
of alcohol and less of tobacco than any other people on the face 
of the globe. There are tribes in Africa who drink their ''pombi," 
or plantain wine, from early dawn to bedtime, with a perseverance 
that puts the beer-drinking Germans far in the shade. But these 
excesses in tobacco and alcohol rarely seem to bring on diseases of 
the nervous system, such as a very small percentage of indulgence 
in these articles does with us. 

Among all those coarse races, whatever their habits of eating 
or drinking may be, insanity and paralysis are exceedingly rare 
affections. The same difference of susceptibility to stimulants in 
kind, though not in degree, is seen in contrasting the present gen- 
eration of Americans with their immediate ancestors. Few are the 
matrons of our time, among our well-to-do orders, who could smoke 
their pipes or take their snuff without immediate and serious harm ; 
and there are few men among the same classes who could take their 
daily and hourly diams in the manner of their fathers. Tlie notion 
that the greater susceptibility of the present generation to alcoholic 
liquors is due to the fact of adulteration is mostl)^ untrue, for most 
of the adulterations of wines and liquors are comparatively harmless, 
and whatever of harm comes from their use in these days must be 
charged to the alcohol they contain. 

WHEELAND & COLLINS.— That generous wine and good 
liquor, when used in moderation, gladden the heart of man, is 
admitted by all who have made a stud)^ of the serious things of this 
life. The problem remains, however, where to look for the highest 
standard of excellence in this regard. Perhaps its easiest solution 



THE INNER NIAN 159 

is to procure these pleasant adjuncts of existence from reputable 
dealers only, those whose standing in this regard is to them far 
more than any profits that might accrue from the sale of adulterated 
and inferior commodities. 

The house of Wheeland & Collins, 327 Montgomery Street and 
511 California Street, is an establishment whose history is a guar- 
antee in itself of the quality of the wines and liquors sold to the 
people of San Francisco. For years those names have been 
as familiar as household words to the good livers of this cit5\ 
Situated as this house is near the center of the business part of the 
city, in the Stevenson block, and extending through from Mont- 
gomery to Cr.lifornia Streets, it has ever commanded the most 
respectable c'ass of custom. 

Its founding dates from 1866, and its reputation has always 
continued the same. Here one may enjoy the best wines, California 
and foreign, ports, sherries, champagnes of the most famous vintages, 
the choicest old French and London dock brandies, cordials and 
rare liquors of every variety. 

The firm of Wheeland & Collins does its own importing, and 
the large cellars extending under the entire southwest corner of 
Montgomery and California Streets, are stored with an abundance 
of the finest wines and spirits. 

The refreshment counter is the resort of the epicures of the 
city. The luscious meats that rest there are without any exception 
the primest that can be obtained in the market. There is nothing 
served at the Wheeland & Collins' restaurant which is not the best 
of its kind. Everything in its season is kept in the larder, and the 
cooking is beyond criticism. Here one may get chops and beef- 
steaks cut in generous fashion, and prepared and served in the most 
admirable manner. Game, roasts, poultry, vegetables, and not 
forgetting that dainty morsel a Welsh rarebit, all that the most 
fastidious taste can desire are to be procured at this favorite resort 
of the men who are judges of and thoroughly appreciate the good 
things of life. For years the same faces have been seen under this 
roof The brightest professional men and the leading merchants have 
made this place their rendezvous. The menage is perfect. The 
utmost neatness and the most precise discipline are always main- 
tained. The service both at the lunch counter and the bar is 
beyond criticism, and is always under the immediate supervision of 
Mr. Wheeland, and no better trained staff of bar- keepers, cooks and 
waiters could be desired. The aim of the proprietors is to sustain 
a reputation made many years ago and they have succeeded. 

Ladies Drink Napa Soda for Complexion 



160 THE INXER MAN 

NEW HAMMAM BATHS.— An excellent preparation for a 
good dinner is a bath at the New Hammara, 218 Post street, Dr. A. 
M. Loryea, proprietor. Dr. Loryea's establishment is furnished with 
the most modern appliances for the enjoyment of a Turkish, Russian 
or Roman Baih, and the staff of rubbers and attendants are skillful 
and courteous. Here one can indulge in that truly oriental luxury, 
and no matter how great his fatigue, after being subjected to the 
agreeable process of the Hammam, he arises like a giant refreshed. 
The hygienic properties of these baths are widely recognized. They 
are a panacea for a large majority of the ills and inconveniences that 
afflict humanity. Dr. Loryea is a physician of long practice, and has 
devoted many years to the study of the effects of this sort of treat- 
ment upon the system. The New Hammam is open night and day, 
and quiet and order are always maintained, so the guest may enjoy 
the repose that succeeds the delicious languor of the bath. 

CONCLUSION 

In the preparation of this volume the author has received 
important assistance from Mr. Arpad Haraszthy, Mr. William WolJ0F, 
Mr. Charles Meinecke, Mr. W. B. Chapman, Mr. Charles A. Wetmore, 
Mr. Edward Palmer, and indeed nearly all those winemakers and 
importers who have recognized the utility of a book of this natire, 
and whose names appear throughout its pages. Mr. Chapman, it 
may be added, is a large importer of high-cla.ss French red wines, 
and Sauternes, the Chateau Lafite 1S74 (Barton & Guestier), Chateau 
La Tour 1S70 (Barton ct Guestier), and other celebrated wines being 
found on the menus of the leading restaurants of San Francisco. 




T> HPH SODA SPRINGS 

A Mountain Spa— 1000 feet high 

Climate Equable 

No Fogs 

Free from Malaria and cold sea air 

Health-Giving Natural Mineral Waters 

Natural Scenery Unsurpassed 

Cuisine and Service Perfect 

Comfortable Beds 

Table First Quality 

Hot and Cold Napa Soda Baths 

Swings for the Children 

Views Unequaled by any other Hotel in the World 

Two (2) trains every day in the week 

Gas and running water in every room 

All the boarders are happy 



WHY 



ARE THESE SPRINGS 

+ SO POPULAR? 



1st. 

2d. 
3d. 
4th. 
5th. 



Because NAPA SODA WATER is the best water that flows between 

earth and sky 
Because NAPA SODA WATER makes a delicious lemonade 
Because NAPA SODA WATER is the finest table water 
Because NAPA SODA WATER kills indigestion 
Because NAPA SODA WATER beats the world to SOBER UP on 



Henry W. ^^aylor 

WEST BERKELEY, ALAMEDA CO., CAL 



LUMBER. LATHS 



^i* 



«- 



SHINGLES ^^' POSTS 



Doops 


Brieks 


Sashes 


Liime 


Blinds 


Hair 


Nails 


Plaster 



Building Cement 

Harduuare Etc. 



GAR LOAD LOTS spEciArBATEs 

TELEPHONE 702 

WEST BERKELEY 



SHtRWOOD & SHERWOOD 

SOLE AGENTS FOR 
IMPORTED AND DOMESTIC FANCY GROCERIES 

IMPORTED LIQUORS, WINES ^ SPIRITS 

MOET & CHANDON-" WHITE SEAL " and '' BRUT IMPERIAL "-CHAMPAGNES 

BURKE'S Dublin Porter, (Guinness') HUNT, ROOPE, TEAGE & CD'S Cased Ports 

BASS'S English Ale, (Burke's Bottling) and Bass's SCOTCH and IRISH Whiskies in Wood 

Ale m Wood The "CARLISLE ' Bourbon of Kentucky, in Wood k Glass 

JOULE'S Stone Ale. in Hhd. and Half Hhd. HORSEY Rye Whiskey GUINNESS' Stout in Wood 

BURKE'S Irish and Scotch Whiskies HOUTIWAN'S Holland Gin HENK Waukesha Mineral Water 

BURKE'S Old Tom Gin and Jamaica Rum MEINHOLD'S Anchor Brand Eastern Cider 

SCHLITZ IVIiiwaukee Beer, Bottled and in Wood CROSSE & BLACKWELLS English Groceries 

ROSS'S " Royal " Belfast Ginger Ale, Club Soda, etc. EPPS' Cocoa COLMAN'S Mustard 

MACKENZIE k COS Cadiz Sherries and Oporto Ports CURTICE'S Preserved Meats and Fruits 

ESCHENAUER k COS, (French" Clarets and Sauternes OURKEE'S Spices, Salad Dressing, etc. 
Pure California Wines, Thoroughly Matured; Napa Valley Wines 

ALSO 

Imported Bitters, Cordials, Vermouth, Benedictine, ChartreusS, etc. Standard Brands of American Whiskies 

-WE DO BiOX CUT, RECXIFV OR. COMPOVNO 



24 North Front St. 



212 & 214 Market St. 



8 & 10 North Los Angeles St. 



PORTLAND 



SAN FRANCISCO 



LOS ANGELES 



BAKER & HAMILTON 



Manufacturers and Importers of 



■J 



n 



HflRDGUARE 




fl<§ri(:ijltural lmpl<?m<^i)ts 

MANUFACTORY 
BENICIA AGRICULTURAL WORKS 



SAN FRANCISCO 

Office, June. Market, Pine and Davis Sts. 



SACRAMENTO 
Office, Nos. 9 to 15 J St. 



Eastern Office, No. 88 Wall Street, N. Y. 






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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 422 412 7 



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